• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

My first track loader!

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,429
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Glad to see it is free from the mud. This time of year gotta be wary of the woods, lots of mushy spots that are so covered up by the brush! And agree, really good on the wrecker for winch price.
 

toddchas

Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
5
Location
New Brighton, MN
Yes, those double ramps take the drama out of loading a tracked machine. We love using this guy for many reasons - shows up when he says and his trailer is another.
Boone. I have read all of your posts and like everyone else on here have found the experience informative and at times entertaining. I read I while back where you guys put new packings in your tilt cylinders. Have you ever done the lift cylinders? I'm looking at a 175c and the lift cylinders are leaking and look to be more difficult to get to for repair.
Thanks
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,429
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Is not so bad a job if you set it up well prior to taking them off. Get the bucket off, situate the loader lift frame on cribbing well above where you need to work and all secured BEFORE EVEN considering getting under it. Engine off, batteries disconnected, cycle the control to relieve any residual pressure then disconnect lines, hardest part will be aligning rigging to hold the cylinders until the pins are fully out. or if feel can tackle this disassembling the cylinders on the tractor they will still need be supported with rigging and will also have to support the ram/piston/seal head assembly as drag it out.

And before ask a single timber or two under the frame is NOT enough, use what you have to making certain it cannot fall down. Death would be inescapable.
 

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
WOW that's a cheap wrecker bill - got his number?:)
Glad it's out and all is good.

Glad to see it is free from the mud. This time of year gotta be wary of the woods, lots of mushy spots that are so covered up by the brush! And agree, really good on the wrecker for winch price.

Nice to see it out & back on dry ground again!!:)

Me too! Glad it's out. The bill was like tuition money. Hopefully, a lesson learned on tracking into unfamiliar land.
 

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
Boone. I have read all of your posts and like everyone else on here have found the experience informative and at times entertaining. I read I while back where you guys put new packings in your tilt cylinders. Have you ever done the lift cylinders? I'm looking at a 175c and the lift cylinders are leaking and look to be more difficult to get to for repair.
Thanks

Is not so bad a job if you set it up well prior to taking them off. Get the bucket off, situate the loader lift frame on cribbing well above where you need to work and all secured BEFORE EVEN considering getting under it. Engine off, batteries disconnected, cycle the control to relieve any residual pressure then disconnect lines, hardest part will be aligning rigging to hold the cylinders until the pins are fully out. or if feel can tackle this disassembling the cylinders on the tractor they will still need be supported with rigging and will also have to support the ram/piston/seal head assembly as drag it out.

And before ask a single timber or two under the frame is NOT enough, use what you have to making certain it cannot fall down. Death would be inescapable.

Welcome to the forum toddchas! Thanks for the comments. We have not done the lift cylinders. They both leak, but not bad enough that we want to tackle them yet. Like DMiller says, it's pretty straightforward. I'd probably pull up to a tall tree to block the loader up. I'd only do it this way if brake lock works. It's a small rod coming out of the right side cabinet. Press down on your brake and pull up on the rod. It should lock your brake pedal down. Add chains with a come-along from the loader crossbar to the ROPs as an added safety measure. Relieve the pressure from the cylinders with the engine off. Knock the upper pins out while supporting the barrel with some rigging. The rod should pull right out while you leave the barrel on the tractor. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
 

toddchas

Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
5
Location
New Brighton, MN
Welcome to the forum toddchas! Thanks for the comments. We have not done the lift cylinders. They both leak, but not bad enough that we want to tackle them yet. Like DMiller says, it's pretty straightforward. I'd probably pull up to a tall tree to block the loader up. I'd only do it this way if brake lock works. It's a small rod coming out of the right side cabinet. Press down on your brake and pull up on the rod. It should lock your brake pedal down. Add chains with a come-along from the loader crossbar to the ROPs as an added safety measure. Relieve the pressure from the cylinders with the engine off. Knock the upper pins out while supporting the barrel with some rigging. The rod should pull right out while you leave the barrel on the tractor. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
Is not so bad a job if you set it up well prior to taking them off. Get the bucket off, situate the loader lift frame on cribbing well above where you need to work and all secured BEFORE EVEN considering getting under it. Engine off, batteries disconnected, cycle the control to relieve any residual pressure then disconnect lines, hardest part will be aligning rigging to hold the cylinders until the pins are fully out. or if feel can tackle this disassembling the cylinders on the tractor they will still need be supported with rigging and will also have to support the ram/piston/seal head assembly as drag it out.

