heymccall
Senior Member
That's funny. My 4 TB180FR are all 12 volt, and, according to the TB175 parts manuals, they are 12 volt, too.
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Takeuchi TB035!! new to me have some questions
- Thread starter Fourtencustoms
- Start date
That's funny. My 4 TB180FR are all 12 volt, and, according to the TB175 parts manuals, they are 12 volt, too.
heymccall
Senior Member
See, you (I) learn something new every day. Some TB175 are 24 volt.
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
interesting! I am 99.9% sure this is a 12V system, my machine has been hacked together before I even got it.
The factory ignition switch was just sitting there under the console not even hooked up anymore, they grabbed two wires and ran them directly to and from the starter, the fuel pump feed is stock(ish) though and it comes from a 12V fuse. The first thing I did was re do all their shotty wiring and insulate, route, and re wire it properly.
I will put my multi meter on it to be sure, but I did test the power going in and out of the stock fuse panel when I re wired it... I think Im good!
this tak will have a push button grid heater (cold start) which is also 12V and I am wiring that from scratch, the ignition switch and fuel pump circuits are already done. Some safeties have been bypassed like the left arm console does not move, no safety there, and the fuel cut off is now a manual cable.
Shes old, but she runs great and shes all mine!!
Keep the ideas coming, I really appreciate any and all advice...two heads are better than one.
The factory ignition switch was just sitting there under the console not even hooked up anymore, they grabbed two wires and ran them directly to and from the starter, the fuel pump feed is stock(ish) though and it comes from a 12V fuse. The first thing I did was re do all their shotty wiring and insulate, route, and re wire it properly.
I will put my multi meter on it to be sure, but I did test the power going in and out of the stock fuse panel when I re wired it... I think Im good!
this tak will have a push button grid heater (cold start) which is also 12V and I am wiring that from scratch, the ignition switch and fuel pump circuits are already done. Some safeties have been bypassed like the left arm console does not move, no safety there, and the fuel cut off is now a manual cable.
Shes old, but she runs great and shes all mine!!
Keep the ideas coming, I really appreciate any and all advice...two heads are better than one.
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
Hey neighbor!! I'm north of Ponderay ..........Athol is not far I drive through there all the time
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
Okay finally got some time to work on the Takeuchi! She has been running pretty well, when cold it can take a bit to get her started, but she stars way easier then before. I plan to add a new grid heater system before the snow falls, that should help with the cold starts.
I have fixed almost all of the leaks, she was still leaking a little oil. I thought it was coming from the dipstick tube, I have been monitoring it. Well it opened up and the leak got worse...so looking deeper into it, I think I found it. The oil feed line to the turbo developed a crack. So I went to remove it and bring it into the shop, I was hoping I could braze it shut. Nope.
the banjo bolt at the injection pump SNAPPED off clean! as soon as I went to move it.
So I spent the entire day on this issue yesterday.
First off nobody in town has a 8mm x 1.25 banjo bolt, and even if they did it would not be the "restrict or type" we have here (tiny feed hole)
After looking online I cannot find a banjo bolt that looks like this Yanmar one. So I made it myself.
drilled out a 8mm bolt...grabbed my trusty dusty harbor freight copper washer assortment and got it fixed.
3 attempts to braze the hole shut in the line failed, First with plumbing solder...nope wont stick. Then with "alumaweld" ALMOST sealed it up.... it held pressure just enough to pass the bucket of water and air hose test...but once installed on the machine...first a small drip of oil followed by a river. So the line came back off. I ended up cutting out the bad section, flaring both ends and using gates fuel line and clamps...its holding just fine now. Phew leak fixed! back to work
small leak turned into a river of oil very quickly so I was finally able to find this leak!
Split/crack:
Broken banjo, lucky for me the broken bit came right out with an easy out
built my own:
Alumaweld repair, I thought I had it
Had the line on and off the machine like 4 times yesterday! PITA!
First attempt with fuel line repair did not work...whoops I think my flare was too sharp and cut this hose, so I re did the flare
Checked her over, good news the final drives in the tracks are holding their gear lube jut fine. No other real leaks anymore, a tiny bit of hydro fluid leaks from under the pump, otherwise I think I have it beaten!
I also took this opportunity to do the coolant flush and fill, I cleaned out the radiator and oil cooler with air and water. I noticed the cooling fan has seen better days. I plan to replace it AND add a small e fan so when the temps climb I can bring them back down. So far after the flush and fill, a NEW air filter, and cleaning the cooling stack she runs right at 190.....nice! It used to climb to 220...then 230 and I shut it down. So far yesterday she stayed at 190.....but its only 75 out so it doesn't count.
