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Bobcat T190 centering device issues

sjs2011

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Joined
Apr 14, 2018
Messages
12
Location
New Hampshire
Hello all, new to the site and bobcat repairs. I have a T190 that has starting issues (from not centering) and major creeping. Pulled the cab up and this is the mess I'm dealing with... its even got some wood in there.. FML any advice?
 

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crewchief888

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Feb 1, 2012
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1,781
Location
NWI
the aluminum arm is probably worn out, somebody jammed a stick in there to keep the linkage pivot bolt from catching on the top of the hydrostat.

looks like a pintle shaft seal is leaking as well..
get yourself a pair of levers, bushings, cams, new bolts a seat of pintle shaft seals and orings, and replace everything while you have the centering plate off.

wille has a nice thread on "repairing a creeping bobcat"


:eek:
 

sjs2011

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2018
Messages
12
Location
New Hampshire
Thanks crewcheif, I ripped it apart yesterday and everything you said is correct. The arm was completely loose and barely catching the shaft. Now on to finding a parts manual.

I found willies thread and it helped a bunch.

I appreciate your response, this is all very new to me!
 

crewchief888

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if you go to bobcat.com find the OPC (online parts catalog) you can look up the part numbers for everything you need. there is no online pricing, nor can you order parts direct from bobcat. a visit to a local dealer is in order.
one word of warning, pay strict attention to serial number breaks within your model and SN. there have been a couple different variations of lever/cams/bushings


:eek:
 

crewchief888

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Can the Pintle shaft seal be replaced in the unit? Do you know of any write ups on the process of how to do it?
once you have the centering plate, and levers off you'll see 4 bolts around each pintle shaft, removed the bolts and the centering plate mounts, and pull the smaller plate off the top of the pump. seals are set in a counterbore in the plate. the oring (actually a square cut ring) sists in a recess around the outside of the bearing. dont panic if the bearing pushes up a little when you remove the plate, install the new seal and quad ring, and push the bearing back down with the plate.


:eek:
 

willie59

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And be sure you clean the area around the pintle shaft thoroughly before you remove the four bolts, the centering plate mount and the pintle shaft seal plate.
 

sjs2011

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Joined
Apr 14, 2018
Messages
12
Location
New Hampshire
So I finally got around to replacing all the seals and lever parts. Creep is completely gone and no leaks! Win. But now I have drive whine. No lift whine. Everything was cleaned extensively before changing out so I’m lost as to why. Any recommendations? It had zero whine prior.
 

crewchief888

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Messages
1,781
Location
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So I finally got around to replacing all the seals and lever parts. Creep is completely gone and no leaks! Win. But now I have drive whine. No lift whine. Everything was cleaned extensively before changing out so I’m lost as to why. Any recommendations? It had zero whine prior.
Does the whine go away when the brake is off?

A slight whining might be associated with a minor creep.
Does it go away if you ease fwd or regular on either side?

:eek:
 

sjs2011

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2018
Messages
12
Location
New Hampshire
Does the whine go away when the brake is off?

A slight whining might be associated with a minor creep.
Does it go away if you ease fwd or regular on either side?

:eek:
No there’s actually no whine until you move the controls to drive. Almost like the breaks engaged really. But it’s reading off. No codes
 

crewchief888

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No there’s actually no whine until you move the controls to drive. Almost like the breaks engaged really. But it’s reading off. No codes

if the brake isnt fully releasing, or "hanging up" you may have (literally) a seat of the pants feel. typically the brake will "shudder" when it's not fully released. the brake spool and coil are in a small valve block (usually) located underneath where the 4 drive hoses are connected to the hydrostat.


:eek:
 

sjs2011

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Apr 14, 2018
Messages
12
Location
New Hampshire
if the brake isnt fully releasing, or "hanging up" you may have (literally) a seat of the pants feel. typically the brake will "shudder" when it's not fully released. the brake spool and coil are in a small valve block (usually) located underneath where the 4 drive hoses are connected to the hydrostat.


:eek:
Okay then it’s def not that. No real difference besides severe whine. No power loss no shutter. Any other ideas?
 

sjs2011

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2018
Messages
12
Location
New Hampshire
maybe as f'd up as the steering was to start with, you never noticed the noise...?

:eek:
Prior it was only on startup that you’d have to screw with it while engaged till you found neutral then there was zero whine while operating. This is now at any movement in the drive controls and at all rpms. I just pulled the case drain filters and they look good.
 

DIYDAVE

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Feb 18, 2007
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MD
If it whines, First thing I generally try is to see if there are any leaks on the suction side...
 

jerry hill

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May 17, 2018
Messages
28
Location
wilsonville alabama
If it whines, First thing I generally try is to see if there are any leaks on the suction side...
DIYDAVE on my T300 bobcat it had very little power on the right hand track. Plus while pushing the steering stick on that side, it would make an awful squaling sound. I removed the pressure pump and then the hydraulic pump for the right side. I took it apart and found the valve plate was scratched badly, which caused less hydraulic pressure being produces and supplied to the drive motor.
In your case it is possible that your valve plate has some damage as well. Possibly not as bad as mine. When hydraulic pressure is leaking past the plate, it will hallow like a dieing cat.
Hope my info will help you locate your problem. Jerry
 
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