• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

How to flush water from hydraulic system on International Harvester backhoe

Nick & Pat

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2019
Messages
36
Location
Pennsylvania
I recently found water contaminating the entire hydraulic system, hoses, lines and cylinders of my 1974 International Harvester backhoe.

With cold weather coming on, I need to flush the entire system with the contaminated oil and replace it with new, clean hydraulic oil

I need direction as to the procedure of how I would do this correctly throughout the entire system
 

NepeanGC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
203
Location
Ottawa, Ontario
Occupation
#dirtherder
Do you have a local hydraulics shop? Our local ones have filter carts they rent and sell. Should be able to filter the oil, and return to service. Often cheaper than dumping the whole system.
 

Coaldust

Senior Member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
3,286
Location
North of the 60
Occupation
Cargo Tanks, ULSD, RUG, Methanol, LPG
Or, just start draining everything that holds oil, the best you can. Rinse and repeat until you are happy. Change filters, Pull a oil sample when you are done to see how good of job you did. It sucks, takes time and money. Lots of time and money. And figure out where all the water came from.
 

JLarson

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Messages
656
Location
AZ
Occupation
Owner- civil and heavy repair/fab company
Filter carts are cool but if you have a ton of water and other contamination filters fill up quick and they don't give them away either $$$$
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,342
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
N & P didn't say what model the T/L/B is.
It required 40 gallons to get mine completely water free. I just looked at today's price of the oil I used.
Good Grief !! 8 buckets @ $53.00+ tax = over $450.00.
 

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
I've done this very scenario many times through the years with equipment that resides outside and not under cover. Basically you need a clean temporary reservoir for drainage, and several gallons of hydraulic oil of choice. I mention a temporary reservoir as I like to see what came out of a system. Otherwise any drain pan will work.

On the implement or tractor, drain a bit of the main hydraulic reservoir down to ensure there is no water left in this reservoir. You don't need to drain it completely, just to where there is no water present. As you know, oil has a specific gravity less than water, so it floats, meaning the water will migrate to the bottom. This you basically drain off. You then refill the main reservoir to the "full" level. Start the tractor and cycle every hydraulic circuit full stroke several times and get the hydraulic system warm to normal operating temperature. Warm viscous oil will separate much faster than cold. Then drain the main tractor reservoir again to check for any water. Sometimes best to let the tractor set a couple of hours to allow the possible emulsified water to separate back out into the reservoir. Then do the same thing again a couple of times if needed until no detectable water is found. There are other ways to do this task but the way mentioned only costs time and a little bit of oil for topoff.

It used to be common for backhoe "crowd" cylinders to become water borne as the seal sets in a horizontal plane in the gland forming a "bowl" for water to set in. As the cylinder is stroked in, the slight vacuum created as the cylinder pulls in can suck a bit of water with it as the seals age. Forklift masts do the same thing as they are retracted.

It can take several days to do this and much easier if a small ball valve is incorporated into the main hydraulic reservoir. It can be a bit messy removing a pipe plug with some reservoir pressure behind it.....
 

1693TA

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
2,687
Location
Farmington IL
Occupation
FAA Radar Engineer, (Retired)
N & P didn't say what model the T/L/B is.
It required 40 gallons to get mine completely water free. I just looked at today's price of the oil I used.
Good Grief !! 8 buckets @ $53.00+ tax = over $450.00.

Doing the same thing with mine at this writing. Hard to take when filling it up mostly, and immediately blow a hose upon operating the handles.....
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,257
Location
Canada
Drain as much as you can a few times as mentioned above and then maybe run everything through a filter cart. There are different micron rating filters and specific water separation filters for filter carts. Your machine isn't common so it's a good idea to get it as clean as possible so you're not needing new components.
 

Nick & Pat

Active Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2019
Messages
36
Location
Pennsylvania
Drain as much as you can a few times as mentioned above and then maybe run everything through a filter cart. There are different micron rating filters and specific water separation filters for filter carts. Your machine isn't common so it's a good idea to get it as clean as possible so you're not needing new components.
thank you for the reply
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,342
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
So, If his T/L/B has say maybe 40 gallons of oil in the entire system does anyone know what the per-gallon cost would be to either rent or hire someone to do the filter cart method.
I am really curious how compares to a complete system flush like I have done.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,863
Location
WI
Everything I've heard is those filters are expensive for the amount of water removed, that alone will make it more than new oil, especially if you don't know what's in it.

The cart has to be compared to the labor to take apart hoses, or multiple flushes. If labor isn't charged, then several drain, boil, refill until it's clear, then drain half and half new fluid, best you're going to do on the cheap.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,257
Location
Canada
I think filter carts are a good idea for a final cleaning after the fluid has been drained a few times. They could help get rid of left over water and debris so you don't have to take all the lines off.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,342
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
I have been using AW 32 for years in my machine.
Until the same vendor last week advertised their Premium grade hy-trans that meets (supposedly) John Deere J20C specs. for $39.99 @ 5 gallons.
I bought 15 gallons and will get 10 more before the price goes back up to $53.99.
That price would make a significant difference ($53.00) in the cost of a 40 gallon complete flush.
 

JD955SC

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
1,349
Location
The South
Ya get yourself some oil on the cheaper side (just not the cheapest 303 crap or similar), drain and fill a few times, then some better oil and drain and fill a time or two.

You can also try rigging up a vacuum pump and pulling a vacuum and getting the oil good and hot and working it until the moisture has boiled off after two or three drain and fill cycles.
 
Top