Oh yeah and in town a couple of weeks ago I was shopping at the local outfitter store and I commented on the pry bars the people in front of me were holding. There was an issue with the register so while we waited I was making small talk with the nice people in front of me...the convo about the pry bars quickly turned to their uses when installing tracks on a excavator, that lead to us talking about putting tracks on our Takeuchi machines?? Turned out it was Rbrown225 from the forum!! What a small world eh? that was cool to run into him totally random in town.....
Anyone have a part number for the engine driven fan? in the book it just calls out the entire engine, no pat numbers for just the fan..
I have fixed almost all of the leaks, she was still leaking a little oil. I thought it was coming from the dipstick tube, I have been monitoring it. Well it opened up and the leak got worse...so looking deeper into it, I think I found it. The oil feed line to the turbo developed a crack. So I went to remove it and bring it into the shop, I was hoping I could braze it shut. Nope.
the banjo bolt at the injection pump SNAPPED off clean! as soon as I went to move it.
So I spent the entire day on this issue yesterday.
First off nobody in town has a 8mm x 1.25 banjo bolt, and even if they did it would not be the "restrict or type" we have here (tiny feed hole)
After looking online I cannot find a banjo bolt that looks like this Yanmar one. So I made it myself.
drilled out a 8mm bolt...grabbed my trusty dusty harbor freight copper washer assortment and got it fixed.
3 attempts to braze the hole shut in the line failed, First with plumbing solder...nope wont stick. Then with "alumaweld" ALMOST sealed it up.... it held pressure just enough to pass the bucket of water and air hose test...but once installed on the machine...first a small drip of oil followed by a river. So the line came back off. I ended up cutting out the bad section, flaring both ends and using gates fuel line and clamps...its holding just fine now. Phew leak fixed! back to work
small leak turned into a river of oil very quickly so I was finally able to find this leak!
Split/crack:
Broken banjo, lucky for me the broken bit came right out with an easy out
built my own:
Alumaweld repair, I thought I had it
Had the line on and off the machine like 4 times yesterday! PITA!
First attempt with fuel line repair did not work...whoops I think my flare was too sharp and cut this hose, so I re did the flare
Checked her over, good news the final drives in the tracks are holding their gear lube jut fine. No other real leaks anymore, a tiny bit of hydro fluid leaks from under the pump, otherwise I think I have it beaten!
I also took this opportunity to do the coolant flush and fill, I cleaned out the radiator and oil cooler with air and water. I noticed the cooling fan has seen better days. I plan to replace it AND add a small e fan so when the temps climb I can bring them back down. So far after the flush and fill, a NEW air filter, and cleaning the cooling stack she runs right at 190.....nice! It used to climb to 220...then 230 and I shut it down. So far yesterday she stayed at 190.....but its only 75 out so it doesn't count.
Oh yeah and in town a couple of weeks ago I was shopping at the local outfitter store and I commented on the pry bars the people in front of me were holding. There was an issue with the register so while we waited I was making small talk with the nice people in front of me...the convo about the pry bars quickly turned to their uses when installing tracks on a excavator, that lead to us talking about putting tracks on our Takeuchi machines?? Turned out it was Rbrown225 from the forum!! What a small world eh? that was cool to run into him totally random in town.....
Anyone have a part number for the engine driven fan? in the book it just calls out the entire engine, no pat numbers for just the fan..
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Regular brass/bronze brazing rod would have likely fixed the line. It looks like that might be how the line was originally made.
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
I agree
I did not have that stuff, I am not great at brazing rods, I can sweat pipes and solder wires...still new to brazing
I should have gone over to my Dad's he used to make jewelry......... but an already all day event would have turned into even bigger deal.....
Thanks for the tip! I was wondering what that brass colored stuff was called
I did not have that stuff, I am not great at brazing rods, I can sweat pipes and solder wires...still new to brazing
I should have gone over to my Dad's he used to make jewelry......... but an already all day event would have turned into even bigger deal.....
Thanks for the tip! I was wondering what that brass colored stuff was called
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7,504
- Location
- Sunny South Carolina
- Occupation
- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
YUP.. Brazing rod.. I had a customer afew weeks ago that sent me a broken injector line..
It was split at the "pipe".. from over tightening.
I heated the line w/an oxy torch & slipped off the ferrule.. cut off a small section of split line & used a brazing rod to re-attach the ferrule.. only took me 3 tries to re-attach it to where it wouldn't leak.. Lol
I sent it back w/ no warranty.. he said it sealed up like a clam shell. NO more leaks..
Theres def. an art to it tho..
