Looks great. Something I may do at some point in the future.
Here's a tip if you're interested that'll take a restoration to the next level. I've done a number of classic cars and this will take your restoration to the next level. Maybe you're already going to do this:
Look around in your area for a plating company. I would think there's one in Denver which serves manufacturers. What I've done is stop in personally and talk to the owner. Ask them if they could do a couple 'runs' for you. What I did was on my last classic car, was put all the silver cad plated parts in a box (things like hood hinges, latches, striker bolts, all inner window regulator parts, bolts, etc), and the Yellow zinc cad items in another box (things like alternator pulley, gold-cad plated bolts, engine parts, engine steel vacuum lines, etc). Everything was paint-free and degreased.
They did a 'run' of each. What you want to do is find a place that'll first chemical dip (strip) the parts, then plate them. What I received back were perfectly plated parts which looked like expensive brand NEW with all the original tooling marks. And it was like $40 per box. I also paid another $40 for a 'clear' on them, which makes it last longer.
You could theoretically re-plate all the hydraulic lines and all original pins, parts and bolts. It's WAY better than painting them with silver paint like some guys do ....and better than buying hardware store bolts (which look like "cheapo hardware store bolts"!).
Another tip I learned from another plating company I'll share: To make it easy for the plating company to inexpensively do small parts, what you can do is get some copper wire and wind the wire through and around all the nuts, parts and pieces you want plated into a 3' long string. It kind of looks like entrails with the parts on a long wire with a hook on the end. But in effect all they need to do is pull the string of wire (with parts attached) out of the box and hang it onto their plating hook, along with the rest of your parts ...first to strip, then to replate. That takes them 30 seconds of work. It's not worth it for the plating company to handle all the small parts unless they put them in a basket (but then you're paying for a more expensive 'run' too. String them up so they WON'T fall off. The cost to buy all those small parts 'replated' new for a classic car restoration, if they're even available, could be immense. But in one shipment you could get back all the parts like brand new. As an example, with the other parts on my wire string, I had all my scuzzy Wittco radiator hose clamps replated, (haven't been avail for years) stripped and replated, and they looked brand new.
What you want to avoid is any shop which 'blasts' parts prior to plating (that ruins them). Blasted parts dont plate well and look like crap. If you go to a shop and they won't chemically strip the parts, then try another shop. Also all parts should be de-greased and free of paint before taking in. Don't take in any greasy parts b/c they'll reject them. One of the reason places don't like doing parts for people off the street is they can't trust them to bring in 'clean' parts to plate. Painted parts won't plate. Greasy parts will shorten the life of their chemicals. But parts with rubber (like hold-down brackets) are ok b/c the metal will plate but the rubber won't.
Just thought I'd throw that out.