Transmission for 1986 S1954 IH

[Tim Burke]

I’m cringing reading this. I also have an 86 S1954 and need to replace those rubber output lines.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

I’m cringing reading this. I also have an 86 S1954 and need to replace those rubber output lines.

Just close your eyes and hope while taking them off the block and hope it doesn't give. I think water got in there froze and caused it to crack from inside out. The previous owner mechanics didn't seem to do much upkeep on the truck and or know much when fixing anything. When they snapped the first transmission they drove it till it was toasted and when the rear axle splitter stop splitting they just pulled the plug on it and set it to side and drove on. Few of the things I have fixed of their lack thereof whatever they didn't do or attempted to do.

 

[Tim Burke]

Just close your eyes and hope while taking them off the block and hope it doesn't give. I think water got in there froze and caused it to crack from inside out. The previous owner mechanics didn't seem to do much upkeep on the truck and or know much when fixing anything. When they snapped the first transmission they drove it till it was toasted and when the rear axle splitter stop splitting they just pulled the plug on it and set it to side and drove on. Few of the things I have fixed of their lack thereof whatever they didn't do or attempted to do.

This is largely my son’s project, but it’s in my custody. It’s primarily a farm truck and has been hacked on a lot by POs. The splitter was hot wired in high when I got it. Had to replace the motor. I was planning on cutting those nuts with a dermal before trying to remove them.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

This is largely my son’s project, but it’s in my custody. It’s primarily a farm truck and has been hacked on a lot by POs. The splitter was hot wired in high when I got it. Had to replace the motor. I was planning on cutting those nuts with a dermal before trying to remove them.

Those aren't too bad just soak them with PB blaster or of the likes for next 24 hours, hold on to the nut with 7/16th size with pair of vise grips and use a 5/8 wrench for other side and it will come off.The block itself will take a 5/8 wrench to hold onto. Had to replace the motor in mine too just left the rest attached and cleaned up the terminals.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

The place I called for the part I posted on here is a dud, called 2 days ago for the part and they said soon as they get to it they will call me, the never did. I had to call them and they were reluctant to check for the part, I bet if I asked for a engine they would be all over it like stink on sh!t. I gave them the part number, the lot number of the truck I seen it on in the pictures and they still refused to, so if they are on here this is for you wasting my time ,,!,,.
Decided to go with DMillers, Birken Vogt and crane operators plan to put aftermarket on, I ordered the one from crane operators posted link and will take it into town Wednesday to get the adapters. Thanks to everyone that could help, helped!

 

[Spud_Monkey]

A half of a days worth of work, but line lock brake and proportioning brake valve is installed and works pretty good...

 

[DMiller]

Fabricobbling is a wonderful line of work, I may have a equal now!!

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Fabricobbling is a wonderful line of work, I may have a equal now!!

That's a first of I ever heard a word of such "Fabricobbling" guess it means to do something like this....

 

[Spud_Monkey]

With a little bit of this...
Tired of driving around using RPM for speedometer plus I need it for my CDL test, poor testing instructor going to jump in my truck and be awe struck with wtf look that will stick throughout the test.
Maybe I should mount some hidden cameras.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Time to wake a old thread up, I think I been on the road too long and my mind is in overdrive from lack of physical labor.
Anywho I've got an idea!!!
Currently pegging 2600 to 2750 RPM on my DT466 in my current rig doing 60 to 62 mph with FS6206a Eaton transmission and it has no overdrive, straight 1 to 1 ratio in 6th gear. I discovered another transmission that might work two ways, one to hold extra power and two less rpm's... FSO8406a with .79 in 6th gear
Seems extra 4 inches longer than F6206a which I had to steal from drive shaft without modifying it, I can see the splines on the slip joint which have me cringing.
Could I split the O/D for when climbing mountains, cause if I split the 1 to 1 as is with 41.4 inch diameter tires and 4.89 axle I'm going really too slow with high RPM's, looking for that in between. Or should I just toss the rear axle for different ratio? My opinion is it's easier to change transmission out than it is to change axle out even though it's more expensive. I'm doing all the work myself.

