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Repairing older style dozer final drives D6D

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
After finding some metal on the magnetic plug of my D6D final drive, I am going to have to get it fixed. Finances being not as good as they once were I am considering doing most of the work myself with a qualified diesel fitter to probably doing the reassembly. I think I can borrow a sprocket puller with the appropriate tooling for the job. I have the workshop manual.

I know I will need new gears and will be going aftermarket. Genuine Cat gears are way out my price range and the machine is barely a 300hr a year machine and already 45 years old. What opinions are there on aftermarket gear brands. Should I look for some that are crown shaved? I was thinking Italian made ones. Cat do a final drive consumable kit for the D6E 134-6442. I would buy that kit if it is appropriate for the D6D. Checking the bearings and they are the same.

Ultimately how difficult a job is it, I know it would get complicated if the top pinion needs replacing especially as I have an air cab. I have the confidence to be able to pull it apart at least. I understand you have to do things like pull the sprocket from the hub and not the dead axle. Never put a cutting torch near bearings. Weld them instead to shrink, which I do when I have to these days.
 

Dave Neubert

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Jul 18, 2018
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Monroe NC
The finial drives are easy to build as long as you have access to a Cat press should be no problem also need the spanner wrench to adjust bearings also check the condition of the nut on the end of the dead axle they can get wallowed out and slip back loosening the bearing preload
 

tctractors

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Oct 9, 2007
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2,411
Location
Worc U.K.
It's an easy task to strip out the F/Drives and is always a good idea to do both at the same time, if any of the gears are good you can swap them to the other side and get all the wear from them, on the D6 C-D -E's I would have done well past a 100 F/Drives with the hardest part or longest time is getting out the bearings as a few of them are pegged, the inner intermediate bearing race is pegged and will need the housing removed to sort, so this involves draining the Trans oil before you get in a mess, the things to look out for are the tin labrinth sections on the sprocket as they often suffer damage. tctractors it might be worth looking in Shop Talk for some of of the pictures I have posted in the past.
 

MattR

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Dec 25, 2010
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253
Location
Michigan
The finial drives are easy to build as long as you have access to a Cat press should be no problem also need the spanner wrench to adjust bearings also check the condition of the nut on the end of the dead axle they can get wallowed out and slip back loosening the bearing preload
Yep that's where im at with my D7E. Big job
 

Queenslander

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Joined
Apr 5, 2009
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1,242
Location
Australia
I know I will need new gears and will be going aftermarket. Genuine Cat gears are way out my price range and the machine is barely a 300hr a year machine and already 45 years old. What opinions are there on aftermarket gear brands.
If possible, I would stay away from the large aftermarket supplier in Toowoomba, although they will undoubtedly be the cheapest.
The Cat general duty appear to be good value, but I don’t see an alternate number for the int. gear.
 

Glum

Active Member
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Feb 15, 2017
Messages
29
Location
South Africa
Worst part of the job is getting the cab and operator station out of the way to replace the pinion. Doesn't DJ live near to you and willing to do it for a case of beer?
 

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
You need to post this in the Dozer section. Let me see if I can get it moved.


Thanks, being a repair question I thought "shop" might have been more appropriate.

The finial drives are easy to build as long as you have access to a Cat press should be no problem also need the spanner wrench to adjust bearings also check the condition of the nut on the end of the dead axle they can get wallowed out and slip back loosening the bearing preload

OK, thanks. I checked the sprocket for wobble with a crowbar when I got the machine about 350 hours ago. It was movement free then.

It's an easy task to strip out the F/Drives and is always a good idea to do both at the same time, if any of the gears are good you can swap them to the other side and get all the wear from them, on the D6 C-D -E's I would have done well past a 100 F/Drives with the hardest part or longest time is getting out the bearings as a few of them are pegged, the inner intermediate bearing race is pegged and will need the housing removed to sort, so this involves draining the Trans oil before you get in a mess, the things to look out for are the tin labrinth sections on the sprocket as they often suffer damage. tctractors it might be worth looking in Shop Talk for some of of the pictures I have posted in the past.

Thanks, the other side was done before I bought it, while I have no idea what they did, there was free gasket goo on the final drive case and also goo on the steering clutch compartment. When I changed the oil last there was no metal in the one side and lots of flakes and a couple of gear tooth chips on the other side. I stuck my finger in the hole to feel the tooth and the bull gear on the side that needs repairing you could feel the roughness of the tooth on both sides . The other side felt smooth. The the tin guard on the sprocket on the side I need to do has been repaired with some big diameter tube or something like that welded onto the tin guard. In the parts book that guard or the rivets are not listed as a replacable part.

