• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

New or Overhauled Engine break-in

spitzair

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
1,010
Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
Hello Everyone,
I recently rebuilt the engine in my Bobcat 732 and am wondering what is the best break-in procedure I should be using? The book really doesn't say and doing a google search gives all kinds of different opinions that are sometimes quite contradictory... This particular engine is a small Ford industrial gas engine if that makes any difference...
Thanks guys!
 

lumberjack

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2011
Messages
1,044
Location
Columbus, MS
Of the millions of used machines that have been sold, have you ever seen an ad having anything related to how the engine was broken in?

Fire it up, watch the gauges, and put it to work.
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,870
Location
Northwest
Occupation
Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
Diesels need to be loaded up pretty quickly after the first start up. When I was doing them all the time the procedure was generally all the same. Make sure fluids were at the proper levels. Pre-lube the engine if possible. Make sure all the air is out of the cooling system. Light off for a few minutes to check for leaks. Shut down and check levels again. Start and low idle for five to ten minutes. Gradually raise the RPM to high idle and then start putting a load on. If you have a machine with a torque converter, then do stalls on and off for at least a half an hour. Run the torque temp up just below the hot mark and then release till the gauge is at normal temp and repeat. If you have a hydraulic machine, then find a way to load with the implements. You need to pull the engine RPM down at least a couple of hundred and maintain for a bit. After that do a cool down for ten minutes or so, shut down and recheck levels. You should be good to go after that. I also change engine oil at about half the usual hours on the first go round. Then will be wear in debris in the bottom of the pan and in the oil filter.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,492
Location
Canada
A gas engine in a skid steer I think just use it. Skid steers normally run full throttle so just vary the load occasionally without lugging it too much.
 

spitzair

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
1,010
Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
Thanks guys, I appreciate your replies. One of these days when I have something for the machine to do I will do as suggested. I have new filters and oil on hand and after the first hour or so I will do a full oil change and cut the filter open to make sure there's no massive chunks in there...
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,492
Location
Canada
You can go more than an hour on the break in oil. Just use it like a new machine. Change the oil at about 50 hours.
 

skata

Senior Member
Joined
May 10, 2007
Messages
1,541
Location
midwest
What kinda cam is in it? Roller or flat tappet? Oil selection is critical.
Gotta have zinc for flat tappet
This is the most important thing . If it's flat tappet, you should follow what's recommended. If it's a roller cam, then the only thing breaking in are the piston rings. And they usually say run it hard to break them in. Don't do extended idling.
 

spitzair

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
1,010
Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
Thanks guys, It's a flat tappet cam, and one of my co-workers gave me a zinc additive to put in the oil. I'm waiting for something for it to do that will give it a good workout so I can run it hard as you guys are suggesting. Here's a picture of the engine back in the machine.
 

Attachments

  • 27AF2D15-57B0-4EC4-B1CF-9D303BDD9D30.jpeg
    27AF2D15-57B0-4EC4-B1CF-9D303BDD9D30.jpeg
    3.5 MB · Views: 21
Last edited:

funwithfuel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
5,575
Location
Will county Illinois
Occupation
Mechanic
It's a little late to ask... were the cam and lifters replaced? Did you coat em up good with the assembly lube recommended? This little bit is where everyone has their make or brake moment. Is it hydraulic lifters or solid tappets?
 
Last edited:

spitzair

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
1,010
Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
It's a little late to ask... were the cam and lifters replaced? Did you coat em up good with the assembly lube recommended? This little bit is where everyone has their make or brake moment. Is it hydraulic lifters or solid tappets?
I reused the original cam and lifters, they measured out to new spec so I lubed them up generously and reinstalled them. They are solid tappets.
 

funwithfuel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
5,575
Location
Will county Illinois
Occupation
Mechanic
As long as everyone went back where they came from, you'll be fine. Still need zinc, but the break in period is less critical if you're using a used cam. New cam and lifters have to get married. That's why the prolonged high rpm break in. They're basically wearing into one another for long life.
 
Top