It was split at the "pipe".. from over tightening.
I heated the line w/an oxy torch & slipped off the ferrule.. cut off a small section of split line & used a brazing rod to re-attach the ferrule.. only took me 3 tries to re-attach it to where it wouldn't leak.. Lol
I sent it back w/ no warranty.. he said it sealed up like a clam shell. NO more leaks..
Theres def. an art to it tho..
thepumpguysc
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7,504
- Location
- Sunny South Carolina
- Occupation
- Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
I know u like to "make things" 4-10, but all those pump parts coulda been had thru a fuel shop..
Just say'n..
I DO LIKE your handy-work tho..
I'm work'n w/ a fella right now that needs springs for his BobCat inj. pump.. Bobcat told.m 30.00 apiece & NO delivery date.. but atleast 2-3 weeks..
He gave me his pump #.. I looked up the parts in my "secret book" & can get'm tomorrow for 10.00 each..
Just say'n..
I DO LIKE your handy-work tho..
I'm work'n w/ a fella right now that needs springs for his BobCat inj. pump.. Bobcat told.m 30.00 apiece & NO delivery date.. but atleast 2-3 weeks..
He gave me his pump #.. I looked up the parts in my "secret book" & can get'm tomorrow for 10.00 each..
tool_king
Senior Member
What model is that machine ? I can email you the manuals if you like so you have them .Okay finally got some time to work on the Takeuchi! She has been running pretty well, when cold it can take a bit to get her started, but she stars way easier then before. I plan to add a new grid heater system before the snow falls, that should help with the cold starts.
I have fixed almost all of the leaks, she was still leaking a little oil. I thought it was coming from the dipstick tube, I have been monitoring it. Well it opened up and the leak got worse...so looking deeper into it, I think I found it. The oil feed line to the turbo developed a crack. So I went to remove it and bring it into the shop, I was hoping I could braze it shut. Nope.
the banjo bolt at the injection pump SNAPPED off clean! as soon as I went to move it.
So I spent the entire day on this issue yesterday.
First off nobody in town has a 8mm x 1.25 banjo bolt, and even if they did it would not be the "restrict or type" we have here (tiny feed hole)
After looking online I cannot find a banjo bolt that looks like this Yanmar one. So I made it myself.
drilled out a 8mm bolt...grabbed my trusty dusty harbor freight copper washer assortment and got it fixed.
3 attempts to braze the hole shut in the line failed, First with plumbing solder...nope wont stick. Then with "alumaweld" ALMOST sealed it up.... it held pressure just enough to pass the bucket of water and air hose test...but once installed on the machine...first a small drip of oil followed by a river. So the line came back off. I ended up cutting out the bad section, flaring both ends and using gates fuel line and clamps...its holding just fine now. Phew leak fixed! back to work
small leak turned into a river of oil very quickly so I was finally able to find this leak!
Split/crack:
Broken banjo, lucky for me the broken bit came right out with an easy out
built my own:
Alumaweld repair, I thought I had it
Had the line on and off the machine like 4 times yesterday! PITA!
First attempt with fuel line repair did not work...whoops I think my flare was too sharp and cut this hose, so I re did the flare
Checked her over, good news the final drives in the tracks are holding their gear lube jut fine. No other real leaks anymore, a tiny bit of hydro fluid leaks from under the pump, otherwise I think I have it beaten!
I also took this opportunity to do the coolant flush and fill, I cleaned out the radiator and oil cooler with air and water. I noticed the cooling fan has seen better days. I plan to replace it AND add a small e fan so when the temps climb I can bring them back down. So far after the flush and fill, a NEW air filter, and cleaning the cooling stack she runs right at 190.....nice! It used to climb to 220...then 230 and I shut it down. So far yesterday she stayed at 190.....but its only 75 out so it doesn't count.
Oh yeah and in town a couple of weeks ago I was shopping at the local outfitter store and I commented on the pry bars the people in front of me were holding. There was an issue with the register so while we waited I was making small talk with the nice people in front of me...the convo about the pry bars quickly turned to their uses when installing tracks on a excavator, that lead to us talking about putting tracks on our Takeuchi machines?? Turned out it was Rbrown225 from the forum!! What a small world eh? that was cool to run into him totally random in town.....
Anyone have a part number for the engine driven fan? in the book it just calls out the entire engine, no pat numbers for just the fan..
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
1998 TB035
I have the "owners manual" and "service index" books, but maybe there are better ones.
My book just shows the yanmar 3 cyl as part number 35 "engine"
no break down of engine parts
I would like part numbers for the engine cooling fan and this oil feed line.
As you guys may have guessed the rubber fuel line repair did not last.
