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24 ft goose neck rewire

banditman

Active Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
40
Location
randolph utah
I got a 24 foot goose neck flatbed that needs to be rewired. What i would like to know is what is the best method for doing this? Should i buy a long piece of 7 strand wire and run all the way down and wire the lights brakes ect off that or should i run individual wires to do each light and brake? What are the best wire connectors for being in a salty wet environment? The trailer has dual tail lights meaning that there are two on the right and two on the left and they have never worked correctly should both lights blink when your signaling or just one? Should i add a junction box up at the front to connect everything to?
 

Spud_Monkey

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
6,435
Location
Your six
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Decommissioned
I got a 24 foot goose neck flatbed that needs to be rewired. What i would like to know is what is the best method for doing this? Should i buy a long piece of 7 strand wire and run all the way down and wire the lights brakes ect off that or should i run individual wires to do each light and brake? What are the best wire connectors for being in a salty wet environment? The trailer has dual tail lights meaning that there are two on the right and two on the left and they have never worked correctly should both lights blink when your signaling or just one? Should i add a junction box up at the front to connect everything to?
Junction box up front then run 7 strand wire to first axle and then split it off from there to brakes and remainder wires to the back going down one side. I Suggest Ancor heat shrink connectors, never use wire nuts, those are for solid wire only. Depends on the bulb type if the two lights on back should blink together or just one or are they LED's?
 

banditman

Active Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
40
Location
randolph utah
Junction box up front then run 7 strand wire to first axle and then split it off from there to brakes and remainder wires to the back going down one side. I Suggest Ancor heat shrink connectors, never use wire nuts, those are for solid wire only. Depends on the bulb type if the two lights on back should blink together or just one or are they LED's?

They are LEDs
 

Ronsii

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
3,464
Location
Western Washington
Occupation
s/e Heavy equipment operator
Run the 7wire to the junction box then split the brake circuit off with 2 12ga. Double insulated brake wires and run them to each brake. Then you can run a 4wire to the tail lights and split off from there for the markers or run a separate marker wire right from the box if you wan to... Also most manufacturers run a ground wire with each circuit but to simplify things you could use the frame...and of course wire in the breakaway and battery at the box

And like others have said use good heat shrink connectors for all the connections.
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
No connectors for me. I still twist the wires and solder them solid the old fashioned way. Takes time which I got. Shrink the heat shrink over them and never touch them until the wire gets broke. Or when I forget to side the heat shrink on one end first and have to cut it to redo.
 

Ronsii

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
3,464
Location
Western Washington
Occupation
s/e Heavy equipment operator
Same here, I really like to solder and heat shrink with adhesive or liquid tape... but unfortunately some people want me to use crimpies instead... cause it's quicker... of well.... more work for later ;)
 

Spud_Monkey

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
6,435
Location
Your six
Occupation
Decommissioned
No connectors for me. I still twist the wires and solder them solid the old fashioned way. Takes time which I got. Shrink the heat shrink over them and never touch them until the wire gets broke. Or when I forget to side the heat shrink on one end first and have to cut it to redo.

Same here, I really like to solder and heat shrink with adhesive or liquid tape... but unfortunately some people want me to use crimpies instead... cause it's quicker... of well.... more work for later ;)
That’s what these do, just quicker. You stick wire in heat up and it solders then heat shrinks with adhesive.
https://www.grainger.com/product/TE-CONNECTIVITY-12-to-10-AWG-Splice-Connector-10K492
 

Ronsii

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
3,464
Location
Western Washington
Occupation
s/e Heavy equipment operator
Yep, I've replaced them before... they are very picky about the wire!!! if it ain't perfect and clean it will give you a high resistance connection which isn't the end of the world unless you happen to be drawing near limit on the wire ;)
 

Spud_Monkey

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2018
Messages
6,435
Location
Your six
Occupation
Decommissioned
Yep, I've replaced them before... they are very picky about the wire!!! if it ain't perfect and clean it will give you a high resistance connection which isn't the end of the world unless you happen to be drawing near limit on the wire ;)
Just dip it in some flux, all will be fine:p
 

Ronsii

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
3,464
Location
Western Washington
Occupation
s/e Heavy equipment operator
I actually keep flux pens and cigar torches with some 60/40 rosin solder in my side drawer in the little service truck I drive :) used to keep an assortment of adhesive shrink in there too but other guys kept using it... they don't know how to use solder though ;)
svctrk-drwr12.JPG
 
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