D6C Final Drive Sea

[Metalman 55]

We have had a weeping final drive seals on both sides for some time, so decided to replace them one at a time. Took the housing apart to inspect things inside & so far all bearings/races look good. The #5S6531 Holder has wear from where the track pivots at the back & the large brass pivot bearing is shot too. Have ordered both the new Holder & the Support #5M6636, as they were reasonable priced. I have never been able to get grease in that back pivot since owning it. If there are any words of wisdom to send along, I would appreciate it. I have a young mechanic helping me with the work as a fill in job, so it will take a while to complete. We are both feeling our way, but think we will get there ok. He does a lot of work on the newer Cat equipment. Once we get this side done, we will likely tackle the other side if the cost does not get too far out of hand. Stay tuned........

 

[Metalman 55]

Its a little hard to see but the race for the inner bearing on the sprocket shaft has a couple of flakes out of it. New one on the way. All bearing look good.

 

[stars&bars44]

I have a D6D needing a left inner seal, so i feel your pain. Its sitting waiting to be torn down. Never been that deep so I'm new to it. As for that back pivot you are talking about I call it the wishbone, and it has a 2 piece bushing in it. If it wont take grease its usually because that bushing has cracked or broken and spun a little bit. You can see it in the first pic to the left, its got grooves cut in for the grease. Keep them greased and make sure the bolts that hold the cap on are correct length, and always tight. I have seen guys throw whatever in there and one or two back off or are too short. What ton puller did you have to use to pull that sprocket off the hub?

 

[Metalman 55]

Here we are with the RH side getting ready to go back together again, with all parts having arrived as far as I know.

The young man who is doing the rebuild is a good mechanic but has never done a final drive on a tractor like this before. I wanted to ask if anyone has any suggestions on any special cleaning precautions/procedures for everything that has been opened up? Also, once back together I wonder if it is a practice to do a flush with some cheaper oil for a couple of hours running or just clean it well & use the TO4 product with not flushing?

Plan to go ahead & do the other side once this side is done, that way we call Cat in just once to press the sprockets back on.

 

[DPete]

Clean with a solvent gun, assemble, fill and go to work. There is an advantage in working on both sides at once that way you can swap gears side to side to reverse the wear if needed. At least that's what I always did if I had to work on both sides. Nice tractor by the way

 

[Metalman 55]

Here we are getting into the LH side, which we decided to tackle while we at it & found some flaking off on one spot only on the bull gear. Everything else is pristine on it the bull gear.

I am on the fence as to whether or not to change it out or leave it? This machine works maybe 200 hrs max annually. What are the thoughts on changing it vs leaving it & putting it back together as is?

The smaller intermediate gear that is driven off of the top pinion gear has more damage to it, presumable from some past failure. I will post pictures of that one as well. There was no evidence of any pieces or chips in the gear case, so likely the damage was cause from something in the past.

 

[Metalman 55]

Here is that intermediate gear driven off of the top pinion gear, which show some damage. It is part # 1P-1898 in the parts book for the whole assembly. The smaller gear in that assembly is fine, no damage to that one at all. The larger one of the two in these pictures has been ordered & is 5 days out. Again, nothing in the gear case to reflect any recent problems, it was clean inside, but I think changing this one out is the best option. Does anyone have a breakdown of how the two gears come apart? If we have it right the larger of the two gears is # 2P-3422 & the smaller one is 2P-3423.

 

[stars&bars44]

Can you swap sides with those gears?

 

[Bluox]

Here is that intermediate gear driven off of the top pinion gear, which show some damage. It is part # 1P-1898 in the parts book for the whole assembly. The smaller gear in that assembly is fine, no damage to that one at all. The larger one of the two in these pictures has been ordered & is 5 days out. Again, nothing in the gear case to reflect any recent problems, it was clean inside, but I think changing this one out is the best option. Does anyone have a breakdown of how the two gears come apart? If we have it right the larger of the two gears is # 2P-3422 & the smaller one is 2P-3423.

Your gear is one piece,the other two part numbers are a set to make one like yours. Have you checked classic parts yet?

Bob

 

[Old Magnet]

If yours is two piece they a coarse splined together with retaining ring in the larger gear.

 

[DMiller]

As a fair warning the spalled spots with lifted metal is where these will fail from stress cracking, you can probably gat away with the gears for awhile but you will end up back in those finals in a short time if left in there. Won't be as easy or metal free next time.

 

[Metalman 55]

I wonder if these pictures help identify it as either a one piece gear assembly (#1P-1898) or separate assemblies splined together as mentioned by OM?

 

[Metalman 55]

Your gear is one piece,the other two part numbers are a set to make one like yours. Have you checked classic parts yet?

Bob

I did not check Cat Classic yet. Makes me a little nervous about putting classic parts in there, even though they are going to be much cheaper........

Did not swap sides for the gears as we decided to go into the LH side after the RH was going back together.

 

[Bluox]

I wonder if these pictures help identify it as either a one piece gear assembly (#1P-1898) or separate assemblies splined together as mentioned by OM?

It is a one piece. If you are buying cat parts ask for classic part prices..Classic parts are more than adequate for this use.
Bob

 

[Bluox]

It is a one piece. If you are buying cat parts ask for classic part prices..Classic parts are more than adequate for this use.
Bob

2P3422 gear=213-8415,2P3423 pinion=216-3553,ring 2P3421.
Bob

 

[Metalman 55]

2P3422 gear=213-8415,2P3423 pinion=216-3553,ring 2P3421.
Bob

Ok, we revised the original order from genuine cat & decided to go with Cat Classic. Ordered the gear, pinion & ring.

Also, we may regret this, but decided to reuse the bull gear & to put in back on the opp side of the machine.

We did some work in the bevel gear compartment about 2 or three years ago & the mechanic saw the same markings on the bull gear through the pinion shaft hole when the pinion was out & said it looked the same. Note, when swapped to the other side it will be on the reverse side when engaging.

 

[Old Magnet]

I'd be concerned about using Cat Classic/China knock off in that high stress application. I'd even consider good used original over the China stuff.
Swapping sides with the bull gear is a common practice.

 

[Bluox]

I'd be concerned about using Cat Classic/China knock off in that high stress application. I'd even consider good used original over the China stuff.
Swapping sides with the bull gear is a common practice.

So how much classic parts have you used?
Bob

 

[Metalman 55]

I'd be concerned about using Cat Classic/China knock off in that high stress application. I'd even consider good used original over the China stuff.
Swapping sides with the bull gear is a common practice.

I really hope that this is a decision that I do not come to regret, but the savings over using OEM was so vast I decided to go this way, given the fact that this is a 200hr/year machine. I did check on used & was not able to come up with anything, or would have considered that as a viable option. When we did the bevel gear compartment over a couple of years ago, we located a good used upper drive pinion for the one side that was used & it worked out well so far.

 

[Bluox]

I really hope that this is a decision that I do not come to regret, but the savings over using OEM was so vast I decided to go this way, given the fact that this is a 200hr/year machine. I did check on used & was not able to come up with anything, or would have considered that as a viable option. When we did the bevel gear compartment over a couple of years ago, we located a good used upper drive pinion for the one side that was used & it worked out well so far.

Metalman,
I've been doing this for 50 years and have used classic parts for 20 years,have not had problems.My son worked for Cat for 10 years then a contractor with 150+ pieces of Cat equip. he uses classic parts. Do you think Cat would sell you junk parts with the same warranty as their oem parts? Most part guys don"t push them because they get a commission.
Bob