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Homemade OROPS

Jeff D.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
1,280
Location
MN.
Thanks M630.

Hello Ron.

I've been alright. Been lots of changes in my life, but we're still plugging away. Glad to see you're still plugging away, too.:)
 

oldhousehugger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2007
Messages
122
Location
Dallas
FWIW Don't ever worry about that in a thread of mine. I don't care what anyone post in my threads. That's just me personally though, it's probobly not a good habit in general.



I usually weld with 6011, but I was recommended to use 7018. It may be a stonger weld, but I really have too turn the heat up to get it to flow right, and it takes a jackhammer to get the slag off.:confused:

With a 5/32 rod, reverse DC, I'm running it at 185 amps, and 6011 I can run about 125 amps. I know the rods dry, I just bought it, and it was vacuum sealed, so it's not a moisture problem.

Anyone else had that experience with it(7018)? Maybe a bad batch? It's Lincoln rod, so I'd think it'd be quality?

I was thinking about switching to 7024, but they only had it in 50lbs tins. It would be shot long before I used that much.

Jeff
I am a self-taught welder and am always trying to learn from pros because trial and error is so time consuming.
I just now saw this thread.
I used to use 6011 utility rod exclusively because that’s all I had. Then someone introduced me to 7014 and 7018. My old AC Lincoln cracker box likes 6011 just fine but it spatters so much that unless the steel is very rusty or painted, I now prefer 7018.
Yes you have to turn up the amperage to weld with 7018 but I get better looking welds with all other things being equal. Or you can use the next smaller diameter 7018 rod and the same amperage. I find that 7018 slag sometimes peals off the weld by itself with overall way less cleanup. I get far fewer inclusions with 7018. Not so with 6011.

I use 7014 to "fix" my messy welds once things are stuck together. The 7014 has powdered steel mixed into the flux and gives you a weld that looks like you knew what you were doing all along. 7014 slag peals and chips to give a much cleaner looking weld. I don't generally use 7014 to start with because it doesn't penetrate as well as 6011 or 7018.
I end up using the grinder on most of my welds to clean them up and am jealous of the guys who can run a perfect bead and never get spatter in the wrong place.
My hands are beginning to shake uncontrollably now while welding. I am not sure what to blame that on, manganese or old age. I guess I’ll pick old age because manganese is avoidable. There isn’t a dang thing I can do about old age.
John
 

RonG

Charter Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
1,833
Location
Meriden ct
Occupation
heavy equipment operator
Thanks M630.

Hello Ron.

I've been alright. Been lots of changes in my life, but we're still plugging away. Glad to see you're still plugging away, too.:)
Try not to be a stranger here,you have so much to contribute.
Do you still have the Mack?Is Dad still with you?Bring us up to date.I am doing fine,still breathing occasionally that is:))Ron G
 

ih100

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
731
Location
Peterborough UK
7018's, even straight out of the tin, need to be baked dry in an electrode oven, do that, use them while they're warm, and you'll be okay at around the same settings as for 6011's. If you have two voltage options on your plant, go for th higher, usually 75 - 80 volts, as the normal 50 - 55 volt setting will not keep the arc going at the lower current setting. If you're on DC, check the recommendation whether it's DC straight or reverse. Makes a lot of difference.
 

Iron@Dirt

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2010
Messages
305
Location
south lou.
Tested out as first class welder 30 years ago, dont weld to often any more. The hotter you run LH the more under cut and spatter you have making it harder to clean, learn to start arc at lower amps but a little more than 6011. Higher crest weld is acutualy weaker than moderate crest, esier to tear at edge of weld because of steeper angle. Good luck to you.
 

Jeff D.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
1,280
Location
MN.
Thanks I@D, ih100 & John for the info.:)

Ron, geez alot has changed on my end since we last talked.

Dad passed away. Mom sold the house and now lives with me.
I sold the Mack and got a job with "The Man".(driving city bus for Duluth.)
Alot of other stuff, too, but those are the biggy's.

Still like scratching around with my old equipment and making things, when I have the time.

Did some SS welding not too long ago on some pieces I was making. Used E308-16 rod, and was really happy with the results from that. Welds came out very nice.
 

RonG

Charter Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
1,833
Location
Meriden ct
Occupation
heavy equipment operator
Sorry to hear about your dad.Indeed big changes but sounds like you are doing well.Less headaches has got to be good.I hope that you can find time for us here,we have missed you.Welcome back.Ron G
 

ih100

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Messages
731
Location
Peterborough UK
Thanks I@D, ih100 & John for the info.:)

Ron, geez alot has changed on my end since we last talked.

Dad passed away. Mom sold the house and now lives with me.
I sold the Mack and got a job with "The Man".(driving city bus for Duluth.)
Alot of other stuff, too, but those are the biggy's.

Still like scratching around with my old equipment and making things, when I have the time.

Did some SS welding not too long ago on some pieces I was making. Used E308-16 rod, and was really happy with the results from that. Welds came out very nice.

Sorry to hear about your father, I was in the same place February. In time the pain eases and you remember the good stuff. All the best, pal.
 

Wylie5

Active Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2009
Messages
34
Location
Euroa, Victoria, Australia.
Occupation
Weed Control Contractor
Home Made OROPS

Hi Jeff,
The mesh that you used in the (rops) is it high tensil or not, With the gusets that that you put in, Are they high enoff or not (Dose it vibrate Much), Also how come you did not put mesh on the sides? And dose the brase a-cross the front get in the way of view., You have done a good job.

Best Regards
Andrew Wylie
ATWC, Aust.




I figured it out myself. I found where is said on the welder that: Primary Volts230 @ 65.7 amps, Secondary OCV 78 volts, arc volts 25 @ 230 amps.
So mine seems within specs. (can't measure arc volts)I think my troubles with the 7018 rod were operator error, not the welder.

I just need more practice.

OK, last pic and I'm done............ I promise!!

And thanks everyone for all the input.
 

Jeff D.

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
1,280
Location
MN.
The mesh that you used in the (rops) is it high tensil or not....
I don't believe it is. I did not ask for anything special when I purchased the expanded metal, so I assume it's just run-of-the-mill grade, whatever that would be.
With the gusets that that you put in, Are they high enoff or not (Dose it vibrate Much)...
The gussets are large enough. I've had no cracking or noticable flexing. I use the dozer for plowing snow in the winter. If I run in forth gear on the frozen ground it does shake, but everything shakes then.:tong
Also how come you did not put mesh on the sides? And dose the brase a-cross the front get in the way of view., You have done a good job.
No mesh on the sides due to the boxes on both sides of the seat open from the top. It would hit. I could've designed something that would hinge out of the way, but opted for the simpler design.

The cross brace in front of the operator does hinder the view. I could remove it, but instead lean to the side and look at the blade tip.

Thank you for the compliment, too.

Hey to you too, Jmac, and thanks.:)
 
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