Can I plow snow w this 2wd backhoe?

Birdseye · Dec 11, 2021

Ok thanks for those comments and suggestions. Last year I did a little plowing on a 100’ section of straight dirt road just to see how it did. I wasn’t so satisfied with the results. Three things I noticed were:

- forward traction wasn’t an issue, I had a little slipping with the steering. If there was a frozen base or an incline chains sound like a real good idea. Maybe I’ll buy a bucket of 1/4” chain and make a set for the front tires at least, these are almost totally smooth.

- it’s was hard for me to know exactly where the scraper edge of the bucket was so as to pick up all the snow and none of the dirt road. I probably need to adjust the “return-to-load” setting so the edge of the loader bucket returns to the plane of the bottom of the tires without me having to attempt to adjust the bucket edge based on not being able to actually see it but looking at what’s left as the bucket passes.

- since the bucket isn’t a plow and has no tilt or angle , I was doing a lot of push and fill bucket w snow, backing up, turning to side , dumping on roadside, return to straight, repeat. It made me appreciate having a plow so I could set the plow position and then just go.

cuttin edge · Dec 11, 2021

Birdseye said:
Ok thanks for those comments and suggestions. Last year I did a little plowing on a 100’ section of straight dirt road just to see how it did. I wasn’t so satisfied with the results. Three things I noticed were:

- forward traction wasn’t an issue, I had a little slipping with the steering. If there was a frozen base or an incline chains sound like a real good idea. Maybe I’ll buy a bucket of 1/4” chain and make a set for the front tires at least, these are almost totally smooth.

- it’s was hard for me to know exactly where the scraper edge of the bucket was so as to pick up all the snow and none of the dirt road. I probably need to adjust the “return-to-load” setting so the edge of the loader bucket returns to the plane of the bottom of the tires without me having to attempt to adjust the bucket edge based on not being able to actually see it but looking at what’s left as the bucket passes.

- since the bucket isn’t a plow and has no tilt or angle , I was doing a lot of push and fill bucket w snow, backing up, turning to side , dumping on roadside, return to straight, repeat. It made me appreciate having a plow so I could set the plow position and then just go.

It's a feel thing. I plow with a loader, and a boxblade that the bucket shoves into. This time of year where I am, the ground isn't frozen enough yet. When I leave the pavement, I have to curl the bucket back a bit so the box runs a bit harder on the shoes, I can't see it, but I am used to the feel. Same as when I need my bucket. The auto level is a bit greedy for the pit, so when it kicks out, I snap it back a bit, and it will skim the grass. A new guy was asking me how to tell if his box was tipped too far ahead. I said to look at your side plates, they slide up square. If they are off the ground on the back section you see, the front is tipped down to far, and your shoes a way off the ground. tip back until they touch. Told him the same, you get used to it.

cuttin edge · Dec 11, 2021

Birdseye said:
Ok thanks for those comments and suggestions. Last year I did a little plowing on a 100’ section of straight dirt road just to see how it did. I wasn’t so satisfied with the results. Three things I noticed were:

- forward traction wasn’t an issue, I had a little slipping with the steering. If there was a frozen base or an incline chains sound like a real good idea. Maybe I’ll buy a bucket of 1/4” chain and make a set for the front tires at least, these are almost totally smooth.

- it’s was hard for me to know exactly where the scraper edge of the bucket was so as to pick up all the snow and none of the dirt road. I probably need to adjust the “return-to-load” setting so the edge of the loader bucket returns to the plane of the bottom of the tires without me having to attempt to adjust the bucket edge based on not being able to actually see it but looking at what’s left as the bucket passes.

- since the bucket isn’t a plow and has no tilt or angle , I was doing a lot of push and fill bucket w snow, backing up, turning to side , dumping on roadside, return to straight, repeat. It made me appreciate having a plow so I could set the plow position and then just go.

another thing, do you use your brakes to help you steer?

Willie B · Dec 11, 2021

Latest 580SuperN came too narrow to put tire chains on. I was able to mount the tires inside out (opposite side) I now have about 3" clearance for the chains. I'll have to keep them tight with no hanging chain in the side chains.

