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cylinder sleeve removal

samsstuff

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Apr 11, 2021
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tn
Has anybody had any dealings with removing the sleeves in a 3d95s engine, i pecked around a little and they look hard like cast, new kit comes with new sleeves, videos ive seen show using a small screwdriver to seperate it from the block then cut it with a chisel, thanks for any input
 

lantraxco

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Yeah, like that. I think somebody actually makes a sleeve splitting tool. I've seen them bored out, and I can't swear to it but I think one guy used a torch to heat cool and shrink, and another liquid nitrogen? YMMV
 

DMiller

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In the Olden Days as a mekanik
We would connect a arc welder and stick weld a bead top to bottom inside dry sleeves
Once cooled would pull right out

Had a salamander heater warming the block then Dry ice(more common than N2 here) the sleeves shut down heat install sleeves post haste!!
 

samsstuff

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Apr 11, 2021
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57
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tn
Yeah, like that. I think somebody actually makes a sleeve splitting tool. I've seen them bored out, and I can't swear to it but I think one guy used a torch to heat cool and shrink, and another liquid nitrogen? YMMV
i was thinking about dry ice, i tried the little screw driver deal, it seems like the sleeve wants to live there, been there since 1989 so i guess ill have be innovative
 

56wrench

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i would use the heat and shrink method as opposed to chiseling. you do not want to gouge or damage the block. there has to be a smooth and clean block bore for the dry liners to contact for proper heat transfer. damage to the block may cause hot spots to develop in the liner which may lead to localized distortion or soft spots in an otherwise hard liner. the old saying applies---do it right, do it once. most dry liners i have encountered have a small interference fit, in the neighborhood of .0005 (1/2 a thousandth) of an inch
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
In the Olden Days as a mekanik
We would connect a arc welder and stick weld a bead top to bottom inside dry sleeves
Once cooled would pull right out

Had a salamander heater warming the block then Dry ice(more common than N2 here) the sleeves shut down heat install sleeves post haste!!
Another vote for the welding machine to get the old ones out and dry ice (or LN2 if available) to install the replacements.
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I think a couple time used a heating tip on a acetylene torch to hear a strip done one or two sides then let cool. Also works to get steel bushings out of a loader arm.
 

John C.

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I don’t know of any 95 series Komatsu engine that has liners from the factory.
 

kshansen

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It sure don't look like mine has liners, I haven't killed anything yet but it don't look like liners in mine
Wonder if the kit just assumes that the bores are bad and will need to be sleeved?

Looking on line and seems like some kits have sleeves and some don't.
 
Last edited:

John C.

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I don't recall Komatsu making any repair sleeve kits available for any of their parent block engines.
 

Tenwheeler

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Dec 15, 2016
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Georgia
On some Hino,s and Isuzu,s we weld them like the old Perkins to get them out. Dry ice going in. Something like a teflon block might be good. Most dropped right in. One got 80% of the way in and stopped. The temperature causes them to expand quickly. We had an oak block handy and went on it with a hammer. That worked but looking at the wood trash on the block we were lucky. Liner height was correct.
Make sure yours has replaceable sleeves. I did a Long and the kit came with sleeves. Had no book, I looked long and hard. It was not a sleeved block. Those were to be pressed in after the block was bored. Cylinders had little wear so we honed them and rebuilt the engine in the tractor.
 

old-iron-habit

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In the Olden Days as a mekanik
We would connect a arc welder and stick weld a bead top to bottom inside dry sleeves
Once cooled would pull right out

Had a salamander heater warming the block then Dry ice(more common than N2 here) the sleeves shut down heat install sleeves post haste!!

Works for bearing races also. When we built Antelope Valley in ND Id get asked to go up to the temporary field shop with a portable and weld beads on races every once in a while on the 660s back wheel bearing races.
 

samsstuff

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Apr 11, 2021
Messages
57
Location
tn
Wonder if the kit just assumes that the bores are bad and will need to be sleeved?

Looking on line and seems like some kits have sleeves and some don't.
I got the kit, it came with liners, im about sure my block has liners, thing is the new liners dont fit the pistons, itll have be bored to fit new pistons, new pistons fit my block but the problem is ive boogered it up a little trying get liners out and may blow the head gasket if i try use new pistons in old sleeves, prob gonna have take it to somebody cause ill tear something up trying sleeves out
 

samsstuff

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Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
57
Location
tn
On some Hino,s and Isuzu,s we weld them like the old Perkins to get them out. Dry ice going in. Something like a teflon block might be good. Most dropped right in. One got 80% of the way in and stopped. The temperature causes them to expand quickly. We had an oak block handy and went on it with a hammer. That worked but looking at the wood trash on the block we were lucky. Liner height was correct.
Make sure yours has replaceable sleeves. I did a Long and the kit came with sleeves. Had no book, I looked long and hard. It was not a sleeved block. Those were to be pressed in after the block was bored. Cylinders had little wear so we honed them and rebuilt the engine in the tractor.
my worry as far as using what i got is ive chipped small place bout 1/8 inch at the top of the block trying see if its got a sleeve, head gasket might blow and there ill be pulling motor again, gonna take it let somebody look at it and see
 

lantraxco

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Dry sleeves almost always are designed to be bored and honed to size after installation. Perkins tried made to size sleeves way back when, but to often they didn't end up round after installing. YMMV
 
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