It leaked, so I double clamped it, then that leaked so I went shopping for flared fittings. This line is basically 5/16" brake line, which I was able to find in town.
Then I found some Ford trans cooler lines lying around that the 5/16" fits inside of perfectly, so I made some sleeves and welded it all together.
Now as I am sure some of you who have been down this road before know it can be very tricky to weld up hydraulic lines (which is why they braze it together from factory)
Each time you lay down a bead or a tack, there is a spot when the bead starts and stops where pinhole leaks develop.
So you put another tack on top of that, moving the leak. The fix is to use more heat...get the base metal hot enough so the welder is just moving the pool around but WITHOUT blowing through the material.....its a fine line.
So after 3 weld attempts yesterday I have two small pinholes to still deal with....so today I go back grinding and welding until I get this sealed up.
I am the shop, nobody in town was interested in fixing this thing, I do not know of a "fuel shop" anywhere within 100 miles??
I can piece together the fittings and use clamps and flares and soft lines, or I can plumb it with brake line bits, or I can just finish fixing this line myself.
Just need to be a better welder, more practice. I am pretty good and today will be getting better...lots of research last night.
I am thinking of a way to put the whole line under vacuum, thus drawing the weld into the pinholes?? or just braze the pinhole leaks at this point?
I'm using my trusty Hobart 220V mig with co2/argon and its working fine on the lowest setting, I just need to put more heat into the weld so the base metal pools....
I have oxy/acc torch, I also have small 120V mig but no gas...
I am getting really good at R&R this line....I think it has been on and off about 10 times now...the machine is about 200 yards from the shop too...Good exercise!!
Thanks for the advice thus far!
If I can find this part from yanmar I would expect it to be $180-250 and take weeks to get.....
I do need a new engine cooling fan though, without having to remove the existing one first to compare parts with online pictures.
You guys rock!
I have the "owners manual" and "service index" books, but maybe there are better ones.
My book just shows the yanmar 3 cyl as part number 35 "engine"
no break down of engine parts
I would like part numbers for the engine cooling fan and this oil feed line.
As you guys may have guessed the rubber fuel line repair did not last.
It leaked, so I double clamped it, then that leaked so I went shopping for flared fittings. This line is basically 5/16" brake line, which I was able to find in town.
Then I found some Ford trans cooler lines lying around that the 5/16" fits inside of perfectly, so I made some sleeves and welded it all together.
Now as I am sure some of you who have been down this road before know it can be very tricky to weld up hydraulic lines (which is why they braze it together from factory)
Each time you lay down a bead or a tack, there is a spot when the bead starts and stops where pinhole leaks develop.
So you put another tack on top of that, moving the leak. The fix is to use more heat...get the base metal hot enough so the welder is just moving the pool around but WITHOUT blowing through the material.....its a fine line.
So after 3 weld attempts yesterday I have two small pinholes to still deal with....so today I go back grinding and welding until I get this sealed up.
I am the shop, nobody in town was interested in fixing this thing, I do not know of a "fuel shop" anywhere within 100 miles??
I can piece together the fittings and use clamps and flares and soft lines, or I can plumb it with brake line bits, or I can just finish fixing this line myself.
Just need to be a better welder, more practice. I am pretty good and today will be getting better...lots of research last night.
I am thinking of a way to put the whole line under vacuum, thus drawing the weld into the pinholes?? or just braze the pinhole leaks at this point?
I'm using my trusty Hobart 220V mig with co2/argon and its working fine on the lowest setting, I just need to put more heat into the weld so the base metal pools....
I have oxy/acc torch, I also have small 120V mig but no gas...
I am getting really good at R&R this line....I think it has been on and off about 10 times now...the machine is about 200 yards from the shop too...Good exercise!!
Thanks for the advice thus far!
If I can find this part from yanmar I would expect it to be $180-250 and take weeks to get.....
I do need a new engine cooling fan though, without having to remove the existing one first to compare parts with online pictures.
You guys rock!
heymccall
Senior Member
Parts manual https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw2h-O1ZCF9jXnq8XakXKVNQ
Pipe assy, lube oil...129139-39030
Fan, Cooling.............121520-44740
Pipe assy, lube oil...129139-39030
Fan, Cooling.............121520-44740
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
SWEET!!!!
Now that you posted that I found the pages in my book? Not sure how I missed the first time??
I filled out a parts request online for Takeuchi parts dealer...lets see what they say
THANK YOU!
Now that you posted that I found the pages in my book? Not sure how I missed the first time??
I filled out a parts request online for Takeuchi parts dealer...lets see what they say
THANK YOU!
