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Dresser Td8g won’t grade to save my life

johndeere2240

Active Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
37
Location
Gadsden AL
Occupation
Owner at New Hope Contracting
Front idler flange height measuring 0.60 (new)
Top roller diameter measuring
6.00 (new)
Bottom rollers measuring
6.85-6.75 20%-0% life
Idk if this is my problem but I don’t think new rollers will hurt anything except my wallet.
The book tells to shim the front idler wear plates to .06 and that is all, so they want the idler pretty much down on the track frame, but there is no procedure that I can find center the front idler to the sprocket? It has shims on each side under the “thrust plates” I believe the book calls them, but the only instructions I see are to put the shims back like you found them? It looks like at the moment the shims are split, the same amount on both sides, but should I be checking to see if that has it in line with the sprocket? And if so how to I go about doing that?
 

colson04

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 11, 2016
Messages
2,057
Location
Delton, Michigan
Yes , I prefer wide tracks. 1000 times yes !
Only for finish grade, especially on slopes. Doesn't matter if it is sub-grading them or spreading black dirt.
LPG's will go on slopes in terrible conditions. Even in decent material the LPG can turn quite fast and not tear up your work.
Some slope work required a D6 to get decent production. The size (area) determined if a D6 was a better choice.
For smaller ditches and smaller slopes I was in hog heaven on a John Deere 450 (any series). 6 way blades also increased an operators production per hour.
If the blade could only be angled it would be like being in a fist fight with one hand tied behind your back !
The contractor I spent most of my career with didn't buy any wide tracked dozers without a 6 way blade.
Cutting bigger slopes such as following scrapers required a D8 to be able to keep up with them.
Sorry for being long winded post, but after running dozers for about 30 years I could go on and about running them.

I'm listening...
 

HATCHEQUIP

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
1,147
Location
VILLANOW GEORGIA
stringline under the bottom from sprocket to idler and then over the top if the carrier rollers on this model are adjustable to adjust them and measure center of sprockets side to side and center of idlers side to side measurements should be the same this last should be done after making sure the roller frame pivots are tight to keep it from toeing in and out.
Question someone else might know a long track has 6 bottom rollers and wouldn't a lgp have 6 also
 

johndeere2240

Active Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
37
Location
Gadsden AL
Occupation
Owner at New Hope Contracting
Though someone might have put standard frames on it
Thought someone might have put standard frames on it
Hatch I know what you mean thinking the lgp would have 6 rollers but i don’t believe it does, I think they came in a standard track, wide track, and lgp, then long track, and the long track is the only 6 roller frame, the others are just different pad widths, with the wide track and lgp having the wider crossbar and dead axel to move the frames out for the pads to clear.
Somebody feel to correct me if I’m wrong on this
 

Bluox

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Front idler flange height measuring 0.60 (new)
Top roller diameter measuring
6.00 (new)
Bottom rollers measuring
6.85-6.75 20%-0% life
Idk if this is my problem but I don’t think new rollers will hurt anything except my wallet.
The book tells to shim the front idler wear plates to .06 and that is all, so they want the idler pretty much down on the track frame, but there is no procedure that I can find center the front idler to the sprocket? It has shims on each side under the “thrust plates” I believe the book calls them, but the only instructions I see are to put the shims back like you found them? It looks like at the moment the shims are split, the same amount on both sides, but should I be checking to see if that has it in line with the sprocket? And if so how to I go about doing that?
Boy you sure like doing under carriage the hard way.
I'm getting old enough I don't like crawling under little tractors so I jack the tractor up ,split the track and take the track frame off.
Turn the track frame over and set it on heavy steel saw horses, much easier to work on.
When you put the new rollers on you can center the front idler.
When you put the track frame back on you center the drive sprocket to the back roller.
Looks like you have too many shims in the idler wear strips.
Good luck
Bob
 
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