 

[1693TA]

A Fuller RTO-6613 is a good transmission in that application. I think it has about a .74 overdriven high gear. I had an 83 1754 IH, (9.0ltr V8) in rollback service and replaced the original Clark 5 speed with an RTO-909 and was pleased with the result. That truck was replaced with basically the same you have w/DT-466 and a RTO-6613 and it went down the road pretty good with a little fuel "tweaking" in the pump along with engine timing.

 

[DMiller]

Was thinking more on Two Speed diff with a higher hi side ratio would be better, could then Split gears no air system required.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

A Fuller RTO-6613 is a good transmission in that application. I think it has about a .74 overdriven high gear. I had an 83 1754 IH, (9.0ltr V8) in rollback service and replaced the original Clark 5 speed with an RTO-909 and was pleased with the result. That truck was replaced with basically the same you have w/DT-466 and a RTO-6613 and it went down the road pretty good with a little fuel "tweaking" in the pump along with engine timing.

Little bit too long in dimensions it would require driveshaft to be modified and no air on board to shift it. I have tweaked the fuel system and need to get a EGT gauge in soon before I put my camper and tools back on board. Though the retiming sounds like something I will look into. Was looking for intercooler for turbo last night, that will be needed too to keep EGT's down.

Was thinking more on Two Speed diff with a higher hi side ratio would be better, could then Split gears no air system required.

That's going to be heavy to lift up in there, forgot to add I will be doing this in the middle of a field when it comes around to doing with no concrete or heavy equipment to move it. It's how I did the transmission when I put it in, which seemed more balanced to move around. How much torque can these 3rd members take before giving out?

 

[1693TA]

I have never seen an S1954 series without air brakes myself and have been around a lot of them? The 1800 series could be spec'd with either air, or juice brakes I know of. All the 1700 and lighter series were juice brakes from what I've seen?

 

[DMiller]

Swapped a great many differentials even rear units on tandem dumps in dirt lots, NOT Fun by any sense of the imagination, but can be done. Used a sheet of plywood, stand them up on the yoke, walk back toward the hole then controlled crash tilt it into the bore, used a Guide stud/cut off bolt to align things as raised it up on a car style hydraulic jack then wriggled them down towards home. Rag off the lip, silicone the crap out of the gap and slam the bugger home. Also done two Coffing hoists off a Bar across rails one each side under the third member to wriggle up to the mouth of the banjo housing.

 

[1693TA]

Swapped a great many differentials even rear units on tandem dumps in dirt lots, NOT Fun by any sense of the imagination, but can be done. Used a sheet of plywood, stand them up on the yoke, walk back toward the hole then controlled crash tilt it into the bore, used a Guide stud/cut off bolt to align things as raised it up on a car style hydraulic jack then wriggled them down towards home. Rag off the lip, silicone the crap out of the gap and slam the bugger home. Also done two Coffing hoists off a Bar across rails one each side under the third member to wriggle up to the mouth of the banjo housing.

Done that a time or two also. Replacing a blown rear rear Eaton RS-404 in a tandem dump I stood the bed up and modified an engine "cherry picker" temporarily sticking it to the frame of the truck w/good old 6010 rod and my Hobart engine drive welder. Worked really well and saved my back when it came to lifting it up into the housing by carrying the weight. Lots more fun inside a well lit shop if there is such a thing as fun to be had with that type job.....

 

[DMiller]

Never considered that trick with the 42K and up Rockwells, old Eatons and 36K Rockemwells were not so bad just too often.

 

[1693TA]

The old SQHD's would keep a guy busy in the vocational trades..... SQHP's a bit better but not by much. SQ100's were the start of a reliable rear drive axle from Rockwell, (IMO) and is what is in my B-61.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

I have never seen an S1954 series without air brakes myself and have been around a lot of them? The 1800 series could be spec'd with either air, or juice brakes I know of. All the 1700 and lighter series were juice brakes from what I've seen?

Well I hold to testimony I have a odd truck, but yeah it’s a S1954 with juice brakes, 9k front axle and 19k rated rear axle and that rating was done with 20 inch wheels according to the door sticker. It doesn't even have the original wheels that the axles were rated with either, makes me wonder if it can hold more weight right up to maximum limit per axle per an inch of tire width.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Currently have 11R22.5 10 lug Budd wheels on it too. Disc on front and back.