The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma

[od1]

The pilot flow goes into the side of the stack on the inside. The fitting in the valve has a screen behind it.

Above that fitting on the valve is a relief valve for the pilot section, don't remember the pressure but around 300 psi or so.

JLG specified a flow to the pilot section but most people used pressure to set the divider valve.

I used to turn the adjustment in, then slowly out until the engine sounded like it had a slight load on it.

The dump valve has to be closed, so start from the ground controls and make sure it operates from the overrides before adjusting.

Make sure the pilot valves have a signal, best to check milliamps on one of the wires going to the pilot valve.

Don't remember the value, but maybe 500 ma at full stroke?

Hi Rick39, I've played around with that adjustment. There is little response. I have it centered in that either direction the engine rpm's drop. Did you say there is a filter screen in there?

 

[od1]

WOW, I'm just seeing this. Sorry that I've not checked in.[/Q

I just read the post from Rick39. Pretty interesting posts. I'm not up to speed on that divider though. If had that set many ways now and still no response. I never took it apart fully. Is it serviceable?

 

[od1]

Hey Off,
Thanks for your fast reply. The neg. side of each solenoid has a short jumper to ground. The ground is one of the 4 long bolts that holds the solenoid in place. That in turn runs into the valve body which is bolted directly to the 40F's frame. I tried switching those ground leads and the positive leads thinking maybe there was a polarity issue as well. I took pictures before dismantling the body from the 40F and all the connections seem to be like they were originally. I just came in and pulled the small wire coming from the alt. The battery has a full charge. I started the 40F up and without the small wire connected it was possible to shut it off. While it was off the meter read zero of course. I then hit the tele switch in and out. The meter went into the neg. in both positions, so the switch and the ground connection must be okay.

As for the diode, I see what you mean but why would that be? The old alt didn't need it. What type or property should that diode be? The connection from the alt goes directly to the positive side of the coil now. Not sure about the large red line. I think it may go to the gauge, then out to the starter solenoid.

Okay today was better Dave, I installed the diode. I wasn't sure of the properties so I just matched one to the 2 that were in the panel. Found out the hard-way that it's directional. Charge is great, and all switches are functioning again. Thanks again OFF. You are amazing man!

 

[od1]

As for the Racine solenoid's they are grounded. I'm leaning towards me assembling them wrong. I put it together with the leads facing the outside of the body. Then goes the larger liner with the taper side towards the center. Then goes the spring. Then goes the smaller liner with the taper facing the center. Then the thick end plate held in place by the long bolts (x4). As for the inside, the spool or shuttle followed by the flat washer with cut outs they go on each end. Then the 2 springs, one on each side, then the push rod assembly one on each side.

If anyone has pictures or drawings or schematics from the company that would be great. If I press and hold the brass push pins on each end the valve works. I have voltage up to the solenoid when the switch is engaged in both directions. You can feel it push back when you through the switch but it's like it's not strong enough to work. If it were one of them I'd say it must have worn out but all six at once probably not. Any input welcome. Thanks,

 

[od1]

Anyone out there with Bertea knowledge? Here's where I'm at.

I am thinking the problem is within these 2 valves. I have zero functions from the Bertea valve body. ZERO.
Even when I manually engage the valve body nothing works.

I have dismantled the valve body and cleaned it. Removed the fine screen in that body and cleaned it.

The dump valve has been cleaned and a new solenoid and valve has been installed, even though the old one checked out fine.

Adjusted the Mobile-Monoblock valve pictured. It did nothing, no change in anything so I placed it back where it was
(I hope).



Adjusted the Fluid Control Valve pictured and cleaned it out. Did not find any filter in there.



Thanks again for everyone's help especially OFF who I've tortured now since giving birth to this thread.

 

[od1]

As for the Racine solenoid's they are grounded. I'm leaning towards me assembling them wrong. I put it together with the leads facing the outside of the body. Then goes the larger liner with the taper side towards the center. Then goes the spring. Then goes the smaller liner with the taper facing the center. Then the thick end plate held in place by the long bolts (x4). As for the inside, the spool or shuttle followed by the flat washer with cut outs they go on each end. Then the 2 springs, one on each side, then the push rod assembly one on each side.

If anyone has pictures or drawings or schematics from the company that would be great. If I press and hold the brass push pins on each end the valve works. I have voltage up to the solenoid when the switch is engaged in both directions. You can feel it push back when you through the switch but it's like it's not strong enough to work. If it were one of them I'd say it must have worn out but all six at once probably not. Any input welcome. Thanks,

Hi, I found a break-down and assembly of the Racine solenoids. I put them together correctly so I'm still unsure what's going on there.

 

[od1]

Anyone out there with Bertea knowledge? Here's where I'm at.

I am thinking the problem is within these 2 valves. I have zero functions from the Bertea valve body. ZERO.
Even when I manually engage the valve body nothing works.

I have dismantled the valve body and cleaned it. Removed the fine screen in that body and cleaned it.

