Yes! Sorry! Fat fingers and was in a hurry!you mean missing ball, not block, right?
I’ve looked, not very hard though, didn’t find anything.Any way to get a manufacturers diagram and or part list on this block that is better then what I already posted from the marklift service manual?
View attachment 202055
Could it be that ball inside the fitting, probably the one with needle valve? Anyway if it’s inside the fitting it’s got to be one with seals and it being cross point.
I understand what you're saying about drilling and plugging the passage between the two Inlet ports inside the block, but wondering if you could diagram the tees and where those lines would go?Yes! Sorry! Fat fingers and was in a hurry!
If the problem is missing ball: you can find one in places that sell fasteners, that’s if you have both seats for it!
If not - if it’s possible drill and tap for plug , to block the passage between two inlet port, but in line shuttle valve and plumb it outside the block with tee fittings.
Could it be that ball inside the fitting, probably the one with needle valve? Anyway if it’s inside the fitting it’s got to be one with seals and it being cross point.
Thanks TVA. Actually I completely bypassed the counterbalance valves and the drive brake manifold, and you can see this in the picture if you zoom up and follow the forward drive hose connections. But I did not plumb the parking brake needle valve into that direct line, because I just wanted to see if fluid was passing through the hydraulic motor through the return line.Plugging the shuttle valve will make you loosing the release of breaks. No return flow means your counterbalance valve is not working. As counterbalance controls the outlet of the motor.
It so happens they I’m currently working on the same thing but on a lot larger machine - 100 ton travel lift. Because of the water in the hydraulic fluid the tiny drain holes were plugged up which in turn led to hydro locking of counterbalance valve poppets resulting in bending and scoring of the plunger that push on the poppet by cross release piston.
Okay, so the ball bearing cannot be larger than 1/4 inch in order for it to drop down the cavity, but it must be larger than 5/32 so it does not come back through that retainer bushing that I photographed last night and posted. So I would say 3/16 or 7/32 inch ball bearing? Which would you suggest?It’s actually good news, because you have no cross port leakage! If nothing comes out of case drain it is another very good news!
Now all you need is cage (release) the breaks!
Just take the seat out, the one you unscrewed with Allen wrench, select ball bearing that matches the seat in diameter, drop the ball inside, don’t forget to use thread lock on that seat, and you should be OK!
It kinda looks like that bushing is one of two seats for the ball, it looks like ( if I’m not mistaken) first you need to drop the ball, than install the bushing, than tighten that bushing against the shoulder machined in the blocks body. Am I wrong?Okay, so the ball bearing cannot be larger than 1/4 inch in order for it to drop down the cavity, but it must be larger than 5/32 so it does not come back through that retainer bushing that I photographed last night and posted. So I would say 3/16 or 7/32 inch ball bearing? Which would you suggest?
Yes TVA, that is right, and that would be a 3/16 inch ball. But I'm curious, what would prevent that ball from blocking the other common outlet for that shuttle valve?View attachment 203068
It kinda looks like that bushing is one of two seats for the ball, it looks like ( if I’m not mistaken) first you need to drop the ball, than install the bushing, than tighten that bushing against the shoulder machined in the blocks body. Am I wrong?
If I’m right, then you need to select ball that will seal against the chamfer marked by red circles on the picture
Thank you, that makes perfect sense!Pressure differential! The side that has more pressure pushes the ball against the seat of the side that don’t have pressure, effectively sealing it from leakage to return circuit.
So would blue Loctite 242 be a good choice for that Allen screw seat? And I'm wondering would it be resistant to Dexron II transmission fluid, which is what this machine has for hydraulic oil?It’s actually good news, because you have no cross port leakage! If nothing comes out of case drain it is another very good news!
Now all you need is cage (release) the breaks!
Just take the seat out, the one you unscrewed with Allen wrench, select ball bearing that matches the seat in diameter, drop the ball inside, don’t forget to use thread lock on that seat, and you should be OK!
I use blue lock title in this application of any brand I can get my hands on! It’s important to use some kind of thread lock so the seat will not back out! As of compatibility of thread lock with fluid - you got to read up on it or contact manufacturer or the distributor. I mostly deal with hydraulic oil.So would blue Loctite 242 be a good choice for that Allen screw seat? And I'm wondering would it be resistant to Dexron II transmission fluid, which is what this machine has for hydraulic oil?