Ford 4500 questions

[FordFortyFiveHundred]

Hi folks,

Got the 4500 running great with a new cylinder head and valves. 3 questions:
1) Can I flip the rear wheels from side to side so the backhoe is wider? It is really tippy side to side, and I am hoping the wider stance will help.
2) What is the small round foot pedal next to the control stand for the back hoe? Pushing it with the engine running makes the hoses jump, but has no impact on any of the backhoe functions if I press it while operating the backhoe.
3) The loader is bent, so the LH side is about 2" lower than the right. Great for creating a crown on the driveway? But sucks for leveling my building lot. Is there a technique for bending it back, or am I stuck with what I have? I'm picturing a tree, some com-alongs and some chain.

 

[El Hombre]

Don't think you can swap them around, the back side of the wheel around the lug nut holes will be flat and not have the conical cut the lug nut centers into.

Don't know about the round pedal, sounds like some kind of dump the pressure deal. I have a rocker pedal that extends/retracts the dig-more on the floor near the levers....

Try to figure out exactly how and where the loader arms are bent, and work from there. Then set up your pull rig on only that piece or pieces. Resist the temptation to just start cranking it back straight; you risk bending something else doing that.

 

[FordFortyFiveHundred]

Don't think you can swap them around, the back side of the wheel around the lug nut holes will be flat and not have the conical cut the lug nut centers into.

I was afraid of that, thanks for saving me the effort.

Don't know about the round pedal, sounds like some kind of dump the pressure deal. I have a rocker pedal that extends/retracts the dig-more on the floor near the levers....

Agreed, I checked it today, it is a valve with a huge quick disconnect. Must be to relieve pressure to remove the hoe?

Try to figure out exactly how and where the loader arms are bent, and work from there. Then set up your pull rig on only that piece or pieces. Resist the temptation to just start cranking it back straight; you risk bending something else doing that.[/QUHow?

Unfortunately, the P.O. welded steel at almost every joint, I think it bent, he welded on bracing to keep it from bending further, and now I'm in trouble. May just have to leave as is.

 

[hookedondiesel]

If you are good at welding, here's what I'd do....
Cut the lower arm as shown, cut it all the way around "but" NOT on top. Set your bucket level, this should split the cut you've just made. Weld a flat piece of steel underneath to hold that position. Then weld plates to the side of the split.

 

[mitch504]

Are you sure the frame is bent, and not just racked? If you apply full down pressure, does it square up with the back wheels?
If so, you'll have to put one corner on a big solid wood block and see if you can rack it back. If you can't, you'll have to get more extreme, like maybe put it on a big lowboy, chain it down, then use a jack to twist it straight.

If full down pressure doesn't square it up, see if both cylinders are extended equally.

 

[sheepfoot]

First most all tlb and farm tractors loader edges are set by the rear axle. Tire pressure and size needs to be the same. New tire and worn out tire can change the edge angle. The block spacers at the front under the bolts that secure the loader frame should be checked also and replaced if needed, not a big deal but every little bit helps. Cutting the arm or cross tube and re weld works when done correct. I have used the 50 ton lowboy deck hooks and 20 ton jack and binders before to straighten frames out also. Racking and chaining to a stump could also work, just need to know when to quit. So the quick fix, add 10 psi to the rt rear tire, let out 10 psi to the left and swing the backhoe over to the left side and this should get your edge close to level or adjust as needed to help with your fine grading tasks.