I need to replace the left hand final drive on my D8N 9tc machine. Just wondering if I need to follow the manual or can I just pull the cover off the case pull the driveshaft out and pull the final off. Is it necessary to pull the steering motor off? Do I need the special cat tool to pull the axle out? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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D8N final drive removal
- Thread starter Race5118
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
I guess the answer to that question depends on exactly what the problem is, and also are you going to repair the existing final drive or install a replacement and what will the replacement consist of.?
If you have welding facilites I can help you with a drawing of the FT1952 axle removal tool, it's not a complex thing to make. You really need something that will screw on to the thread on the end of the axle to help you yank it out. Also the length of the tool helps with balance during the installation of the axle.
Dave Neubert
Senior Member
You don't really need the tool to pull the outer axle you can just screw a 5/8 bolt in the end so you can grab it. there is a lifting frame that you can make to lift the final it is C shaped and allows you to remove and install the final with ease wit a crane or something to lift with Nige can post a picture of it. or a fork lift will work too as you need to have a way to lift from under the fender
Nige
Senior Member
Dave, Aren’t those axles the ones with the (IIRC) 1-5/8” external thread right at the end.? That’s what the tool screws on to.
If you don’t have the lifting bracket or something like it the other options are a forklift under the FD (but you need to strap it to the forks) or remove the fender so that you can get a straight shot at it from above with some sort of lifting device. I’ll find some photos of the lifting bracket and post them.
If you don’t have the lifting bracket or something like it the other options are a forklift under the FD (but you need to strap it to the forks) or remove the fender so that you can get a straight shot at it from above with some sort of lifting device. I’ll find some photos of the lifting bracket and post them.
Dave Neubert
Senior Member
I don't know I have never been in a 8 just going by 6s and 7s
Nige
Senior Member
I need to confirm but the same FT1952 tool that is called out on the R&I procedure for the OP’s D8N is also used on D9, 10, & 11s and screws on to an external thread on the end of the axle shaft.
Nige
Senior Member
My bad. The FT-1952 is the one with the male 5/8" thread on the end of it, so Dave's idea of a 5/8" bolt will work.
I sent the OP the drawing anyway.
The tool for D9 & Up is 5P-7395. That's the one that screws on to the 2"-12 TPI external thread on the end of the axle.
I sent the OP the drawing anyway.
The tool for D9 & Up is 5P-7395. That's the one that screws on to the 2"-12 TPI external thread on the end of the axle.
Nige
Senior Member
One thing you need to bear in mind is that the factory lifting bracket is adjustable. The lifting points can be moved so that whatever weight is hung from the end of it the bracket hangs dead true in a vertical sense. This is important because there is limited space to work when removing/installing a FD because of the fender being right above it.
So here's a suggestion when you come to building a lfting bracket. Use the final drive that you are going to install as a dead weight and move the upper/lower lifting points in/out so that it hangs true. Then you can pretty well guarantee that the final drive you are removing will hang the same way on the lfting bracket when you pull it out. It will save you a lot of cursing when you go to install the replacement FD. Here are photos of the lifting bracket being used on a D10 so that you can appreciate just how close to the fender it gets.
So here's a suggestion when you come to building a lfting bracket. Use the final drive that you are going to install as a dead weight and move the upper/lower lifting points in/out so that it hangs true. Then you can pretty well guarantee that the final drive you are removing will hang the same way on the lfting bracket when you pull it out. It will save you a lot of cursing when you go to install the replacement FD. Here are photos of the lifting bracket being used on a D10 so that you can appreciate just how close to the fender it gets.
absoluteyukon
Well-Known Member
If you have access to a forklift you can forego the lifting bracket all together. I put the forks at 5 and 7 o'clock on the sprocket segments and in far enough to support the inboard of the final drive with 6x6 that spans the forks. Get a 3/4t comealong around the whole thing and cinch it tight so the forks cant spread apart and you're good to go. Installing with a forklift takes a little patience but is completely achievable. A second set of eyes and sidesift on the fork truck helps.
Another quick word of wisdom, let the machine coast to a stop on level ground in N before you disable it. If there is drivetrain tension on those axles they are much more difficult to remove.
Another quick word of wisdom, let the machine coast to a stop on level ground in N before you disable it. If there is drivetrain tension on those axles they are much more difficult to remove.
Nige
Senior Member
Most definitely. If the axle shafts have any weight on them between the undercarriage and the final drive you’ll never get them out.
tctractors
Senior Member
On Diff Steer Tractors you will have to up your game to pull the complete unit from the Case, the outer and inner shaft can both be pulled out from the left side plus the steer motor and mount will need to be removed, then with all the bolts removed that hold the F/Drive to the case and the F/drive pulled about 30mm away from the case you need to rotate the the inner hub down towards the engine (anti clock about 60 deg' to allow clearance to pull the housing clear, the R/Hand F/Drive is easy to pull off with none of this extra work, to tackle the left side with a fork lift is going to be some game plus it's going to be an even bigger game to refit, make a lifting beam out of some old junk and you might be glad of your effort, they are heavy and difficult to handle on your own, to just remove the outer planetary is easy and can be done with a F/lift or a mini digger in a few moments. tctractors
Got it changed it was alot easier than I thought it was going to be. I made an adjustable lifting bracket worked that worked pretty good. Looks like all the extra stuff the manual says to take off is if your pulling all the internals as well.
Nige
Senior Member
No photos.?
Chrisso
Senior Member
Nige
Senior Member
I assume getting hold of the drawing for the FT-1952 wasn't a problem for you.? 