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cylinder sleeve removal

bunkclimber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
116
Location
MD
last engine I did like this was an Isuzu C240 diesel, it had thin chrome dry liners like these..just take a oxy/acyet welding torch(not a cutting torch) and heat the old liner up in one strip top to bottom and peel it out where its red hot.Then the liner will come out with little effort..might be a good idea to flex hone the bare block lightly and check it for burrs afterwards..then refit the new liner after cold soaking it in dry ice(use a cooler full) for a few hours,spray the block bore with WD40 usually have to tap it into the block with a block of wood and a ball peen hammer..work fast as it expands quickly..make sure you have the liner bottomed into the block,usually there is a ridge on the block deck surface the liner will seat into.Different manufactureres use different designs so your results may vary..set the job up right,have everything ready when seating the new liners.
 

Tenwheeler

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
Messages
870
Location
Georgia
last engine I did like this was an Isuzu C240 diesel, it had thin chrome dry liners like these..just take a oxy/acyet welding torch(not a cutting torch) and heat the old liner up in one strip top to bottom and peel it out where its red hot.Then the liner will come out with little effort..might be a good idea to flex hone the bare block lightly and check it for burrs afterwards..then refit the new liner after cold soaking it in dry ice(use a cooler full) for a few hours,spray the block bore with WD40 usually have to tap it into the block with a block of wood and a ball peen hammer..work fast as it expands quickly..make sure you have the liner bottomed into the block,usually there is a ridge on the block deck surface the liner will seat into.Different manufactureres use different designs so your results may vary..set the job up right,have everything ready when seating the new liners.
Different way. Thanks for sharing.
 

jook24

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2010
Messages
233
Location
saskatchewan
i had mine bored 25 over can go to up 50 dry sleeves cat excavator engine said it was way cheaper to bore it out.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,471
Location
Canada
Parent bore can usually be bored. If engine is out boring is usually cheaper. Some debate over boring vs sleeves on engines like Cat 3204's. I had my block bored .010" over using IPD 3 ring pistons and no problems in about 1800 hours. Others think boring and sleeved with standard size pistons is better.
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,870
Location
Northwest
Occupation
Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
I'm getting a little leery of this thread. The OP has never stated what machine this engine is in nor stated any serial number for the machine or the engine. No photos have been posted and the supposed source of the rebuild kit has never been mentioned.

I'm getting a little tired of trying to help ghost writers. At this point I'm putting the OP on my do not disturb list.
 

samsstuff

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
57
Location
tn
Look in the block from the bottom. Sometimes sleeves extend past the bore in the block.
It would be easy to see the extension or confirm there is no sleeve.
yep definitly got sleeves, thats not the problem now, tore rest down and crank is killed, gonna have be turned around ten, then after that im lost on how find a over sized bearing, i can find everything on net except a crank
 

samsstuff

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
57
Location
tn
I'm getting a little leery of this thread. The OP has never stated what machine this engine is in nor stated any serial number for the machine or the engine. No photos have been posted and the supposed source of the rebuild kit has never been mentioned.

I'm getting a little tired of trying to help ghost writers. At this point I'm putting the OP on my do not disturb list.
i dont know how do pic, machine is a pc50uu-1 engine is a 3d95s-w-1, now you know, wish i was a ghost, id fart me a imaginary crankshaft, gonna look elsewhere for help.
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,365
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
The help is here Sam !
We just needed those details. Without them we may as well fart in a whirlwind. :D
Have you tried a komatsu dealer ?
Maybe they would at least give you the part number for it.
Why not grind the crankshaft and get the bearings from Komatsu ?
 
Last edited:

samsstuff

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
57
Location
tn
The help is here Sam !
We just needed those details. Without them we may as well fart in a whirlwind. :D
Have you tried a komatsu dealer ?
Maybe they would at least give you the part number for it.
Why not grind the crankshaft and get the bearings from Komatsu ?
ive tried komatsu, no good, crankshaft is no where, im down now to seeing about getting it welded and ground back to specs, i dont have the resourses to find over sized bearing, ive got the parts list book and the shop manual, part number is 6201-31-1100, ive pretty much memorized the part number
 

Tinkerer

Senior Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
9,365
Location
The shore of the illinois river USA
Ya, I thought most folks would decline spending that much for a crankshaft. But I didn't know what kind of predicament you were in.
How many journals were damaged ?
I would have had it built back up and reground if it were mine.
You made a good choice. IMHO.
 

samsstuff

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
57
Location
tn
Ya, I thought most folks would decline spending that much for a crankshaft. But I didn't know what kind of predicament you were in.
How many journals were damaged ?
I would have had it built back up and reground if it were mine.
You made a good choice. IMHO.
only one journal and its not terribly bad, but bad enough to have be done, this is going to be a process for sure but itll be oh happy day when i get it back up running
 
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