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The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma

Rick39

Active Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
31
Location
SE PA
Did you get the counter weight with the unit? It bolts on to the brackets in front of the engine. If not you may want to ask the seller what happened to it.

Also the unit can be towed if the torque hubs are disengaged but the tow speed should be limited to 5 mph.
 

Catz4

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Burlington, Iowa 52601
Occupation
Metal Faberication Addison Mechanical
Your counter weight is missing Catz4!
Yes, it was taken off 40yrs ago. The bad / good is I have to figure out how heavy it should be to build a new one ,or slim chance find one close to me to buy. Good is that this unit hasn't been extended all way out , the electrician used this for most changing bulbs and ballast in parking lots. Is it possible to get copy service /parts ,wiring &hyd schematics? When weather gets nicer will drain all fluids change filters ,TLC clean then will try to start it. would like to read up on this lift first get to know it.
 

Catz4

Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Burlington, Iowa 52601
Occupation
Metal Faberication Addison Mechanical
Did you get the counter weight with the unit? It bolts on to the brackets in front of the engine. If not you may want to ask the seller what happened to it.

Also the unit can be towed if the torque hubs are disengaged but the tow speed should be limited to 5 mph.
No the counter weight was taken off a long time ago. I disengage hubs worked to get unit out of hole, pulled out on road, went about block brakes started smoking. not going back so I only had about 10 blocks to go . I pulled hubs that way I know motors,brakes are released. Brakes rotors are in good shape don't want to damage them. At 5mph wheel bearing be ok short distance. Gear lube was going to change anyway. Planetary Sun gears gear lube looks new ,good to see . Boom has very little wear on it , most of life of this boom was never extended out very far. I believe this since unit hasn't had the counter weight on it in 40 yrs. Unit was used in parking lot maintenance light bulbs ballast. A few years ago when scrape was high previous owner almost scrape this unit. Sure glad he didn't .
 

OFF

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
HD Mechanic
Is it possible to get copy service /parts ,wiring &hyd schematics? When weather gets nicer will drain all fluids change filters ,TLC clean then will try to start it. would like to read up on this lift first get to know it.

Certainly! Use the private message feature to send me an email address you'd like the manual set sent to, and I'll get it right out to you.
 

OFF

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
HD Mechanic
I'm gonna apologize in advance if this question has been asked because this forum is long as can be. But can anyone point me in the direction of parts for a 40F sn736017? Specifically swivel motor parts. Need oil seals in gland nut badly. And possible a back up motor. Thanks in advance.

Hi Austin022, when you say "swivel" do you mean the basket swivel or the whole boom "swing"? One we verify that, we can find a JLG part number for what you need and start Googling it. There are more places all the time specializing in obsolete parts for forklifts and boom lifts.
 

maple2

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2014
Messages
15
Location
vermont
Hello. My 40f has been doing good over the years. However it has developed a new problem. Everything works as it should. But when the lift warms up after 20-30 min of use the going up goes really slow. It will even totally stop moving up after a while. All other functions work fine after it has warmed up. I have noticed if I put "hi rev" on it will go up good and fast until the mercury switch kicks in! Any suggestions!
 

Luckytalons

Member
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
8
Location
Manvel, ND
I'm working on an old JLG 60 FR. I know this is an old thread, but it seems to contain more info than the rest of the web. I'm wondering if anyone would have a copy of the service manual or more importantly wiring schematics for this machine? The wiring has definitely been messed with over the years and I'm having multiple issues. For example, it moves ok in one direction but not the other, but the "good" direction of travel changes if I switch the valve wiring around in the panel. The steering also quit working now. I believe I may have mixed up a wire because it worked before I touched anything. I typically do general maintenance on a wide array of equipment and autos, and I have some electrical training so I think I could get to the bottom of this if I had a little info..
 

OFF

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
HD Mechanic
I'm working on an old JLG 60 FR. I know this is an old thread, but it seems to contain more info than the rest of the web. I'm wondering if anyone would have a copy of the service manual or more importantly wiring schematics for this machine? The wiring has definitely been messed with over the years and I'm having multiple issues. For example, it moves ok in one direction but not the other, but the "good" direction of travel changes if I switch the valve wiring around in the panel. The steering also quit working now. I believe I may have mixed up a wire because it worked before I touched anything. I typically do general maintenance on a wide array of equipment and autos, and I have some electrical training so I think I could get to the bottom of this if I had a little info..

Hello Luckytalons, no has come forward with a service manual for a 60F as yet. I believe I have some wiring diagrams in PDF at home, I'll check later today. Any idea what brand of controllers your 60FR has? Racine? Moog? PQ? It makes minor differences in the diagrams
 

exwestracer

Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2016
Messages
8
Location
Harrisburg PA
I'm working on an old JLG 60 FR. I know this is an old thread, but it seems to contain more info than the rest of the web. I'm wondering if anyone would have a copy of the service manual or more importantly wiring schematics for this machine? The wiring has definitely been messed with over the years and I'm having multiple issues. For example, it moves ok in one direction but not the other, but the "good" direction of travel changes if I switch the valve wiring around in the panel. The steering also quit working now. I believe I may have mixed up a wire because it worked before I touched anything. I typically do general maintenance on a wide array of equipment and autos, and I have some electrical training so I think I could get to the bottom of this if I had a little info..