And before ask a single timber or two under the frame is NOT enough, use what you have to making certain it cannot fall down. Death would be inescapable.
Sounds good thank you for that. Have you ever done the bushings on the lift arms? The current owner of 38 years says he has never done them. They are obviously very wore out but he has kept grease in them.
 

toddchas

Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
5
Location
New Brighton, MN
Welcome to the forum toddchas! Thanks for the comments. We have not done the lift cylinders. They both leak, but not bad enough that we want to tackle them yet. Like DMiller says, it's pretty straightforward. I'd probably pull up to a tall tree to block the loader up. I'd only do it this way if brake lock works. It's a small rod coming out of the right side cabinet. Press down on your brake and pull up on the rod. It should lock your brake pedal down. Add chains with a come-along from the loader crossbar to the ROPs as an added safety measure. Relieve the pressure from the cylinders with the engine off. Knock the upper pins out while supporting the barrel with some rigging. The rod should pull right out while you leave the barrel on the tractor. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

I have gone back in your posts from early on to look at your dash you painted. The dash in this 78 IH looks exactly as yours does. There is one gauge on the left side though that is missing the needle. Did you replace any gauges in your machine and If so where did you find them? Merry Christmas to you and yours!
 

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
Sounds good thank you for that. Have you ever done the bushings on the lift arms? The current owner of 38 years says he has never done them. They are obviously very wore out but he has kept grease in them.

Never had any bushing work done. The loader arms have a bit of play. Where the tilt cylinder attaches to the upper part of the loader arms, there was a lot of side to side play. They came from the factory with what are known as "cord rings". These are just big rubber rings that cushion the side to side movement and keep the grease sealed on the pin. I know we put these on the tilt cylinders ends but can't remember if we put these on the loader arms. Surprisingly, Komatsu had these. Good to hear the owner is using grease.

I have gone back in your posts from early on to look at your dash you painted. The dash in this 78 IH looks exactly as yours does. There is one gauge on the left side though that is missing the needle. Did you replace any gauges in your machine and If so where did you find them? Merry Christmas to you and yours!

The only gauge we had to replace was the hour meter. The rest of them worked. The far left is the clutch pressure, engine oil pressure, then hour, etc. I'm not real sure where you'd get one. I'd call Komatsu. On some things they are outrageous, but you never know till you ask. After that, I'd try going down the list, FP Smith, Bount Parts, CE Parts. A generic one might work if you knew the pressure range on the gauge. Unfortunately, I do not.

I have nothing but good to say of the 175. The ones that are out there are old, so with anything of age and that's been used, you'll have repairs to make, but man she sure puts out the work when she's dialed in. Let us know if you get it.
 

toddchas

Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
5
Location
New Brighton, MN
Never had any bushing work done. The loader arms have a bit of play. Where the tilt cylinder attaches to the upper part of the loader arms, there was a lot of side to side play. They came from the factory with what are known as "cord rings". These are just big rubber rings that cushion the side to side movement and keep the grease sealed on the pin. I know we put these on the tilt cylinders ends but can't remember if we put these on the loader arms. Surprisingly, Komatsu had these. Good to hear the owner is using grease.



The only gauge we had to replace was the hour meter. The rest of them worked. The far left is the clutch pressure, engine oil pressure, then hour, etc. I'm not real sure where you'd get one. I'd call Komatsu. On some things they are outrageous, but you never know till you ask. After that, I'd try going down the list, FP Smith, Bount Parts, CE Parts. A generic one might work if you knew the pressure range on the gauge. Unfortunately, I do not.

I have nothing but good to say of the 175. The ones that are out there are old, so with anything of age and that's been used, you'll have repairs to make, but man she sure puts out the work when she's dialed in. Let us know if you get it.

Well I like the way you talk Boone. That sounds encouraging. The guy that owns the machine said that it's a work horse. He's only selling cause he bought a newer D6 and already has a older Kobelco excavator and does not really need the loader. The picture on my profile is of that machine. It has sweeps and a cab as you can see. The UC looks to be very good. There are single grousers that had bars welded on top. If I can get over the fact that it does not have a 4 in 1 bucket I may just pull the trigger on this.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,257
Location
Canada
A 4 in 1 bucket can be a real PIA around branches or lumps falling over the bucket. The lines are just waiting to get snagged on something and turned into pretzels.
 

