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310D Hard start issue.

Dad5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Nova Scotia
Hi guys;

Serial number: T0310D77601.

I am chasing a hard start complaint. If this machine sits overnight it cranks for a long time before starting. After it has been running it will start fine for the rest of the day. Seems like a fuel drain back problem. I have put a pressure gauge in the line feeding the injection pump and will try it in the morning. I'm wondering what the fuel pressure should be on this machine.

Thanks in advance.:)
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,891
Location
WI
A 610c is 15-30 kPa (.15-.3 bar) (2-4 psi), similar engine and fuel system.

Do you get fuel mist out of the exhaust while it's cranking or is it clear until it fires? and does plugging in the block heater help?
 

willie59

Administrator
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
13,396
Location
Knoxville TN
Occupation
Service Manager
If you suspect a fuel drain back in supply line, before cranking the engine at first start up, operate the manual lever on the lift pump for a few minutes to push fuel to injection pump. If it now fires off fairly quickly, likely a failing lift pump check valve.
 

Dad5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Nova Scotia
If you suspect a fuel drain back in supply line, before cranking the engine at first start up, operate the manual lever on the lift pump for a few minutes to push fuel to injection pump. If it now fires off fairly quickly, likely a failing lift pump check valve.

I'm leaning in that direction. I have a pressure gauge plumbed in and plan to try it in the morning.
 

Dad5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Nova Scotia
I tried the machine this morning and had 7 psi fuel pressure within a very short time. So it appears that this thing is just cold blooded and needs to be plugged in or get a sniff of ether.

Thanks.
 

hootowl

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Ben Wheeler, TX
Occupation
Retired
Yes hootowl it is a rotary Stanadyne.
My 310a began to stall then would not keep running. After doing web research I found a guy who helped me out big time. He said he could rebuild a pump on a tailgate of his truck in a matter of hours and have the tractor running again.

The problem was the internal rotary governor is assembled with a rubber isolation damper. Over years of use the rubber disintegrates and the governor assy falls apart.

He said you can easily confirm this by removing the inspection/timing cover. If you see little black rubber bits... he called "mouse turds", the pump needs a rebuild.

I purchased the IP (Injection Pump) rebuild manual and the parts. I think they cost around $140 USD.

After the rebuild and bleeding the air out she fired right up.

Mouse Turds...

0006.jpg


0004.jpg


This is the new gov assy installed. You can see the rivits that hold it together. That's where the rubber isolator was on the old assy. The new on does not use rubber. It's a solid metal to metal assy. In this picture the gov weights are not yet installed. They sit in those pockets. As speed increases they swing out and pull the center shaft in and out thereby controlling engine rpm.

0054.jpg


For those interested in seeing more pictures of the rebuild here is a link to my gallery...

http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc/tractors/JD310A/Injection_Pump/Rebuild/album/

For anyone that needs excerpts from the manual just ask.
 

Dad5

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
79
Location
Nova Scotia
My 310a began to stall then would not keep running. After doing web research I found a guy who helped me out big time. He said he could rebuild a pump on a tailgate of his truck in a matter of hours and have the tractor running again.

The problem was the internal rotary governor is assembled with a rubber isolation damper. Over years of use the rubber disintegrates and the governor assy falls apart.

He said you can easily confirm this by removing the inspection/timing cover. If you see little black rubber bits... he called "mouse turds", the pump needs a rebuild.

I purchased the IP (Injection Pump) rebuild manual and the parts. I think they cost around $140 USD.

After the rebuild and bleeding the air out she fired right up.

Mouse Turds...

0006.jpg


0004.jpg


This is the new gov assy installed. You can see the rivits that hold it together. That's where the rubber isolator was on the old assy. The new on does not use rubber. It's a solid metal to metal assy. In this picture the gov weights are not yet installed. They sit in those pockets. As speed increases they swing out and pull the center shaft in and out thereby controlling engine rpm.

0054.jpg


For those interested in seeing more pictures of the rebuild here is a link to my gallery...

http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc/tractors/JD310A/Injection_Pump/Rebuild/album/

For anyone that needs excerpts from the manual just ask.

Thanks hootowl! You are a scholar and a gentleman. :D
Where did you buy the manual and kit?
 

hootowl

Active Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2013
Messages
27
Location
Ben Wheeler, TX
Occupation
Retired
Got the parts from US Diesel http://www.usdiesel.com/
Here is the list of parts they recommended to rebuild the pump..
U37268 Pump Blades
15830 Return Line
U16320 Pilot Tube
U24371 JDB/DB Kit
29111 Gov Wt Ret
13366 Advance Te

I did the rebuild in Aug of 2010.

Check your Private Messages
 
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