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Volvo ec330blc not starting

johnsmith7668

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Jan 17, 2022
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I have a Volvo ec330blc. Last summer It shut off and wouldn't start (just turned over) . Let sit a couple days and it started right up. Then it happened again and wouldn't start at all. I contacted a diesel mechanic and thought it might be oil sensor do to low oil. Filled oil and still no start. No smoke coming from exhaust as if NO fuel. I feel its an electrical issue. Checked all fuses and visual wiring. Contacted Ascendum they came out and diagnosed a fuel pump. Replaced fuel pump, filters, cleaned fuel lines. Still no start. Now they say its injector wiring harness. I don't have confidence with the diagnose. I don't want to keep guessing what the issue is.
 

BigWrench55

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Post your serial number and when I get to the shop tomorrow I can look up where they are. No way to test these sensors unless you have software or a oscilloscope. But the sudden shut down is a symptom of losing the position sensor. You probably was only running on one when the other went. Were you having extended cranking before it would run?
 

johnsmith7668

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ec330blc vcec330bt00080227 It always started right up. the one time it shut off was during several hours of use and it just shut off. Wouldn't start. Sat for a few days and started right up as nothing was ever wrong. It shut off this last time and hasn't started since. Asendum has worked on it a couple days and are all over the place on diagnoses. They replace fuel filters, pump and cleaned fuel lines. Then proceeded to say it was software issue. Then said I needed new batteries. I installed new batteries. Now they are saying its the wiring harness for injectors. I honestly think he is stumped and just guessing. And the repair bill is $5600 plus $1000 for diagnosing. Still not running. Very frustrated. It turns over fine but NO smoke from exhaust. Its got to be an electrical issue.
 

BigWrench55

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The ecm will not fire the injectors if it doesn't know where the crank or cam is. It definitely sounds like you have a parts changer diagnosing your machine. I am still leaning towards the position sensor because of the sudden shutdown. A simple test with a digital meter would tell you if the injector harness is bad. The injectors are pulse with modulated. Cylinders 1-3 have a common wire and 4-6 have a common wire. If there was a issue with the harness. Both of those common wires would have a problem. And I have my doubts unless it's a mouse problem. That harness just doesn't fail unless something acted upon it. Either way a multimeter will tell you. If that guy changes the harness and you still have the same problem. Then he will want to put injectors in it next. I know nothing about your dealer and the guys working there. But you may need to get a different mechanic out there for a second opinion.
 

johnsmith7668

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Jan 17, 2022
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Another mechanic said mouse issue lol. I pulled inspection doors under cab and wires look ok. All visual wires look ok but can't see all of them. i'm hoping to find someone else to look at it but harder than said. Trying to do what i can on my own.
 

funwithfuel

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Above your battery box is a plastic cover retained by 4 bolts. Please remove the cover, beneath you will find a plastic housing with 6 10mm screws. Carefully remove that cover, inside you will find relays, most likely not properly secured. First thing resecure everything as it should be. Now inside the cover is the legend for the relays one is data and the other is EMS. I would suggest swapping those 2 with the ones for horn and high speed travel. See if she starts. Good luck
 

BigWrench55

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I bet that's what it is. I completely forgot about those relays. In a moment I will post information on those. Don't you usually get a communication error code when those relays fail?
 

BigWrench55

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Take this information with a grain of salt. I find that these early models were not well documented by volvo.
 

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funwithfuel

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Depends on which instrument panel he's got. The old analog display with MDU doesn't care.

Another simple test to rule out the rest of the machines programming, with the key in the off position, go straight to crank in one motion, do not stop at the run position. If it starts like this, there's a data issue, if it doesn't, look to E-ECU, wiring and fuel issues. Cam n crank sensors are pretty resilient. When it was running, the other would have been tripping errors. He shoulda had a warning.
 

johnsmith7668

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Not sure witch relays are the data /ems. Did try to start it from the off position straight to the start position and it just turns over. When you turn it over for a few seconds a warning light comes up. I attached pic.
 

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funwithfuel

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Ok, now we're getting somewhere. The V-ECU is not communicating. Does this error appear when you allow the display to boot up normally?
R1 and R2 are the first 2 relays (vertically) on the right bank swap them with R3 and R4.
If that doesn't work, there's a switch under the left elbow armrest. 2 thumbscrews hold the cover on. One position is normal, the other is bypass. Only after exhausting all other testing, flip that switch, it takes the V-ECU out of the equation
 

johnsmith7668

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Not sure what you mean by booting normally? Do you mean by just turning the key on? When I turned the key on and let the glow plugs heat up I am not sure if the error is showing up. When I turn the engine over for a few seconds the Red light flashes at the top of the instrument panel and then I scroll through the screens to get the error code. I will try switching the relays tomorrow and report back. The bypass you are talking about, do i flip the switch and try to start engine?
 

funwithfuel

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If nothing else works. Most of the time,just looking at the switch is enough to cause issues. So. If nothing else works, flip the switch and see if the engine starts. The fact that your fuel gauge has no reading on top of the error code tells me, you have an issue with the V-ECU. Depending on your comfort level with troubleshooting, we can provide greater detail instructions which the dealer should have followed, but I'll bet a nickel, didn't.
 
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