Homemade OROPS

[Jeff D.]

Now that you are about finished what are you going to do next? Rase the header on the gerage door and add another panel?

Naw, a good idea though. I may replace the broken trim...............someday.

I have had a chance to work on the grader for the last 3 weeks and can see the light at the end of the tunel. I fegure in another 6 months I will be looking for another project.

Yup, you haven't posted much on the grader lately? It's coming along though, that's good. Are we gonna get to see the finished goods after?:yup

The 350 looks great, do you have to do any machanical work to it?

None. Mechanically it's very sound.(knock on wood) I'm thinking about a rake for the blade. The kind that swing up when not in use.

That may be my next project.

I should check with the guys here and see who's used them, and how good they work when clearing land.

 

[Jeff D.]

(re:350)I would like to find one in good shape.

Too bad you didn't live closer Dwan. A guy in the little town of Cotton Mn., near me, just put one out for sale last week. It looks nice too, from the road atleast. It the kind that have the blade attached on the inside of the tracks, rather than the outside like mine.

Not sure of the price though, but it's along ways to Alaska anyways, so wouldn't make much difference.

I might stop for SAG's, just too find out what it's going for, and the condition, for comparison.

 

[Dwan Hall]

I would love to pick one up like that but I think I have enough projects to keep me busy for the rest of my life already. after the grader I have to get the 69 Z out of the shop it has been taken up a stall for going on 4 years now and I have another lift to put in it's place. I will try to post on the grader soon.

Lets hope you never have to use that ROPS for anything but keeping the rain off you.

 

[xkvator]

very nice job, Jeff...the Black & Gold looks good...a couple Steeler decals would fit right in...

On the 7018...(DC+...reverse polarity)...some buzz boxes won't run them well, as they don't have the OCV that industrial machines do.
Lincoln makes a 7018 for buzz boxes - ''Lincoln 7018 AC''
7024 runs ok flat...7014 runs vertical better.

probably the only thing i would do different is use square tubing for the uprights...

:thumbsup

 

[Jeff D.]

On the 7018...(DC+...reverse polarity)...some buzz boxes won't run them well, as they don't have the OCV that industrial machines do.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but what does "OCV" refer too?

I've just an AC-DC selector, and variable amperage control. For reverse DC I just switch the leads around where they plug in, which is what I used this time.

This rod did have a suffix of "MR" behind the 7018. I asked them what it meant and they said moisture resistant.

 

[Squizzy246B]

Maybe this is a dumb question, but what does "OCV" refer too?

I've just an AC-DC selector, and variable amperage control. For reverse DC I just switch the leads around where they plug in, which is what I used this time.

This rod did have a suffix of "MR" behind the 7018. I asked them what it meant and they said moisture resistant.

Open Circuit Voltage

Your 7018 is the bog standard Low Hydrogen all position rod. As the last two numeral increases ie 7024 7028 so does the iron powder content of the flux. A 7028 is a big thick black sucker which is downhand only....the 70 bit refers to tensile strength....so like a 60 is a about mild steel.

 

[Squizzy246B]

Well, I'm gettin' even closer. I'll add a couple-o-John Deere stickers too it,(whick obviously JD is sending by wagon train ), a seat belt, and then......poof......all done.

I came up with an exhaust guard that I figured would be good enough for small branches. I also throwed on a fire bottle, some left over reflective stickers from my dump truck, and two small mirrors for backing up.

I did manage to get it back into the garage to paint too. I just needed to force the door up another inch, and then carefully remove/mangle/destroy the trim above the door.

The pics aren't great. I just took them tonight, but I wanted to get them before I scratch it all up when I pull the garage down trying to get it back out.

Add I'll have you know that I put a lot of subtle effort into de-railing this thread...you can't just come and post straight back on topic and then carry on like nothing happened:Banghead

 

[Jeff D.]

Add I'll have you know that I put a lot of subtle effort into de-railing this thread...you can't just come and post straight back on topic and then carry on like nothing happened:Banghead

Hey, I am not the bad guy here!!:nono

You know as well as I do that there's more than just the initial act of de-railing a thread involved. Hi-jacking threads is like having a garden. After you put the plants in you have to go back and maintain them, ie. pick weeds, water, spray for bugs.
Well, this is the same way. You may have hi-jacked the thread, but you never came back, so......................it finally went back to weeds!!:yup :bouncegri

Now, as for welding, I didn't even think about the voltage. I was thinking only about the amps, but since power(watts)=voltage X amps, I can see how a welder with higher volts could have more power than a lower voltage welder, while still having the same amperage. Alittle higher voltage might help when first striking the rod too, huh?!

I'll have to check to see what my no load voltage is, on both AC and DC.

On edit: I just checked voltage. @ 20amps AC & DC were both about 70volts(within a couple volts)and @ 230 amps both were inbetween 80-85 volts. Sound about right, or kinda low?

 

[Jeff D.]

I figured it out myself. I found where is said on the welder that: Primary Volts230 @ 65.7 amps, Secondary OCV 78 volts, arc volts 25 @ 230 amps.
So mine seems within specs. (can't measure arc volts)I think my troubles with the 7018 rod were operator error, not the welder.

I just need more practice.

OK, last pic and I'm done............ I promise!!

And thanks everyone for all the input.

 

[Dwan Hall]

Now you need to go roll it over and test it.

 

[Ford LT-9000]

The ROPS looks pretty good Jeff :thumbsup

You might be building a enclosed cab panels pretty soon its probably pretty cold in your neck of the woods for a open ROPS machine :roll

I started welding when I was 15 years old got taught by welders with 30 to 40 years of experience. My grandpa was a welder back in his day they didn't have rods with flux or wire feed welders. My brother is a welder by trade I used to be I went dirt digging instead.

