Choice of three car haulers

[mbavers]

I will mostly use for supplies, lumber, etc, but will occasionally need to haul a car. I want a 16ft, 7000lb gvw (about 5200lb load), dual axle, dual brake. I have narrowed it down to: Diamond C, C&B, and PJ. They're similar, with significant differences. The PJ has the weakest looking crossmembers (2.5 X 2.5 X 3/16 angle iron, vs sturdier channels or box beams for the others. Frames are either 5" or 4" channel (I think either one would do). I can't decide, except I don't like the PJ crossmembers (too much chance for the vertical side to bend under load. Total cost, with spare, will be between $3800 and $4700, due to cost of shipping to AK. Any advice appreciated.

 

[RZucker]

Spend the extra grand and get the toughest one.

 

[NepeanGC]

I've never regretted buying too sturdy of a trailer...within reason of course. Trucks gotta be able to tow it.

Having had a couple of 3500lb axle trailers, I'd personally never get one again. I bought a 14k gvw trailer 4 years ago now, and although a bit more $$ up front, the brakes are bigger, the axles are stronger, and the tires are significantly less puncture prone. Not sure how the cdl laws are in AK, but maybe even a 10k/9900lbs, would be leaps and bounds better than a 3.5k axle setup.

With the salt we use on the roads here, I hate trailers with box/tube structure. They always rot from the inside out. All else being equal, channel is generally my preference, stronger than angle, easy to clean and inspect, without the drawbacks of box/tubing.

Another thing I'd look in to, being as you're on the the ocean - Does anyone sell a hot dipped galvanized trailer? They're very popular around here, and generally only costs a few bucks more than a painted trailer, but last a lot longer without all the headaches and cost of paint.

 

[56wrench]

IMO any hollow or square tubing in a trailer frame is more likely to crack or break under the constant flexing and twisting. channel iron and channel iron/ angle iron or I-beam construction allows more flexing before failure.

 

[DMiller]

Even a Galvanized subjected to Salts will end up corrupting, anyplace the galvanized is thin will disappear quick and begin that process of decay. I liked having zinc chromate primed steel then paint over as does slow the rust process considerably but does cost considerably more. My current trailers are Channel and Angle constructs, would not have Box section frames.

 

[mbavers]

Spend the extra grand and get the toughest one.

True, but each one has it's drawbacks.

 

[mbavers]

I've never regretted buying too sturdy of a trailer...within reason of course. Trucks gotta be able to tow it.

Having had a couple of 3500lb axle trailers, I'd personally never get one again. I bought a 14k gvw trailer 4 years ago now, and although a bit more $$ up front, the brakes are bigger, the axles are stronger, and the tires are significantly less puncture prone. Not sure how the cdl laws are in AK, but maybe even a 10k/9900lbs, would be leaps and bounds better than a 3.5k axle setup.

With the salt we use on the roads here, I hate trailers with box/tube structure. They always rot from the inside out. All else being equal, channel is generally my preference, stronger than angle, easy to clean and inspect, without the drawbacks of box/tubing.

Another thing I'd look in to, being as you're on the the ocean - Does anyone sell a hot dipped galvanized trailer? They're very popular around here, and generally only costs a few bucks more than a painted trailer, but last a lot longer without all the headaches and cost of paint.

I've never regretted buying too sturdy of a trailer...within reason of course. Trucks gotta be able to tow it.


No galvanized, and aluminum too expensive. I won't use in Winter, so salt not a big concern. Good point about the tubing; I was hoping maybe rust proofed inside, but very doubtful. Only towing with Tundra, so need to keep weight down. Most of my towing will be only a few thousand lbs, and I might switch to load range D tires.

 

[mowingman]

I have an 18' Sundowner, all aluminum car trailer. I looked at the P&J and did not like them due to the reasons mentioned. I don't know anything about the other brands. However, I agree, since you are spending a lot on shipping, I would get the highest GVW you can afford right now. BTW, my aluminum trailer was about $6,000, and I pulled it home from the dealer. Glad I do not live in Alaska.

 

[mbavers]

I've never regretted buying too sturdy of a trailer...within reason of course. Trucks gotta be able to tow it.

