• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

Death Spring Removal

RustedHeroes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
171
Location
Bonnyville Alberta, Canada
Hey guys!

Happy New Year to everyone! Hoping to get some help with removing this track spring so I can be around to ring in 2020.
This things makes me nervous to say the least. Any comments, techniques or past experience would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • Track Spring.JPG
    Track Spring.JPG
    542.2 KB · Views: 155

Rob Gunn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
163
Location
Buchanan, MI
I removed one from a old Cat D4 a few years ago. Mine had access all the way through for a 1" threaded rod to compress it. Not sure if you have similar on yours but worth taking a look. I would also assume the dealer could show you a parts diagram and maybe even offer some insight of how it could be done.
 

RustedHeroes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
171
Location
Bonnyville Alberta, Canada
Will you be wanting to reuse the spring..? If not then by far the easiest method is cut the coils one at a time with a gas axe until the spring has no compression left in it. At that point disassembly is simple.
Hi Nige,

The spring is completely sheered off/shattered on the underside and will not be re-used.

Thanks for the input on using the cutting torch, is there any specific method or sequence to cut the coils? I do have a new spring ready to go in that I will have compressed at a Heavy Duty shop, what is the best installation method?
 

Cmark

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
3,176
Location
Australia
Some tips;
Make sure you have the oxy pressure to cut through cleanly in one go. Just pick a convenient coil and start.
Don't get your cutting tip get stuck between the coils.
Wear protective clothing. The first few coils you cut will be under considerable force and when they let go, hot rust and slag will go flying.

Once the new spring is assembled it will be shorter than necessary and can just be lifted into place. If whoever assembles it has put plenty of anti seize on the retaining nut threads, you should then be able to back the nut off. If not, you'll need to connect the track and jam a pin in the sprocket teeth to compress the spring and relax the nut.
 

DoyleX

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2013
Messages
571
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Lever Puller, Gear Jammer, Pipe Twister
To compress the spring take it to the dealer. They have all the tooling and its only a $100 for them to do 1 spring. Get a new rod, nut and cup also. I wouldnt trust a old crusty one with that force on it.
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,287
Location
Kentucky
Replaced them on my 955 and did more cutting then need be, but I was making sure there was no tension at all before I started the removal process

photo793-jpg.143596
 

John C.

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
12,865
Location
Northwest
Occupation
Machinery & Equipment Appraiser
That looks like a 14A machine or is it a little smaller?

When cutting them I used a big hole cutting tip, something like at least a one but a two was better. I started the cut with the tip at the back of the coil aimed at a slant toward the front. I rotated the cut keeping the torch tip at the same place and just rotating the torch till it was pointed nearly vertical. I'd then move back a little and rotate again. The spring will explode with a bang when there is no longer enough metal in the coil to hold the strain. By doing the cut this way the broken shards will shoot down into the lower coils of the spring and track frame and not out into space looking for any soft meat to become part of. The first coil breaking will make you pull a vacuum from the bottom side of your anatomy.
 

StanRUS

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2016
Messages
767
Location
Cal
The spring will explode with a bang when there is no longer enough metal in the coil to hold the strain. By doing the cut this way the broken shards will shoot down into the lower coils of the spring and track frame and not out into space looking for any soft meat to become part of.

Local dealer mechanic lost 1 eye cutting 14A spring. After that dealer mechanics would just heat the spring with a rose bud to collapse coil tension.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,257
Location
Canada
You could use the same technique for cutting thick round bar. Heat all around the bar red hot where you intend to cut and then cut it as John C says. I watched a guy cut a 4" shaft this way and it was so nice it looked better than a saw cut. Now the cut on spring doesn't have to be pretty but you don't want to lose cut half way through either. You could put a cutting lens in a welding helmet or use your auto-dark if it has a lower shade setting for a little extra protection for your face.
 
Last edited:

RustedHeroes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2016
Messages
171
Location
Bonnyville Alberta, Canada
Well it's out... All body parts accounted for. Only casualty was a pair of underwear.. Man oh man when that first coil let go!!! YIKES!!
I chained two plates down over top, didn't accomplish much other than make me feel a little safer.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1777.JPG
    IMG_1777.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 99
  • IMG_1779.JPG
    IMG_1779.JPG
    993.6 KB · Views: 96

DoyleX

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2013
Messages
571
Location
Minnesota
Occupation
Lever Puller, Gear Jammer, Pipe Twister
Treat the new one as a loaded gun when it is loose and charged. Homicide or suicide... Wouldn't want to tempt fate by banging it around hard.
 
Top