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Trailer ramp repair.

Jeff D.

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Nov 9, 2005
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MN.
I figured I'd start a new thread instead of continuing to hi-jack Atgreenes on this subject.

I'd damaged my trailer ramps with the grousers on my dozer while loading it. The cross channels were angle, point down, and slightly elevated above the main side channels.

the grousers were able to get hooked underneith, and pry up/tear the metal cross channels. Since the trailer was still in warrenty I contacted the factory about the problem. They wanted me to bring the trailer back to the selling dealer (their closest anyway)but since this was 150 miles away I'd have too much time/fuel invested in total transportation.

So we discussed the problem, and their "approved" repair for it. They assured me this repair would eliminate any possibility for more damage. So I did their repair myself, and will test it soon. If it still doesn't fix the problem I'll either build new ramps myself(and try to get them to pay), or bring the trailer back to the dealer for warrenty.

Their "repair" procedure consisted of welding 3/4" round steel bars across the edges of the cross members. They said the grousers couldn't get hooked, and would instead roll off them. We'll see!!

I've documented everything I've done, and submitted the pictures and prices of the repair to them. We'll see if they come through. If not, I'm only out $55 bucks, and some time in the garage.
 

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Bob Horrell

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Nov 18, 2003
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Acton, CA
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Jeff, nice repair. I think it should work. My ramps are like yours only the V angle is upside down from the way yours is (^) and it prevents what has happened to yours. Mine also sticks up a little bit from the edge pieces but being upside down is much stronger. If your solution doesn't work you could always try reversing your Vs.
 

CT18fireman

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Brookfield, CT
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didtn't think of that. Sounds like it should work in theory, of course now to test it. Let us know what happens.
 

cat320

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Stoneham,MA
They look good there is one thing that i would of probably done ,maybe not a big deal but the ends that contact the ground would of made it so it will not dig into asphalt drives or street when loading machines. but i'm sure now you will have no problems with them.
 

tylermckee

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Location
washington
Yeah thats not a bad idea to put a piece of channel across the bottom, sort of like the leg coming down on the back of the ramp.
 

CT18fireman

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Looking again at those ramps, they just look like they were built inside out. Wouldn't it have been better to have the channel facing in to support the angle crossmembers?
 

tylermckee

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washington
I was pulling a bobcat trailer once with those style of ramps where you pin them up, one of the pins fell out on the highway and it dropped down. Talk about a spark show.
 

Jeff D.

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Messages
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Location
MN.
CT18fireman said:
Looking again at those ramps, they just look like they were built inside out. Wouldn't it have been better to have the channel facing in to support the angle crossmembers?
Yup, there's no doubt that they cold've been built better from the start. I'm just trying to do what I can with them now, too correct the problem. Had the angles been "point up" I think that would've prevented all my troubles. The C channel on the sides would've probobly been better flipped too, but I'm guessing they did it this way for the ease of welding it up.
cat320 said:
They look good there is one thing that i would of probably done ,maybe not a big deal but the ends that contact the ground would of made it so it will not dig into asphalt drives or street when loading machines. but i'm sure now you will have no problems with them.
:thumbsup I could still do that. It would'nt be anymore trouble for me too weld a piece across the bottom.(other than burning the paint again)
tylermckee said:
I was pulling a bobcat trailer once with those style of ramps where you pin them up, one of the pins fell out on the highway and it dropped down. Talk about a spark show.
I've seen that quit a few times out on the highway.:eek:
 

digger242j

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I could still do that. It would'nt be anymore trouble for me too weld a piece across the bottom.(other than burning the paint again)

Cut a little angle at the bottom of the side piece, so that it rests against the ground more or less flat, rather than with a point to dig into the asphalt. And as long as you're burning the paint up, put some angles at the upper end to brace that "foot". The first time you try loading or unloading with that resting on ground that's a little uneven, those will bend--a brace will help prevent that.
 

Jeff D.

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digger242j said:
Cut a little angle at the bottom of the side piece, so that it rests against the ground more or less flat, rather than with a point to dig into the asphalt.
Yup, that would work too.:yup Cut it, and weld a flat piece across the bottom (side to side)for support on the soft stuff.

digger242j said:
And as long as you're burning the paint up, put some angles at the upper end to brace that "foot". The first time you try loading or unloading with that resting on ground that's a little uneven, those will bend--a brace will help prevent that.
That doesn't sit flat on the ground either, on the bottom. Could use some work in that area too, plus what you said.
 
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Jeff D.

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I had a chance to test out the ramps while loading the dozer today.

They worked just fine.:thumbsup The only thing that happened was the paint got scratched up.

The grousers are too close together to let the track sink low enough to get under the cross members and bend them.
 

OD Load

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Mar 24, 2007
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VA
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i was looking at ramps and talking to the company that made them and they said to use old rubber belt on the ramps when loading track equiment it will still let it bite but will not let the track grab the ramps and break them up might give it a shot
 

Jeff D.

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MN.
That's a good idea. Thanks! I bought an old conveyor belt for the purpose of making mudflaps. I'll cut a couple of pieces of that alittle longer than the ramps and just throw them down over them before loading, and see how it works.:yup
 

Ford LT-9000

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Too bad you live too far away the mines pretty much give away conveyor belting they have a heck of a time getting rid of it.

Keep in mind when conveyor belting is wet its slippery. We use it on barge ramps and have seen excavators slide on it.
 

Squizzy246B

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That's a good idea. Thanks! I bought an old conveyor belt for the purpose of making mudflaps. I'll cut a couple of pieces of that alittle longer than the ramps and just throw them down over them before loading, and see how it works.:yup

Send some over for the Robber's Dog will ya!
 

Jeff D.

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MN.
Send some over for the Robber's Dog will ya!
How many stamps do you think I'd need on that envelope?:D

A piece of cow mat, ripped down, might work too. Probobly would get torn up alittle easier, though.:beatsme
 
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Ford LT-9000

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A tip for cutting conveyor belt is a sharp exacto knife and WD-40. Try cutting without then try WD-40 the rubber cuts like butter. Put a straight edge down spray a line of WD make a couple passes then spray a line down the cut.
 
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