Having had a couple of 3500lb axle trailers, I'd personally never get one again. I bought a 14k gvw trailer 4 years ago now, and although a bit more $$ up front, the brakes are bigger, the axles are stronger, and the tires are significantly less puncture prone. Not sure how the cdl laws are in AK, but maybe even a 10k/9900lbs, would be leaps and bounds better than a 3.5k axle setup.

With the salt we use on the roads here, I hate trailers with box/tube structure. They always rot from the inside out. All else being equal, channel is generally my preference, stronger than angle, easy to clean and inspect, without the drawbacks of box/tubing.

Another thing I'd look in to, being as you're on the the ocean - Does anyone sell a hot dipped galvanized trailer? They're very popular around here, and generally only costs a few bucks more than a painted trailer, but last a lot longer without all the headaches and cost of paint.

 

[mbavers]

I'm having trouble responding to an individual post, so apologies if this doesn't work.

Weight is a factor, as I'm using a Tundra and live in very hilly country. I'll mostly be towing a few thousand lbs, but I might switch to load range D tires.
I agree with box/tube; they should rustproof inside, but welding would probably ruin that anyway. I won't be using it in Winter, so salt shouldn't be a problem.
No galvanized available and aluminum is too expensive.
Thanks!

 

[mbavers]

Spend the extra grand and get the toughest one.

Yeah, I was hoping to get some input on brand names, but I can tell a lot by studying the construction.

 

[mbavers]

IMO any hollow or square tubing in a trailer frame is more likely to crack or break under the constant flexing and twisting. channel iron and channel iron/ angle iron or I-beam construction allows more flexing before failure.

Thanks.

 

[mbavers]

Even a Galvanized subjected to Salts will end up corrupting, anyplace the galvanized is thin will disappear quick and begin that process of decay. I liked having zinc chromate primed steel then paint over as does slow the rust process considerably but does cost considerably more. My current trailers are Channel and Angle constructs, would not have Box section frames.

Yes, I am ruling out the boxed channels.

 

[mbavers]

I have an 18' Sundowner, all aluminum car trailer. I looked at the P&J and did not like them due to the reasons mentioned. I don't know anything about the other brands. However, I agree, since you are spending a lot on shipping, I would get the highest GVW you can afford right now. BTW, my aluminum trailer was about $6,000, and I pulled it home from the dealer. Glad I do not live in Alaska.

I'm buying locally, so I am, in effect, paying shipping costs to the dealer. I would not buy a trailer without being to inspect it.

I liked the PJ until I saw the angle iron crossmembers. They might figure that a car's tires are close to the crossmember attach points, so not that much bending force, but I may be loading other objects near the center, causing more stress.

 

[DMiller]

My 18 footer has 3500 lb axles, four wheel brakes, built by Trailerman. Bought it decent and used for $2k, had to replace the beaten up fenders do a bit of rewire lighting bought a full set of decals so can repaint and had two bad floor boards. Trailerman is manufactured north of me by a 100 miles or so and knew how built, knew it to be a good one for my purposes.

http://www.trailermantrailers.net/

 

[mbavers]

My 18 footer has 3500 lb axles, four wheel brakes, built by Trailerman. Bought it decent and used for $2k, had to replace the beaten up fenders do a bit of rewire lighting bought a full set of decals so can repaint and had two bad floor boards. Trailerman is manufactured north of me by a 100 miles or so and knew how built, knew it to be a good one for my purposes.

http://www.trailermantrailers.net/

Never saw one in my area.

 

[DMiller]

Would not figure as had. Usually Local dealer sales, some in a five state area but not much further. This was as bought. Also replaced all tires just after got, six lug 15s wheels .

 

[mbavers]

Looks well made. I'd guess 5" channel frame and tongue, 5 or 6 stake pockets each side.......nice.

 

[DMiller]

Pretty handy for me, haul scrap, lumber, misc odds/ends parts/components and a few odd tractors on it from time to time.

 

[old-iron-habit]

I would go with a 18 footer. With a 16 you will find yourself fighting a short trailer more often than you would like to. The extra couple ft. is cheap and invaluable when you want to stich a full bed 4 door truck on it.