DMiller

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
16,429
Location
Hermann, Missouri
Occupation
Cheap "old" Geezer
Had a MP/4 in 1 by a oddball manufacturer. Heavy, low internal volume, awkward and in a sense limited in uses against a true dozer or a excavator. My Allis has been converted to a GP standard bucket due to that.
DSC03152 (640x480).jpg IMG_2080a.jpg
 

toddchas

Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
5
Location
New Brighton, MN
Had a MP/4 in 1 by a oddball manufacturer. Heavy, low internal volume, awkward and in a sense limited in uses against a true dozer or a excavator. My Allis has been converted to a GP standard bucket due to that.
View attachment 176294 View attachment 176295
Good point Welder Dave. Something to consider being that I will use this to remove trees stumps etc. Thanks Dmiller your thoughts on the 4 in 1 seem valid as well. Of course there are those how swear by the 4 in 1 also. I better consider the price, condition and proximity to my land for the purchase of this machine to put me over the top on my decision. I've been researching for years and I do believe this is the opportunity to go there. And given all that happened in the beginning of boone's endeavor to build his machine and the subsequent input since overcoming the many setbacks I'm feeling more confident. Thank you all.
 

MarcusZ1967

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2018
Messages
101
Location
Mrshfld, Missouri
Occupation
Do-All
My boss has just bought a 1974 175C and this blog, I have been reading it like a demon!
From the tilt cyl rebuild to the track adjusters to the necessity of cleaning out the pans.
This is a "first" purchase of heavy equipment for him and I'm his tech guy.
I know this machine has problems. Tilt cyl, track adjuster and NO maintenance. The beast has been sitting for about a year. Put one good battery in it. SMALL squirt of either, fired up like a charm! Sweet sounding motor, little bit of smoke on start up then clears good.

The tilt cyl on this one is a 2 piston setup. I talked to Baum and the kit (MM0744) is for the dual piston setup.
I found the track adjuster seal kit on tractorasap (cheap).
And found a local Tractor Supply Co. for the Travelers brand HyTrans fluid.

AND, a BIG THANK YOU! To Boone!!!!!!

Marcus
 

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
Marcus, I very much remember the research phase before we bought our loader. I was trying to find every piece of information I could on the web. Found some here and there. Thought someone might come along and wish for the same on a 175. Glad you've found this bit of info useful. I think you and your boss will find it very capable once you get it up to par. You will have to work on it, but you'll find International had a pretty simple design, making it easy to work on.

After the last project mentioned up in this thread, dad had it hauled back to his barn and has changed out some of the drive-line filters. We've got to get it back to the farm as we have three big 100+ year old oaks that blew down during a storm last year. I don't think loader will budge them until they're sliced up a bit. Gonna be nice and grown up by the time we get over there.
 

MarcusZ1967

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2018
Messages
101
Location
Mrshfld, Missouri
Occupation
Do-All
Hey Boone,
I'll ty to remember to get some pictures of the double piston up here if I can remember tomorrow....
Being a '74 model, this does not have the S.A.L.T. chain.

SOOOOO.... there is gonna be a BIG Sledge whapping on a piece of 4140.. Attached to a LONG holding bar......
 

MarcusZ1967

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2018
Messages
101
Location
Mrshfld, Missouri
Occupation
Do-All
Been there all TOO many times.
I'm trying to get him to go for the salt tracks, but this is a buy for a 56 area he just bought in the Ozark hills..... I have a feeling that I'm gonna be WHALLOPING with a BIG sledge on that pin.. ya know...
I didn't get a chance to get a pict of the double piston today.... Saturday don't cha know...

Monday I'll try to REMEMBER.....

Srsly.....

Marcus
 

boone

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
AL
Resurrecting this old thread with a few updates. Hard to believe it's been 3 years since it was last updated. Shows how little the loader has done. She lives a quiet life in the hall of the barn. She keeps a full tank of fuel and runs around the barn from time to time to keep the oil circulating.

The 100 year old barn we keep it in has a family of unwanted ground hog residences that are about to collapse the thing. They dig right under the stone pillars which makes the walls bow and buckle, which in turn causes things to shift upstairs. Over the years we've put additional vertical supports in place to help slow gravities pull, but it's been in need of some internal wall bracing.

We recently rigged up some cabling to tie the bottoms seals to the loft supports. It's helped in the Westward direction but it needs it all the way around. It's a work in progress. We used the loader as a anchor point to help us get the cable sets tight.


IMG_20210409_151125892.jpg

IMG_20210409_151105223.jpg

IMG_20210409_151303559.jpg
 
Top