Cat 426 Steering Cylinder Removal

[graywarrant]

Steering cylinder is leaking hydraulic fluid, I need to rebuild.

SN: 7BC02306 uses a 9T1493 CYLINDER GP-STEERING to the best of my research ability.

I have searched using google as well as this sites search function and find a lot of references to the 416 steering cylinder, but I have not seen anything specific to the 426.

According to the info I have via SIS, disassembly involves removing hydraulic connections, the tie-rod ends, four bolts on each side and removing the cylinder out on the curbside of the machine.

Is there something I am missing? I have the steering cylinder down to the point that I should be able to pull it out to the curbside of the machine, but it seems to hit a hard stop. Reading about the 416 steering cylinder and it seems there is a circlip in that model, but no mention of the same in the documentation I have for the removal of the steering cylinder in the 426.

There is a gland nut on the roadside and I have broken my spanner wrench trying to move it a fraction of an inch.
(BTW, I purchased the spanner (and three cylinder rebuild kits) online from HW Part Store and I emailed them late yesterday asking about their return policy on the wrench. I received notification this AM that "I" had successfully ordered the same spanner and the cost to include shipping was $0 - way better customer service than I was expecting)

Is this gland nut supposed to come out?

Do I just hit the roadside end of the cylinder with a big deadblow?

Obviously something is missing in the knowledge.

Thank you for your advice -

Ray

 

[Nige]

Dunno where you got your SIS information. Here is the procedure and it doesn't seem quite the same as you describe.
If the cylinder doesn't want to move you may require a decent block of hardwood and an FBH to shock it loose.

 

[graywarrant]

Nige -

Thanks for the reply, your attached document is what I am using, I just shortened/paraphrased the steps.

I'm stuck with removing flange (3) from the roadside of the cylinder. In the first photo on page one, it appears that their is a gland nut of some kind on that flange, but no reference to its removal. Once I got stuck, I figured something was missing from the directions and attempted to remove what I think is a gland nut, though it is not shown in the parts breakdown.

Any clue on how to get that flange off?

So a sharp rap or twelve with a FBH (deadblow) should drive it out? And I am hitting the cylinder on the roadside of the machine driving it to the curbside?

BTW - still working the transmission, drain, fluid flush, alignment of FNR linkage and still no forward movement, resigning myself to a rebuild.

Ray

 

[Nige]

So the flange you are having trouble with is the one on the LH side of the machine (circled in blue) that supposedly has to be removed before the cylinder can be driven to the right to remove it.?

As far as I can see there is only a "hexagon" on the RH side which with the flange forms the head of the cylinder. It does not remove separately until the cylinder is out of the machine..

EDIT: Hoooooold the bus..........
Is there a hexagon on the LH side or the RH side of the machine.?
It should be on the RH side.
if it's on the LH side what's the betting that someone has had the cylinder off before and installed it incorrectly from left to right instead of right to left.?
How about some photos..?

 

[Dave Neubert]

that flange circled number 13 has to slide off the barrel number 12 it is just sealed by o rings I always pry on the right side and slide it off. Can you put a bolt back in on left side and rotate the cylinder any that might loosen it up. maybe corrosion got in there and froze it up. I have never had any trouble

 

[graywarrant]

The first two images are curbside, or RH when seated in the operators station facing forward. If I am understanding you correctly, the hexagon is on this side. This is also the side the steering cylinder should slide out from.

The second two images are roadside, or LH when seated in the operators station facing forward. This is the side I think has a gland nut on it.

 

[Nige]

The last photo. Is the end of the cylinder barrel that is poking out of the gland corroded or has it had heat on it on some previous occasion.?

Dave’s idea above ought to work.

 

[graywarrant]

The last photo. Is the end of the cylinder barrel that is poking out of the gland corroded or has it had heat on it on some previous occasion.?

Dave’s idea above ought to work.

Funny story. Older mechanic said heat it up and then hit with a fire extinguisher to rapidly cool it down - he forgot to mention it should be a carbon dioxide extinguisher and not a dry chemical. Funny moment.