I have looked in the forums for other threads and have found a few including your multipage one.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/caterpillar-sproket-removal-also-komatsu.41705/

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/d6c-final-drive-sea.68921/

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/final-drive-work-on-d7g-couple-questions.47780/

If possible, I would stay away from the large aftermarket supplier in Toowoomba, although they will undoubtedly be the cheapest.
The Cat general duty appear to be good value, but I don’t see an alternate number for the int. gear.

There seem to be varying opinions on the cat aftermarket gears. Some say good, some say rubbish. They are a lot cheaper.
Bull gear $4872 verses $1948
pinion the two gears $3645 versus $1588
small pinion $855 versus $420

If I had to replace all the gears with their aftermarket and plus the bearing/seal kit from Cat it will be around $6500 for materials. Provided the dead axle and hubs are all serviceable. So in today's market say about 3 cows worth. :)

Worst part of the job is getting the cab and operator station out of the way to replace the pinion. Doesn't DJ live near to you and willing to do it for a case of beer?

dj lives just down the road, so about 2.5hours drive away. :D It is his sprocket puller I am hoping to borrow.
 

tctractors

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Oct 9, 2007
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2,411
Location
Worc U.K.
The Sprocket guard is listed and can be bolted or just welded onto the existing rivets by just grinding the rivet dome heads off, as for pulling the sprocket you will need to pop off the outer hub first so study the pictures as the answers are all to be seen, when you pull the sprocket make sure the hub nut is in place with a gap of around 1/4" or just a bit less to save any drama's. tctractors
 

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
OK Thanks. That guard is not listed on the page for all the final drive breakdown (which was why I could not find it), but I turned the page on my parts book and found it was listed on the sprocket segments page.

4F6066 and there is even Cat yellow mark ones available 502-3590
 

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
Still not started yet but am working out a parts list for bearings and such.

I tried the D6E final drive rebuild kit but it's bearings numbers to not cross over, neither do the duo cone seal numbers and another seal. But when I tried to put the cylindrical roller bearings numbers out of the parts list for a D6D into SIS they come up as not available. I fully suspect the bearings are all the same but the numbers do not update.

So a 6B5163 is probably a 5P9176 but SIS says otherwise.

The duo cone is a 8P1848 but it says not available contact dealer, but it is probably a 9W6674 but again sis says differently.
 

Cmark

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Jan 2, 2009
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Australia
I've not (yet) taken a deep dive into this, but at first glance 6B5163 probably IS, at some point 5P9176.

upload_2022-2-13_20-27-37.png

8P1848 appears to also be 6T8439 or 9G5341.

upload_2022-2-13_20-30-46.png
 

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
I've not (yet) taken a deep dive into this, but at first glance 6B5163 probably IS, at some point 5P9176.

Looks right as 2P2810 is the mate to 6B5163 and 5P9176 and 5P9177 are the new numbers for the D6E final drive bearing kit

So 2B5163 ---> 5P9176
2P2810 ---> 5P9177



The other numbers for the intermediate gears bearings are I suspect

6B5067 ---> 6V1013
9S8669 ---> 6V1014

5M7705 ---> 5P5067
9S4085 ---> 5P5066

8P1848 appears to also be 6T8439 or 9G5341

That is what I come up with as well as a 108-2194. But it says not in stock contact dealer for any number.
 
Last edited:

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
Yes but only Cat parts give Cat performance :)

I was always told for bearings and seals in high expense areas like final drives, better to go genuine parts because they are the right ones and usually priced quite reasonably. What the reality is though on aftermarket I have no idea. Although looking at SIS today, has it been changed so parts in overseas warehouses no longer show up? Pretty hard to believe there is not a duo cone seal in a Cat warehouse in Singapore or the USA.
 

Cmark

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Australia
The internet can only do so much. Call Hastings on 131 228 (131 CAT ;)) It's their job to help you out.

Also try calling Expressway, Don Clark Tractors, RD Williams and ask if their parts are NOS or aftermarket. They will be happy to talk to you.
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
So a 6B5163 is probably a 5P9176 but SIS says otherwise.
6B5162 is listed as a 312 bearing with an inside diameter of 77.67mm.
5P9176 is listed as a 61312 bearing with an inside diameter of 74.656mm.
All the other dimensions are identical between the two bearings.

As RC & CMark have said if you pair the 5P-9176 with its correct mate the 5P-9177 then everything works, but don't try mixing and matching the inner and outer partsof the bearing.

On the Duo-Cones both of the options in CM's illustration above for a service part for 8P-1848 (9G-5341 & 6T-8439) service to 9W-6674.
 

.RC.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2012
Messages
754
Location
Qld, Australia
Thanks. It seems last night the cat website was playing up as this morning it seems to be finding parts.

I also found on SIS2 where cmark was able to find the replacement part numbers.

In any case, I put those new bearing numbers in and everything is coming up as in stock in this state.

final drive list.jpg
 
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