CASE 450 DOZER EXPERT NEEEDED TRACK PARTS HELP

Hello
I have a plain case 450 dozer serial number of 3048746, I am working on the right side of the dozer where I have a broken recoil spring, bad idler, track adjuster that won't hold grease. The parts that are currently on the machine has a 7 3/8 spacing on the track adjuster. the used idler I picked up is a 6 1/4 spacing, the brackets on the used idler are in fair shape. I found broken tractor site for parts and they have a serial number break before 3050800 for parts. I was planning on using the Top Roller Mounting Bracket from the machine i picked up with the used idler.It has a good top roller. I just wanted to make sure all the parts I use are compatible as I am not a heavy equipment guy, I will be replacing the recoil spring, the long bolt, and the nut plate. I was going to get the 6 1/4 track adjuster that was complete it runs 415.00. The chrome is pitted on the track adjuster rod. i am trying to save money as this is just a farm machine that I play around on. The last question can I reuse the old track adjuster, pitted rod, and just install new seals? or will it fail quickly?
Any advice and/or part location is greatly appreciated.
B2R

On the adjuster question just replace the seal. They usually get damaged when the ram is overextended.
Be very careful when you assemble the spring. Done wrong they can cause a lot of tears, not necessarily you but your loved ones.

Tones said:

On the adjuster question just replace the seal. They usually get damaged when the ram is overextended.
Be very careful when you assemble the spring. Done wrong they can cause a lot of tears, not necessarily you but your loved ones.

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Thank you, i figured the spring was under a lot of tension as a front automotive strut. the spring is broken and loose lucky. I am not sure about tightening to proper spec.
the heavy corrosion inside the tensioner area where seals ride won't be an issue? or the pitted peeling of chrome on the track adjuster rod?

Just clean up the barrel with some emery paper and clean up where the seal sits. Crud is going to get back, in there when you start working it again and it probably wasn't a problem before.
A 20 press would be good enough to use when reassembling the spring and if you can have it in a cage. Another tip, before bolting this to the idler check if there's an offset on the part where the bolts go through. If there is the spring must be at the high position, running it in the low position the bottom roller will wear out the spring .

Tones said:

Just clean up the barrel with some emery paper and clean up where the seal sits. Crud is going to get back, in there when you start working it again and it probably wasn't a problem before.
A 20 press would be good enough to use when reassembling the spring and if you can have it in a cage. Another tip, before bolting this to the idler check if there's an offset on the part where the bolts go through. If there is the spring must be at the high position, running it in the low position the bottom roller will wear out the spring.

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Thank you Tones, What is the high/ low position of spring? I will double-check the offset before bolting back on. there is only one set of holes in the frame and that large bracket. no elongated holes as I can tell would that be the only offset?

What does the entire machine weigh? The pressure on the spring is equal to that weight. I've never assembled a recoil, or even seen one assembled in anything less than a 100 ton press. I realize the machine is small but you also need the height to get the spring into the press and the width to be able to work around it to get the nut on the rod and turned to the compressed length of the spring.

born2ride said:

Thank you Tones, What is the high/ low position of spring? I will double-check the offset before bolting back on. there is only one set of holes in the frame and that large bracket. no elongated holes as I can tell would that be the only offset?

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The offset is in the casting that bolts onto the ldler if there's any. Lay the complete spring on a flat surface with the bolt holes level and measure, rotate 180deg and measure. If there is any offset then the assembly must be fitted in the frame with the spring in the high position.
BTW what broke the spring?

John C. said:

What does the entire machine weigh? The pressure on the spring is equal to that weight. I've never assembled a recoil, or even seen one assembled in anything less than a 100 ton press. I realize the machine is small but you also need the height to get the spring into the press and the width to be able to work around it to get the nut on the rod and turned to the compressed length of the spring.

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I have a 25ton press, i think that machine is around 11k

Tones said:

The offset is in the casting that bolts onto the ldler if there's any. Lay the complete spring on a flat surface with the bolt holes level and measure, rotate 180deg and measure. If there is any offset then the assembly must be fitted in the frame with the spring in the high position.
BTW what broke the spring?

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That makes sense! spring is broke in half.

Here is a few pics of my 450C Spring caging housing rebuild. The spring wasn't broken, however the part that caged it was pretty rotted out, of which some repairs, blasting, painting improved things considerable. If yours is just a 450, it may be quite different.

Work in progress.

Patched up & back together.

Then rebuilding the hyd track adjuster.

We just worked with the pitted rod, cleaned it up the best we could & it works ok so far.

Metalman55
My case 450 is different with the spring set up.i get the idea

How does the nut come off the track adjuster rod ? as the threads from the spring bolt are stuck in the nut. I was going to replace the nut but I am unable to get the nut to separate from the track adjuster rod.

Mine is different on the 450C ; there is no nut on the back end.......it just fits in a socket.

Metalman 55 said:

Mine is different on the 450C ; there is no nut on the back end.......it just fits in a socket.

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Just beat off that square plate then?

born2ride said:

Just beat off that square plate then?

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I don't know as never have worked with one but I'd blast, or grind that part clean first off to see what you actually have to work with. That end very well could be a weldment, threaded, or interference fit, (press fit).