Battery Terminal Wires Overheating Tractor Stops Working

[Yardi]

I am new to the tractor world and purchased a, I think, 1986 JCB 201S; it has these #s on a metal plate on the left side of the roof 86/296UK92AF71593 and 86/295UK92AR71593, it also said that the machine was from England.

Initially, it started, but soon after while being used it shuts down.

I had someone check it out and they said that there is an electrical problem because the terminal wires, both + and -, are overheating. Felt both wires and he was correct. He did not do any other diagnosis.

Now the tractor has a slow crank and will not start with the terminal wires overheating.

What could be the problem?

 

[Delmer]

I think you have an electrical problem

Up to you to figure out what kind of electrical problem. I'd start with the battery, disconnect the ground cable, put a battery charger on it till it's completely charged, let it sit and check the voltage after a day or a week, if the voltage is still good, try to start it and see what the voltage is with it running. Or swap a known good battery in and try to start it and check the running voltage.

 

[jimg984]

could be the starter is not disenaging

 

[edgephoto]

Start by voltage dropping both cables. Could be as simple as a bad connection.

 

[seville009]

Replace the battery cables

 

[mitch504]

Yeah, like Jimg said, your initial description sounds like the solenoid stuck

 

[Yardi]

Thanks for the feedback.

Will follow your advices and update.

 

[John C.]

It’s a JCB which known for lots of electrical issues. Warm cables should only happen with a huge draw of amperage and a lot of resistance. Think corroded terminals and cables or a starter that is shorting through.

 

[funwithfuel]

Dont forget the pre heat relay if it has one. I had one of those bit me in the backside.

 

[Tinkerer]

If there is any swelling of the cables, they are being corroded on the inside. Replacement is the only practical solution.

 

[funwithfuel]

Not trying to sound like a jag here, your opening statement doesn't give the impression you have much troubleshooting experience. If you want to tackle this head on , we're here to help, guide and coach. The first thing I would suggest is purchasing a cheapy voltmeter from say harbor freight or something. You can accomplish a lot with an inexpensive tool. Perform voltage measurement of the battery at rest, then measure voltage drop towards starter. If you don't understand, say so, we'll guide you through it. When I say we, there are so many knowledgeable members here who want to help. When you post a response, one guy might be at work or half way across the world. There's always someone to pick up and offer the next step. You'll benefit from decades of experience, different points of view and different ways to skin a cat.

 

[Yardi]

Funwithfuel, u r correct, I do not have a lot of troubleshooting experience and have a voltmeter.

So, my all means, deligently walk me through the troubleshooting steps. I will not b offended

 

[funwithfuel]

So, let's cover basics. Check your battery voltage. You should see about 12.5 volts. If you've got a 10 or even 8, we may have one or more shorted cells. That will load an alternator hard.
Next, Measure voltage from positive post to frame, then to engine block, then to the starter and last to the alternator. Write down all your results so you can keep track. Now do the same thing but this time measure from battery negative post to starter and alternator. If you see a sharp voltage drop between one reading and the next, it's a good place to start looking.
Good luck.

 

[Bls repair]

Jack up the radiator cap and put a new machine under it

 

[Yardi]

Thanks.

 

[kshansen]

Jack up the radiator cap and put a new machine under it

Well I only ever had to deal with one JCB product, a skid-steer, so I may be biased but I would question the idea of saving the radiator cap!

 

[Welder Dave]

Look for rust and corrosion where ground wires are bolted to the frame too.

 

[dixon700]

So, let's cover basics. Check your battery voltage. You should see about 12.5 volts. If you've got a 10 or even 8, we may have one or more shorted cells. That will load an alternator hard.
Next, Measure voltage from positive post to frame, then to engine block, then to the starter and last to the alternator. Write down all your results so you can keep track. Now do the same thing but this time measure from battery negative post to starter and alternator. If you see a sharp voltage drop between one reading and the next, it's a good place to start looking.
Good luck.

You made it seem easy explaining that. I was trying to think how to explain performing volt drops. You should also have a load on the circuit while testing to help flush out any corrosion issues. Either cranking while testing or a small load from a carbon pile tester. To be able to crank without it starting just remove the power from the fuel shut off solenoid.

 

[funwithfuel]

I agree, but with limited exposure to troubleshooting and repairs, this was adequate for a first step. I'm waiting to see his results so we can guide him to the next step.

 

[Willie B]

Battery cables are intended for hundreds of amps over a brief period. If you have a meltdown you likely have either a heavy load or a continuous load. Inspect the cables from battery to wherever they go. One is ground, it'll go from battery to the frame of the tractor. Might be a disconnect switch. If it has an insulation failure, it won't overheat. Pretty important all connections be sound.

The other cable likely runs to the solenoid. Your machine is British so likely different, but positive is live. From this point it should all branch. My first impulse is a stuck solenoid, or starter drive still engaged, but check for a starter still spinning with engine running.