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Cat 920 that has been sitting

Joel59

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I got maybe an ounce of antifreeze and then the water. As soon as it was draining what looked to be pure oil I put the plug back in. When I checked the dipstick it was right where it needed to be at that point.
 

kshansen

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Acetone and transmission fluid mix at 50/50 has been a preferred loosening agent in stuck antique Cat motors for years. Remember though, not all engines come loose. You have nothing to lose by trying though. Some have also used a porta power pump to push heavier oil into a piston that is up to get things moving. Just make a adapter for the injector port. You may have to remove the rockers to insure the valves are shut. May be a little drastic but again if you need to tear down otherwise it might be worth a shot.

I did the hydraulic method on a mack six once. Only problem is the only thing I had available to produce the pressure needed was an air powered grease pump. Wish I had a camera on that truck once it was broke loose and I had a loader give it a push with injectors out. Grease snake shot at least twenty feet in the air when it came out of the injector holes!

Thinking back on it these days I probably could have filled cylinder with 30 wt oil before putting the grease in. Good news is that truck ran pretty good in the quarry only using a bit more oil than normal!
 

Theweldor

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I had a 1952 Northwest Dragline that was stuck last year. It had a Cat 8800D with a pony motor. It had been stuck for atleast 6 years. I pulled the injectors and mixed up transmission fluid, acetone and a gallon of Kroil. Filled the cylinders and covered them up. It took 2 months but I checked it one weekend and all of the cylinders were empty. You could turn it over with a 1/2 " drill motor. It amazed me that thing started and ran very well. Patience is the key in this situation for sure.
 

Joel59

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Thanks for the insight, guys. I am going to try and move the machine home, and into my shop this weekend. I will go the route of acetone and trans fluid- and then wait. I'm sure I will have more questions to come.

Can I just put this thing in neutral and push it on a trailer?
 

repowerguy

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United States southern Ohio
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mixer truck mechanic
I had a 1952 Northwest Dragline that was stuck last year. It had a Cat 8800D with a pony motor. It had been stuck
Reminds me of a story an old operator told me of having someone push a junk old crawler crane to death row. The plan was for the loader to get it rolling (it was a small down hill grade) and he was going to stop it with the master clutch. The 3-71 was locked up from water down the exhaust, he said when he threw the clutch in, the old jimmy broke free and went full song taking him through the fence, down a hill into a creek/ditch.
They finally got it back up the hill and used it on a couple more jobs after the fuel rack was freed up.
This was a true Wild West get r done outfit not far from me.
 

bam1968

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You will need to release the park brake. Our 920 is equipped with a valve stem on the bottom of the air tank. I don't know if it came from the factory that way or if it was added later. Basically you will need to get some air in the tank to release the park brake. (FYI the air tank is under the radiator). You could also back off the adjustment on the park brake if you don't have access to air. I'm guessing since at least one tire is flat that you will have access to air one way or another. FYI it doesn't take much air to release the park brake.
 

kshansen

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Can I just put this thing in neutral and push it on a trailer?

If not running it will not matter what position of the shifter is in.

Looking at SIS it looks like this machine has air over hydraulic service brakes and a spring applied parking brake on the driveshaft(think Maxi-brake if more familiar with trucks).

The best option I can see would be to position the trailer in line with the loader so you don't have to deal with trying to steer a non-running machine. I'm picturing you pushing it backwards on to the trailer so that what ever machine you are using to push will be pushing on the bucket of the dead loader. To get it off the trailer if you have someway to lift the bucket with controls in float the slip them into hold it might hold the bucket up to make unloading a bit easier and do less damage to the trailer. If the hydraulics won't hold the bucket up might need to use some blocks to keep it up. Just be safe if getting near a suspended load!!!

Now for your original question getting it to move. The safest thing would be if you have a way to air up the air system that way you would at least have the parking brake to stop the machine and with a bit of luck the service brakes might actually work. A portable air compressor of some kind would be nice or a jumper hose from the truck that will be pulling the trailer all depends on what is available. If you have electricity near by even a little pancake compressor would work.

I deally getting that flat tire aired up would make the job much better.
 

Joel59

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Ok thanks so much, again. The plan is to take a portable compressor to air things up- including the flat tire. We will take the dresser 510 loader with to lift/push. Back at the shop we have lots of equipment, so we should be able to unload without much issue. I’ll let you know how it goes! I also got manuals ordered today.
 

kshansen

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Don't forget to get some pictures of the Dresser pushing the dead Cat on the trailer. That should be good for some comments from the Cat people!
 

Joel59

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I got the 920 back to the yard. I hired a landoll trailer to move it. I also found that the muffler had rusted out, and that's where all the water came from. Also got the head pulled. Here is the damage. Pics include loading out of the 920, steering it with the dresser 510, back at the yard, water in the exhaust, and pic of the head removed.
 

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kshansen

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Looks like time to be pricing some cylinder kits :(.

Not sure about working room under a 920 engine but did a few 966C engines in frame 3306 version of your engine just two extra holes to fill. As I understand the 3304 does have balancers down inside that need timed when installed.

Like I mentioned before if you have time to skim down through this thread Nitelite did the 3304 in his 951and it might give you some help on yours.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/cat-951-c-in-my-sights.38778/

Did you get the service manual from Bam1968? That is one of the important things I always liked to have for a machine. If you need some spec's or information right now I can access much of what you might need on SIS.
 
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Joel59

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Yes, thanks Kshansen. I've been reading over that thread and its very useful. Looks like plenty of room under the 920 to do what needs done. Do you suppose the aftermarket liner kits available on ebay are good quality? I'd really like to get "loaded" liner kits.
 

Joel59

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also, I did get the service manual. I'm waiting on the parts book. Do you have the correct piston part # so I can look up kits?
 

bam1968

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Looking in my parts book... it shows 8N3181 for part number for piston group. Hope that helps
 

kshansen

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Any chance you have the complete S/N for the engine just to be safe?
But for a start looks like there is a good chance the piston Number would be 8N3181, a little more digging seems to indicate that number changes to 8N3180. Not sure if that first number included the rings as the 8N3180 says it takes a 9S3068 ring set.

But to be safe I would see about what the full S/N of the engine is, actually there is a chance you can find a part number stamped on the pistons you have. It is often stamped on the top of piston.

I thought I had posted this last night but see it was not sent?
 
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