New Holland lx865 injection pump replacement?

Hey guys, I’ve seen multiple write ups all over the internet!!! No real good advice for changeing out injection pumps on the 332t 3 cylinder. Even called my local dealer today an he said that I was like the 3rd guy this month that’s called asking for advice on how to do it. Basically he told me that I nearly needed to be a NASA engineer to perform the task. Well I’ve sent the pump off for repair an reinstalled it an pulled off the front engine cover and lined up all the timeing marks on the gears , the injection pump has a keyed shaft but the gear that drives it don’t. So I’ve lined up all my timeing marks an locked my pump down on the d try I’ve gear z a n unlocked the locking bolt on pump an all the motor will do is blow off heavy white smoke while spinning the motor over. Want fire up, I ran into this yrs ago an literally performed this same task an just started moveing my injection pump gear one tooth at a time till I got it to run . That was on another guys bobcat yrs ago. This pump times at 29degrees before thc. One guy was talking bout removing injector one an sticking a coat hanger do inside head on top of the piston to find tdc an slowly turn motor backwards till the hanger starts to move down an mark it each time it starts to move then find center of the hanger. Basically I got lost. Tell me how to perform this BS timeing task an im lost. Now you show me an I’ll learn how to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. For sure someone has found an easier way, when I removed the pump to get repaired I had locked the bolt down on the pump an told the pump shop to check were the shafts location was prior to disassemble it. So when pump was fixed they could reset the shaft back to we’re it was locked down prior to the repair. Of course they didn’t do it. Thx guys

Send me a pm and I'll send some info in the morning

Pull valve cover and watch valves for
Overlap on tdc and set pump locked just before tdc when installing

If the PUMP is locked, it means the timing is in the PUMP..
So all ya gotta do is find TDC on the engine..
I hope that helps.
1 more thing.. look inside the gear, the empty key way on the pump drive shaft would have left a mark INSIDE THE GEAR..
Good luck

Not as easy as it sounds, that’s how I did it, pump was installed when it was sent back to me from pump shop, I had pulled cover off front of motor snow lined up all timeing marks on gears, Still didn’t work, just blows smoke.

chris allen said:

Hey guys, I’ve seen multiple write ups all over the internet!!! No real good advice for changing out injection pumps on the 332t 3 cylinder...... Of course they didn’t do it. Thx guys

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Chris I am just starting to remove my injector pump for repair on the same engine. I'm not sure I gleaned enough out of this short thread to fully understand what's going to be required to reinstall it timed correctly. Now that you are probably finished with it, is there anything in particular I need to note or mark when I remove it tomorrow ? Or anyone else for that matter have any input ? Was there a mark on the INSIDE of the gear like thepumpguysc suggests ?

If I were doing it all over again I’d remove top radiator hose an engine vent tube off an outta the way of the pumps heat cover, once everything thing is outta the way an ya get the gear cover off , clean the injection pump gear up
An mark the pump gear with a white marker an see if ya can mark the idler gear that drives it too, ya prob can’t get to but the tips of the idler gear, but mark it to we’re both gears are marked an together, then take a drimmel tool or something small an grind a small line on the tip of the injection pump shaft, then do the same the gear that bolts to the injection pump. Kinda do a dot to dot for the gears an a grind to grind on the gear an injection pump shaft. Basically it’s has a pain the rear timeing method to do it the dealer way, The pump times at 29degrees before top dead center an then ya have to time the motor aswell. Basically it’s a long drawn out process. An it can’t get pretty intense, But ya can do it the way I refer you too, I’d be glade to talk to ya on the phone if ya like. My email is backwoodstractor@hotmail.com Send me a email or ur cell an we’ll talk about it if ya like.

Thanks Chris for the response. I can't work on it daily so when I get to the point I have serious questions, I may just take you up on the offer of help via phone call... I am almost to the point to where I can mark the components as you suggest and that is surprisingly close to what I'd suggested to my son Sunday as we were clearing the area around the pump. You posted some good specifics though and I appreciate that for sure. Once I get it marked and removed, I'm sure the rebuilder is going to take at least a couple of weeks to get it back to me.
I'm pulling the injectors too so they can test them and the center one will not budge !! With them removed, I should be easily able to rotate the crank to verify for sure there are or are not marks. Right now I can't even get my hand in front of the gear cover much less holding a ratchet !! It's tight in there. Not much clearance between it and the starter either to slide backwards and out.
I looked for a manual online and they want $389 for a 1,000 page service manual. Whew !! Thanks again Chris and I will keep this information for when I hit the wall on the re-assembly.

Yes the fuel filter an houseing will
Need to be replaced possible air filter assembly, ya can do it with the radiator still in if ya can get In there with ur paint marker to mark gears an ur dremil tool to mark the pump shaft, some gears have 3 small bolts that hold it to the pump drive hub, if so take the 3 bolts out an don’t disturb the big nut in the center, if ya take the nut off an remove hub it will surely give ya timeing head aches. Text me if ya need to chat over the phone an I’ll call ya rite back. 706 594-0136

Not replaced but removed outta the way

chris allen said:

Yes the fuel filter an houseing will
Need to be replaced possible air filter assembly, ya can do it with the radiator still in if ya can get In there with ur paint marker to mark gears an ur dremil . Text me if ya need to chat over the phone an I’ll call ya rite back. 706 594-0136

Click to expand...

I will certainly retain your message when I get back to work on it. The holidays and other obligations...you know, kinda take precedence. But I did decide to remove the radiator and oil cooler...so now at least I have very good access to the cover. So the next step will be removal of the cover and marking appropriately.

Procedure in service manual is long and drawn out. Remove valve cover, rocker shaft, measure valve drop.........
I remove fuel filter, starter, fuel lines, pump gear cover, loosen pump to gear nut, lock pump, remove pump. I use a degree wheel to note where pump shaft is in relation to scribe mark on pump housing. I have seen guys scribe on face of pump where shaft keyway is when removed and just make sure shaft is in same position when install. There is no reason to remove front cover and mark gears.