Yes it’s spring suspension hendrikson beam I think? 14 front, 40 rears. It had a plow on it at some point. 300k miles but speed reads about 20% low from my estimate, neither hour meter works. It fires up instantly in the morning. It needs some work and maintainaince for sure but really happy with it.
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Buying older dump
- Thread starter suladas
- Start date
DMiller
Senior Member
Use the splits to your advantage, the 3406 will lug but they do not like it and unless you are watching a pyrometer things can heat to destructive pretty quick. Let the engine breath and work at its peak performance rpms.
What RPM would be lugging it? I was downshifting at 1500 before, doesn't sound like it's lugging at that yet. What would be the top RPM to be running on the highway? Been keeping it at 1700, not sure if it would be ok to go higher or not.
Going to be doing some maintenance like oil change, fuel filter, air filter, belts. The air box is kind of rusted, was thinking of trying a wrecker for a replacement. As far as the diffs and tranny, I was thinking of changing those fluids to, but no idea how? Is it something I should just let the shop do? Is there anything else maintenance wise I should be doing?
RZucker
Senior Member
Every piece of used equipment I have ever purchased gets a complete fluid change, right down to the power steering. All fluids were drained into a clean container so I could look for problems (metal chunks, coolant in the engine oil, etc.). I dropped the oil in the front axle of a Cat 960B loader once and it sounded like marbles hitting the pan (bearing rollers, win some, lose some).
The trans and rear end changes are not that difficult, drain out the bottom and pump into the fill hole. See if you can find out which oils the previous owner was running. Personally I like synthetic gear lubes anymore. mostly because you don't stink of sulphur after rebuilding one.
Ok great, then i'm right in the range. I'm shocked so far how easy on fuel it is. Was nearly on empty, 50 gallons in and moved hoe twice, fairly long cross city moves and if gauge is somewhat accurate haven't even burned half of it yet.
Mother Deuce
Senior Member
Making max torque at 1300. I used to run mine at 1800ish. Great engine
Oh yes, coolant and power steering change for sure to. Figure might as well do as much as I can myself instead of paying shop $120/hr to do it. Previous owner never changed them, so have no idea what was in them.
RZucker
Senior Member
Ran one in an '86 Freightliner that came from DCC Chambers, Had the Canadian spread and a 20 spd Spicer. The thing was set to run at 1400 to 1600, if you couldn't maintain a load (lug) on the engine past 1600 it just fell on its face. It would pull to 2000 if it was loaded heavy. I don't know how they set their pumps but it had a black haze when it idled, and could really smoke things up when you were getting started out.
RZucker
Senior Member
There should be a filter in the power steering reservoir and depending on whether it was running red or green coolant there may be a coolant filter. If you are going to run red coolant take it off, plug the holes, and throw the thing away.
Truck Shop
Senior Member
The 3406 B came in several high end rpm ranges. Most produced in the late 80's and early 90's fuel shut off at 1800 rpm, but can be refigured to 2000 rpm and they run better at that upper range. IMO
I had three recalibrated for 2000 from 1800 rpm and the difference is well worth it. A friend that worked at Cat for years is probably the best Cat injection pump rebuilder I have ever run on to. He has
a large file on 3406B and C performance specs and ratings, When harvest is over for him, I'm going to copy off the many pages of 3406B & C specs and hopefully post them here under a sticky file so
everyone has a source of info at their finger tips.
I had three recalibrated for 2000 from 1800 rpm and the difference is well worth it. A friend that worked at Cat for years is probably the best Cat injection pump rebuilder I have ever run on to. He has
a large file on 3406B and C performance specs and ratings, When harvest is over for him, I'm going to copy off the many pages of 3406B & C specs and hopefully post them here under a sticky file so
everyone has a source of info at their finger tips.
DMiller
Senior Member
If no coolant filter will need a supplement to add and USED to be done by test strips for concentration, have not had to do that in awhile so not certain how is done these days. Green Coolant has a initial load of corrosion control chemicals, is Not enough generally to control Electrolysis and combustion pressure caused liner Cavitation, follow instructions unless has a Filter then just change on intervals. Orange Semi Permanent AntiFreeze I have not dealt with on the newer big engines, Listen to the Words of wisdom of others here.
DMiller
Senior Member
Stick with what was in it. Swapping involves flushing and chemical applications to remove residual of the previous material(incompatibility) where not all that great on a older engine/cooling system.
Yea that does sound easier.
Question, where would be the best place to source filters? There is a Finning close by, as well as Western Star dealer, Cummins, almost all places. Current fuel and oil are fleetguard which is why I mentioned Cummins, mostly wondering about air filter if that will be tougher to find? Couldn't find a brand or part number on it. Would matching the size work?
DMiller
Senior Member
WS Dealer likely will carry OEM Cat, Finning will have what you need but could be pricey, Fleetguard I never had issues with but filter companies are flighty at best as to subcontract on certain off makes filters. Do NOT go FRAM or Wix, WIX have changed in the last few years, not sure why but both are crappy, NAPA and Parts House Distributor no names I will use on a Car but nothing HD. Donaldson is the Name to trust on Air Filters or OE from WS, should be a number somewhere on it otherwise the Dealer should be able to determine what was in it.
Nige
Senior Member
If I can jump in here I wouldn't trust Fleetguard filters as far as I could throw them, despite Fleetguard being part of Cummins.
Donaldson are the only one I would personally recommend although there must be some other good aftermarket (i.e. non-OEM) brands out there.
Donaldson are the only one I would personally recommend although there must be some other good aftermarket (i.e. non-OEM) brands out there.
Just out of curiosity what's your beef with fleet guard I was always under the impression they were pretty good
I always thought wix was decent not necessarily the best but good and anything was better than baldwin
DMiller
Senior Member
All I can achieve for my Allis Loader is thru Baldwin, Knock on my wooden head No Issues so far and Yes, I am NOT fond of them.