Last edited:
heymccall
Senior Member
I tried them in my Anderson Equipment parts portal. Apparently, they've never sold them (not in price book).
May I (and your wallet) suggest that you price them through a Yanmar engine dealer.
My TB53FR radiator was significantly less expensive through a Yanmar engine dealer.
Basically, if it's in the engine section of the book, it can be had via a Yanmar engine dealer.
heymccall
Senior Member
Well, my Takeuchi dealer say $35.69 for the cooling fan. (Yes, $36).
But, that pipe number has to be searched deeper.
But, that pipe number has to be searched deeper.
Fourtencustoms
Well-Known Member
$36 I would order one now!!
For engine parts I will try Yanmar dealer, I like to shop around and save $$$ for sure.
Good news!
I ground down yesterday's final welds and the result is two tiny tiny leaks.
Easy to identify and fix...so I think I have the oil line licked! I was using more heat in my welds and it appears to have worked.
I did not persue the brazing repair very hard because I have learned with a stress or fatigue fracture like this it will return....sleeve and replace the bad section is a more permanent repair.
Also the work I did to the cooling system and replacing the air filter, the water temp has not risen above 190-195.
It will take a hot day to find out for sure, but the so far cooling issue may have been helped.
I suspect it was the air filter mostly as the cooling system parts were not very dirty and the coolant mixture was good.
A new fan would really help out as this one is missing at least half of one blade and the other blades have lots of missing material on the edges, it slammed into the shroud or something at some point.
You guys are awesome! Thank you....now I can finish loading the last two trailers of debris and this section of land will be ready for the box grader.
We do it like this, Case 350 dozer goes in and clears the brush...lays over all the larger trees we want down (under 10"), moves the bulk of the dirt around, then the Tak comes around and piles up the mess, does a little back filling and grading. Stacks up the debris and brush. The dozer is hooked to a military trailer to haul the brush over to our brush dump (embankment). The Tak is used to fill the trailers, but we use an old 33" tire and tow strap to empty the trailer loads onto the ground.
The finally the John Deer compact tractor (1984 650) comes with the bucket and box scraper to level and do the final smoothing. We have rakes and spreaders for our atv, so the girls drive around picking up the final sticks and spreading the Pacific Northwest ground cover (clover, grass mix)
So far the results are awesome! We have about 3 acres looking like a park, 3 more acres in the debris cleanup stage, and 3 more cleared of brush...pretty soon we will have increased the size of our usable land by at least 9 acres....in one short summer!! Machines are awesome.....worth every $$$$$
For engine parts I will try Yanmar dealer, I like to shop around and save $$$ for sure.
Good news!
I ground down yesterday's final welds and the result is two tiny tiny leaks.
Easy to identify and fix...so I think I have the oil line licked! I was using more heat in my welds and it appears to have worked.
I did not persue the brazing repair very hard because I have learned with a stress or fatigue fracture like this it will return....sleeve and replace the bad section is a more permanent repair.
Also the work I did to the cooling system and replacing the air filter, the water temp has not risen above 190-195.
It will take a hot day to find out for sure, but the so far cooling issue may have been helped.
I suspect it was the air filter mostly as the cooling system parts were not very dirty and the coolant mixture was good.
A new fan would really help out as this one is missing at least half of one blade and the other blades have lots of missing material on the edges, it slammed into the shroud or something at some point.
You guys are awesome! Thank you....now I can finish loading the last two trailers of debris and this section of land will be ready for the box grader.
We do it like this, Case 350 dozer goes in and clears the brush...lays over all the larger trees we want down (under 10"), moves the bulk of the dirt around, then the Tak comes around and piles up the mess, does a little back filling and grading. Stacks up the debris and brush. The dozer is hooked to a military trailer to haul the brush over to our brush dump (embankment). The Tak is used to fill the trailers, but we use an old 33" tire and tow strap to empty the trailer loads onto the ground.
The finally the John Deer compact tractor (1984 650) comes with the bucket and box scraper to level and do the final smoothing. We have rakes and spreaders for our atv, so the girls drive around picking up the final sticks and spreading the Pacific Northwest ground cover (clover, grass mix)
So far the results are awesome! We have about 3 acres looking like a park, 3 more acres in the debris cleanup stage, and 3 more cleared of brush...pretty soon we will have increased the size of our usable land by at least 9 acres....in one short summer!! Machines are awesome.....worth every $$$$$
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The problem with welding it, is it might crack in the heat affected zone beside the weld. There's a reason it wasn't welded from the factory. Tig welding maybe but that requires some precision welding that comes with experience. Brazing was the best method of repair.