The dump valve has been cleaned and a new solenoid and valve has been installed, even though the old one checked out fine.

Adjusted the Mobile-Monoblock valve pictured. It did nothing, no change in anything so I placed it back where it was
(I hope).

View attachment 171774

Adjusted the Fluid Control Valve pictured and cleaned it out. Did not find any filter in there.

View attachment 171775

Thanks again for everyone's help especially OFF who I've tortured now since giving birth to this thread.

I'd like to put a test port on the pilot control valve pictured here. It's the one marked Fluid Control inc. It has a drain plug that is 1/4 inch below the adjuster. Does anyone know if I would get an accurate read from there?
Thanks again,

 

[jokins]

Hello. I have an old 40F that I'd love to have any available manuals for. I see this forum has been amazing at supporting those of us with these old lifts.
I've been unable to determine if mine uses Racine or Bertea valves yet. I'd really appreciate if you guys would be willing to email manuals for both to me. My email linked to my profile will work.
Thank you in advance.

 

[OFF]

Manuals Sent

 

[willie59]

Welcome to HEF jokins. The Racine/Bertea valve discussion only applies to the proportional functions drive, boom lift, and swing, other functions are bang valves. It's pretty easy to distinguish between the two, they both are a stack of three valves where the Racine valves have two coils with wires going to them on each stack of the three valves, Bertea valves are different because they have noticeable "control knobs" to manually operate the valves in the absence of electrical control power, Racine valve do not have those manual control knobs.

 

[GTRClive]

WOW now this is content AA++ Lads question to follow I'm sure when My Machine finally arrives..

 

[OFF]

Welcome GTRClive. Are you getting a JLG 40F in the future?

 

[GTRClive]

Well short story.... I bought a 40H 6 weeks ago, from a local Equipment company, for the price i paid they where going to service it. It was 300klicks away at another depot so knowing they agreed it would be fully working I was happy... In the end I lost my sh1t over it as they kept coming up with lame excuses as to why it wasn't ready for shipping to me. Asked for my money back and in the end they gave me a discount and they delivered it for free (was going to cost me $600 to ship).... It finally came yesterday and sure enough it couldn't even drive of the rig or down my drive.... Had to unlock the axles and drag in down the drive....
So lets say I was really happy to find this forum with like minded Muppets like me that loves to fix things them selves....
Oh I just saw your in AB to... Calgary or Ed ??

 

[OFF]

40H's are pretty straight forward, shouldn't be a problem getting it moving again. It will most likely be a lack of current getting down from the basket or a lack of hydraulic pressure at the right times. I believe you can still download the 40H manuals directly from the JLG website. Adventure time!

I'm in the Edmonton area.

 

[excavator]

I've been working on a 60F with travel problems. When I move the travel controller one way there is nothing, the other way bogs down the engine but no movement. Wire #13 goes to approx. 6 volts when controller is moved off of center and then down to .54 one way and up to 9.45 the other. Wire #14 goes to approx. 10 volts off of center and does not change. Any ideas?

 

[OFF]

I've been working on a 60F with travel problems. When I move the travel controller one way there is nothing, the other way bogs down the engine but no movement. Wire #13 goes to approx. 6 volts when controller is moved off of center and then down to .54 one way and up to 9.45 the other. Wire #14 goes to approx. 10 volts off of center and does not change. Any ideas?

The controller is working fine. What happens if you pull one of the other levers just a bit and then try to travel? Any difference?

Racine proportional valve bank, right? Will travel work manually on ground control when you push in the little pins?

Have you tried to center the spool? On ground control, turn the allen head adjust screw (it's pointing at the ground) outward until the function starts to engage, then turn it in until the opposite function starts to engage. Count the turns from one to the other, leave it in the middle of the two and retighten the lock nut.

 

[excavator]

Thanks OFF, I'll try this next time I'm out there. I forgot to mention that I did switch wires back by the valve, between the drive and the swing controller and then the machine would move.

 

[BDub1370]

Man! This is like a gold mine. We just started working on a 40F today and I have been looking high and low for info on these things. It is pretty scarce. It would be awesome if I could get a set of those drawings, OFF.

I think this is probably the longest running forum thread that I have ever come across.

 

[BDub1370]

Anyone know where to find some of the bigger wheels/tires? Mine has the solid tires. Doesn't do very well on the ground. Are the hubs the same size as newer models?

 

[RSIGuy]

Anyone know where to find some of the bigger wheels/tires? Mine has the solid tires. Doesn't do very well on the ground. Are the hubs the same size as newer models?

BDub,

I have went to our Cenex Coop (not sure you have one down there) and they cross referenced or matched the existing with a similar tire. We have a standard farm type tire you'd find on a wagon perhaps on the front (we foam filled them) and a standard one you'd find on the rear of a tractor (also foam filled). I can't answer the question on the hubs. I have been trying to find out for a couple of years if any of the drive motors from later years will work on my "76" model as I have one that is worn enough it won't hold fluid with new seals. Good luck