Years back, I bought a JD 410, it weighed about 14000 LBS. I reasoned it's heavy & the neighborhood isn't too steep, I'd do fine. I early on learned a thing or two about the fall line. Don't need to be very steep to take a wild ride on a machine weighing 16000.

Scout_1969 · Dec 13, 2021

Once the ground freezes it’s worse for sure.
My JD 310B is 2wd and it did just OK on slight slopes but extremely inefficient on steeper slopes. Could push very little snow and had to push the backhoe itself a lot.
I eventually got a set of Duo chains and it made a world of difference! It gives you so much more control at lower speeds and pushes/piles like a track loader does in dirt.
My machine doesn’t have the recommended clearance, but with the chains on tight and using the lower gears it didn’t rub anything. I checked them often at first and tightened/adjusted them, then just kept an eye on them.
I’m only pushing around my relatively small property so I can/need to go slow.
Of course, the faster the machine goes and the more slack in the chains, more clearance is required.

emmett518 · Dec 14, 2021

redranch said:
On the C that I had, wasnt enough clearance between inner fender and tire to put chains on.

Deere sells tire spacers for the rears. The spacers sit between the hub and the rim. The kit provides new lug studs that are longer to accommodate the spacers. If you buy them from Deere, you'll pay $1000 a set. You'll also need the tool to remove the old studs and install new ones. Amazon, $269. The spacers will give you enough room to mount chains.

I bought a set of TRYGG chains for front and back from White Mountain Chain in Idaho. White Mountain's pricing was almost 50% less expensive than everyone else, and they are an authorized dealer. Buy SMT Flexis for pavement. They also make logging chains for skidders that drive through mud. All of their chains are monsters.

emmett518 · Dec 14, 2021

Here's the major problem.

If you plow with the front loader bucket, you have to float the bucket. If you hit any pressure against the bucket from the front, the high pivot point where the loader bucket attaches to the tractor will force the front wheels of the hoe off the ground. I can't speak for anyone else, but the thought of not having steering or lateral stability on an icy slope scares me silly.

I solved this by buying an old, junk snow plow, and mounted the quick attach for the plow onto a fork lift frame that matches my Deere quick attach. The plow mount pivots to follow the contours of the ground, so you can lock the loader arms in place (not float them).

We'll see how it works when the snow flies.

emmett518 · Dec 14, 2021

emmett518 said:
Deere sells tire spacers for the rears. The spacers sit between the hub and the rim. The kit provides new lug studs that are longer to accommodate the spacers. If you buy them from Deere, you'll pay $1000 a set. You'll also need the tool to remove the old studs and install new ones. Amazon, $269. The spacers will give you enough room to mount chains.

I bought a set of TRYGG chains for front and back from White Mountain Chain in Idaho. White Mountain's pricing was almost 50% less expensive than everyone else, and they are an authorized dealer. Buy SMT Flexis for pavement. They also make logging chains for skidders that drive through mud. All of their chains are monsters.

emmett518 · Dec 14, 2021

emmett518 said:
Here's the major problem.

If you plow with the front loader bucket, you have to float the bucket. If you hit any pressure against the bucket from the front, the high pivot point where the loader bucket attaches to the tractor will force the front wheels of the hoe off the ground. I can't speak for anyone else, but the thought of not having steering or lateral stability on an icy slope scares me silly.

I solved this by buying an old, junk snow plow, and mounted the quick attach for the plow onto a fork lift frame that matches my Deere quick attach. The plow mount pivots to follow the contours of the ground, so you can lock the loader arms in place (not float them).

We'll see how it works when the snow flies.

Willie B · Dec 14, 2021

I've had many tractors, only one new set of chains. They were the worst ever. They were a pattern where all of the links were the same, elongated ovals. two cross chains were linked with two longitudinal connectors, Essentially squares held in place by cross chains. Seemed like a good idea.
They worked well in mud or deep snow. Driving slow on plowed paved road from one driveway to another, they'd somehow tangle & POP! they'd break a cross chain, leaving this mass of chain to beat up the fenders.