I may actually be able to help with that. After going thru the whole dilemma with the dump valves (which were fine) we ended up with the same situation where boom up and rotate only worked in one direction. Turns out there was a bad ground (brown wire on ours) in the ground side control box. Because the system switches polarity (UGH) it will work fine one way but not the other.
Hope this helps.
 

Luckytalons

Member
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
8
Location
Manvel, ND
Hello Luckytalons, no has come forward with a service manual for a 60F as yet. I believe I have some wiring diagrams in PDF at home, I'll check later today. Any idea what brand of controllers your 60FR has? Racine? Moog? PQ? It makes minor differences in the diagrams
The machine has PQ controls. I got the steering working again. I disconnected a wire by accident. The drive issue would be nice to fix. It seems strange that it moves very very slow in one direcrion and fine the other way until wiring is flipped around. For now I wired in a switch to reverse the direction easily. I appreciate any and all information I can find.
 

Luckytalons

Member
Joined
May 14, 2012
Messages
8
Location
Manvel, ND
I may actually be able to help with that. After going thru the whole dilemma with the dump valves (which were fine) we ended up with the same situation where boom up and rotate only worked in one direction. Turns out there was a bad ground (brown wire on ours) in the ground side control box. Because the system switches polarity (UGH) it will work fine one way but not the other.
Hope this helps.
Wow that sounds like a promising tip. Thank you! Even if that's not the exact problem I'm getting a better picture of how things work. I have been suspicious of a ground issue. When I look at it again most likely Monday I will be checking for good grounds. Thanks again.
 

OFF

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
HD Mechanic
@Luckytalons
These 60F drawings are using Racine controllers on Racine valves, closest I can do at this point.
 

Attachments

  • JLG 60F Racine main.PDF
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  • JLG 60F Racine ground.PDF
    339.7 KB · Views: 22
  • JLG 60F Racine basket.PDF
    590.6 KB · Views: 19

od1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Canada
Occupation
Marketing heayy equipment
Hi All,

I’ve been working on the 40F for a month now and unfortunately, it’s no further along. Too many issues to post them all here today, but I have 2 that hopefully can be fixed easier than the rest.

1st one is with the Racine valve body (bang bang). I removed it and reconditioned it, new O-rings, flushed it out, cleaned up the fittings, changed 2 springs, and unjammed the platform leveler. Reassembled it and connected it back up. No leaks, looks good, but now all functions only work when I manually engage them.

Switch works, voltage is 11.5 volt at each end when the switch is thrown; spool glides freely and returns to center. I’m thinking I may have reassembled it wrong. The only part of the solenoid that I was not sure of when I put it back together were the 2 heavy metal parts that are separated by a single spring. Each of those metal parts has one end tapered and one is larger then the other. I placed the 2 tapered ends pointing towards the center with the spring between them. The smaller one I think I placed at the outer edge, and the larger towards the valve body side.

All of the hoses were marked before and the functions work so I’m feeling they are not the issue.


2nd dilemma is electrical also. I blew the alternator using a booster pack. Took out the diodes. I had a backup alternator laying around, a nice new Bosch alternator. Had to modify its housing a bit, not a big deal, needed a bushing, and had to drill it out a little. Bolted it up, connected it to the 2 leads and tested my switches. Heard all the proper clicks, so I fired it up. Nice full charge on the meter tested the tele to see if the extra voltage would help or fix the problem with the bang bang. Nope still nothing there, so went to shut it off, and well couldn’t. Tried everything, switched the control box from the rear to the platform, turned off the key, went underneath to the main kill switch and still nothing.

I was going to hit the choke, but I pulled the fuel line instead. After the switches all worked fine again. Weird! There is another place to plug into but that lead seems wrong. I tried that after but the normal clicks I hear when the key is turned to the on position aren’t there.

Those are my 2 dilemmas for today!
 

OFF

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
1,047
Location
Alberta, Canada
Occupation
HD Mechanic
First of all Barr, you may have power to the solenoid valves, but do you also have ground? You need both to make those coils work.
The new alternator you installed is back feeding into the ignition circuit. That will be through the small wire. A diode will fix it.
 

od1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Canada
Occupation
Marketing heayy equipment
Hey Off,
Thanks for your fast reply. The neg. side of each solenoid has a short jumper to ground. The ground is one of the 4 long bolts that holds the solenoid in place. That in turn runs into the valve body which is bolted directly to the 40F's frame. I tried switching those ground leads and the positive leads thinking maybe there was a polarity issue as well. I took pictures before dismantling the body from the 40F and all the connections seem to be like they were originally. I just came in and pulled the small wire coming from the alt. The battery has a full charge. I started the 40F up and without the small wire connected it was possible to shut it off. While it was off the meter read zero of course. I then hit the tele switch in and out. The meter went into the neg. in both positions, so the switch and the ground connection must be okay.

As for the diode, I see what you mean but why would that be? The old alt didn't need it. What type or property should that diode be? The connection from the alt goes directly to the positive side of the coil now. Not sure about the large red line. I think it may go to the gauge, then out to the starter solenoid.
 

od1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
199
Location
Canada
Occupation
Marketing heayy equipment
"By Golly" is right Willie! I'm sure glad Rick39 showed up. Both "od1" and "exwestracer" need his expertise.

I'm wondering if the cold problem isn't the reason I didn't see many Bertea equipped JLG's in Western Canada. They knew not to send them here. All the older ones were Moog, and then everything after about 1977 or 78 was Racine.
WOW, I'm just seeing this. Sorry that I've not checked in.
 
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