Added a couple videos to utube (hopefully not against the rules)

https://youtube.com/shorts/kL1qln-dW7A?feature=share

I got called in by the boss and didn't get to Dave's suggestion of "Can you put a bolt back in on left side and rotate the cylinder any that might loosen it up." I'll give that a try tomorrow.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Nige]

A bit of heat on that (allegedly) loose LH side gland before you beat the bejasus out of it might not be a bad thing either.

 

[graywarrant]

Is #12 threaded into #2? I don't think it is, but maybe.

#9 slides freely within #12, so the sticking is between #12, #13 and #2 - correct?

What is the purpose of the hexagon on the RH flange?

Any chance that the RH oil line fitting is threaded deep enough in through #13 to be catching #12?

 

[Dave Neubert]

pretty sure the right side is threaded the left side slides on and is sealed by O rings the hex on the right is so you can unscrew it. 2 is threaded on to 12. 13 slides on to 12. Looks like a lot of rust I suspect it is corroded you need to work on 13 and get it off first

 

[Nige]

What is the purpose of the hexagon on the RH flange?
Is #12 threaded into #2? I don't think it is, but maybe

That "flange" #2 is actually the head of the steering cylinder. It has to be unscrewed so that the piston/rod assembly can be removed. The threads on the end of the cylinder #12 & and on the inside of the head can be clearly seen.

Step 4 of the disassembly instructions clearly states ........... "Unscrew head (9) from the cylinder body."

 

[graywarrant]

I always pry on the right side and slide it off.

Dave -

When you say "pry on the right side" are you prying between the axle Fram and flange #2?

Heated it and beat on it a while tonight - no movement.

 

[Dave Neubert]

Yes it don't really matter what side you pry on. have you been able to rock the left side back and forth to try to free it up with the right side bolted up or does it just rotate in the threads

 

[Dave Neubert]

have you tried un bolting the left side and use the loader hyd pressure to pop it out you would have to steer it to the right i think to pressurize the left side or hook up a grease gun to it and pump a lot of grease into it to force it apart or hook up a porta power pump to it they are good for a lot more pressure than the loader hyd

 

[graywarrant]

With bolts in on the RH side, I am able to rock the LH flange, but it is just rotating on the threads.

With bolts in on the RH side, I have locked a spanner wrench against the axle onto the "nut" on the LH side and have been able to rotate the LH flange without the cylinder #12 rotating, but still can not get that flange off.

Drove a screwdriver in about 3/8" on the LH Side and no luck getting it to pry off.

I only have a MAP torch, but clamped the trigger and positioned onto the gland for a good ten minutes, nothing moving.

I loosened the bolts on the RH Side a bit and tried driving it out from the LH side, still no movement. Though I can't get a good swing at it from that position. I will try that process again with the LH wheel off and a helper. Unless you guys feel that is going to damage something.

I did get the one swing cylinder rebuilt and reinstalled last night - happy for that success.

Appreciate the continued input -

 

[Dave Neubert]

Did you try my other suggestion

 

[graywarrant]

Did you try my other suggestion

I tried reconnecting the hydraulics and that didn’t work. I don’t have a porta-power pump. Didn’t try the grease gun.

What I did do that was successful is remove the tire, use jack stands to support a length of 4x4 wood and whack it with an 8# sledge.

That worked. The flange #13 had cruded/rusted itself to the cylinder #12 over the years.

All back together & leak free, thank you for the tips.

Now onto rebuilding the transmission.

 

[Dave Neubert]

Glad you got it apart

 

[Deanoo]

I tried reconnecting the hydraulics and that didn’t work. I don’t have a porta-power pump. Didn’t try the grease gun.

What I did do that was successful is remove the tire, use jack stands to support a length of 4x4 wood and whack it with an 8# sledge.

That worked. The flange #13 had cruded/rusted itself to the cylinder #12 over the years.

All back together & leak free, thank you for the tips.

Now onto rebuilding the transmission.

Sounds like a good plan
I am going to try this on my 416 tomorrow.