I have a set of Canadian skidder chains, A series of caulked 12" rings are held in place by four short chains. Again, they are best in deep mud or very deep snow. On any hard surface they give a very rough ride.

Simplest are double ring chains. they work OK on everything but steep glass hard grades.

I'd sure love to have modern ice pick chains, never used them, but they sure look impressive!

cuttin edge · Dec 14, 2021

emmett518 said:
Here's the major problem.

If you plow with the front loader bucket, you have to float the bucket. If you hit any pressure against the bucket from the front, the high pivot point where the loader bucket attaches to the tractor will force the front wheels of the hoe off the ground. I can't speak for anyone else, but the thought of not having steering or lateral stability on an icy slope scares me silly.

I solved this by buying an old, junk snow plow, and mounted the quick attach for the plow onto a fork lift frame that matches my Deere quick attach. The plow mount pivots to follow the contours of the ground, so you can lock the loader arms in place (not float them).

We'll see how it works when the snow flies.

The scary guy is the one with the backhoe plowing wide open going straight ahead wit the wheels turned all the way to the right. and waiting for the steering axle to get traction back and him going into the ditch. First time I plowed with a back hoe, I didn't know about steering with the brakes. I jumped in, and went down the road to do a little cleanup job (my loader was in the shop for a service when I had finished my route). Someone had unlocked the brake peddle, I came to the stop sign, the road was snow packed, and I went end for end.

cuttin edge · Dec 14, 2021

emmett518 said:
View attachment 250153

We used to run a power angle blade like this on the backhoes. Our New Hollands were 4x4 but they could be hard to steer. The power angle could help steer. I think they were an 11 foot. They sold one with a backhoe, one backhoe was stolen of a job, and they put the blade for it on an L45 loader, and the other one is sitting in the field with the V plow for my grader with trees growing all around it.

Welder Dave · Dec 15, 2021

You don't have to plow in float position. On gravel I like to have a have a layer of packed snow for a base so I don't mess up the gravel.

DaveA · Dec 18, 2021

my 580SE pushes snow just fine. might weld a hook up in the back of the bucket, like i did on my allis 816. I would mount a 7 ft truck plow ijn the back of the bucket to push snow

Willie B · Dec 19, 2021

DaveA said:
my 580SE pushes snow just fine. might weld a hook up in the back of the bucket, like i did on my allis 816. I would mount a 7 ft truck plow ijn the back of the bucket to push snow

I rigged a 9' plow to mount below the bucket. I could lock the loader with plow pivot pins as close to the ground as possible, the plow could float. It pushed ok straight, but I couldn't angle the blade hardly at all. Balance is all off with a backhoe, not near enough weight on the front. Front wheels don't steer effectively, and it is so long maneuverability is a problem.

gasifier · Jan 1, 2022

Have any of you tried Grip Studs?

https://www.gripstuds.com/index.php

I have had good luck with them on a couple of past machines. Check them out. I think it’s the 1910T I usually order.

I have run several kinds of chains as well. And they will give you better traction in mud and snow. But with clearing the snow in front of you the studs really help with what’s left behind. Packed snow and ice. I have no pavement though. Just crushed stone.

aighead · Jan 4, 2022

Those look interesting gasifier, how scary is it intentionally screwing things into your tires?

gasifier · Jan 4, 2022

aighead said:
Those look interesting gasifier, how scary is it intentionally screwing things into your tires?

Its a little scary. LOL But, like they tell you on the website and in the installation instructions, be sure you have adequate tread thickness. The provide the details on each style for penetration depth. They don’t go in too deep. Good for ice and hard pack.

gasifier · Jan 6, 2022

Just put some in my backhoe tires.

Not a lot. But enough to help with traction on the slippery stuff.

Tinkerer · Jan 6, 2022

Emmitt518; Is the snowplow in the photo you posted yours ?
It looks good to me.
If it doesn't have power angle on it, it would be really neat to have it converted.

Can I plow snow w this 2wd backhoe?

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