No AC machine welds 7018 good you really need to stick with 6011 and 6013 with a AC welder. You can get 7018 designed for for AC but its still not as good as 7018 running DC.

Not all welding rods are the same between the brands the steel rod itself is the same its the flux coating makes the difference. You can have a 7018 welding rod one brand pours a nice bead where as another brand is horrible to try even keep a arc going. I learned on 7018 all the welders I worked with said if you can weld good with 7018 you can weld with any kind of rod.

Moisture is a big thing with welding rod it has to be kept dry we have even put rods in a oven to dry them out and I don't mean a rod oven I mean one you cook in.

I don't weld anymore unless I have to after welding for hours on end in the 15 years I just can't take it. People say the electricity running through your body doesn't hurt you B.S. . Some days I couldn't even straighten my fingers.

People that can only weld with a mig welder are not welders a welder is a person that can stick weld that takes the most skill. Anybody can weld with a wirefeed machine its just like using a caulking gun laying a bead of silicone.

In our shop we have two DC welders both run on 3 phase power they have 100% duty cycle at max amperage which is around 450-500. We have one AC machine it puts out 600 amps all we use that for is cutting steel with it. You buy boxes of old 1/4" diameter welding rod and crank up the amps on the welder and it cuts scrap steel better than a torch. When we were in the ship building used to have 20 guys working and a fleet of electric welders the power bill used to be pretty high.

The best 220 volt welder I have used so far was a Hobart electronic I forget the model but it was a DC machine it used some kind of electronic way of producing a nice smooth DC current. I was very impressed it burned 5/32 7018 Rods really nice no hick ups. It was pretty portable it did weigh 100lbs or more but I could get it into the P/U truck.

No more welding talk its bringing back memories of getting burn't to hell :lmao

 

[334 lawn co]

its beautiful!:notworthy

 

[Squizzy246B]

Hey Ford, we used to sit inside P&H shovels and run 11018's overhead all day hard facing..now there's a rod..after them a 7018 is a piece of cake lollypop.

Jeff, whats your welders max output?? and max duty cycle. Your OCV is plenty but whilst a LowHy rod is a bit more difficult to start it sounds like you don't have enough grunt. Getting the 7018 running well is worth the practice as its a vastly superior weld to 6013 GP rod.

 

[Ford LT-9000]

Hard surfacing has to be the most boring welding job a person can have :bouncegri

Like I said no more welding for me I will let my brother do that I would rather pull wrenches or drive truck. Some of the worst jobs I have had is welding inside garbage trucks or welding on landfill compactors umm the smell of burning garbage juice :naughty

Would I recomend going into the welding trade :nono

 

[Jeff D.]

Jeff, whats your welders max output?? and max duty cycle. Your OCV is plenty but whilst a LowHy rod is a bit more difficult to start it sounds like you don't have enough grunt. Getting the 7018 running well is worth the practice as its a vastly superior weld to 6013 GP rod.

It's 230 Max amps.

100% duty to about 125 amp then gradually drops to 20% @ 230. I usually weld with a 5/32" rod @ 185amp which is 50% duty.

I did notice some ripple on DC when I measured the OCV when set too 230 amp. That's why I gave the 80-85 volt range. I didn't notice any flucuations on AC when measured.

When I welded with the 7018 on Reverse DC it would strike great the first time, but subsequent strikes were more of a beating the rod on the steel until it lit up and then finding my way back to the spot to weld. The rod seemed to recess up into the flux while welding.

 

[Ford LT-9000]

The best way to strike a arc is drag it on the steel what usually ends up happening with 7018 you stick the rod then it doesn't break free gets hot and the flux pops off.

Your burning 5/32 a little on the hot side Jeff especially for 7018 :yup unless your running a long stinger cable. It usually states on the box the recomended amperage for the brand of rod your using.

For me I don't even look at the amperage dial I set it close to where I think it should be and turn up the heat if it needs it. Just like shifting a roadranger its all by feel.

 

[Ford LT-9000]

Another posting :bouncegri

I was looking at your picture of the machine it sure doesn't look like there is much meat on those track pads. They also look like the pads are starting to bend it might be just the picture. Oh well it keeps you from breaking things pushing too hard the tracks will slip before something goes snap :laugh

The only thing you might have to be carefull about is sliding down slopes more so if you get into something a little greasy. After the few tobogan rides you shouldn't have any stains in the underwear :yup

 

[Jeff D.]

The more I think about it I think I just got some crappy rod this time, and it was Lincoln. I had to run real hot to get it to flow, and the slag was amost gummy like. It sounded like frying bacon when I was welding too. I switched back and forth with 6011 when tacking things up, and that went down perfect.

I burnt up all that 7018MR, and then tried a box of Nassau Rockmount rod. I don't know how popular it is but I used their "Polaris-A" rod. ( Nassau can't have regular #'s I guess?) http://www.weldit.com/pdf/polaris_a.pdf That also went down real nice, and it''s rated at 95,000psi.

Yeah, those grousers are probobly getting down. I haven't priced up new ones yet, but it's on the "to do" list.

After the few tobogan rides you shouldn't have any stains in the underwear

Oh, it's way to late to worry about stains now!! Unless you meant "new" stains?!

 

[Ford LT-9000]

I can't remember if I have ever used Lincoln brand but there has been brands of rod that I tried half a dozen sticks and they don't want to pour right so I threw the box of rod and screamed f***.

I don't know if you guys in the US can get Arctec its a non CSA rod (not certified) but it welds decently its a rod designed for doing maintenance like welding up cracks etc. It pours nice you can run it with a AC machine but works the best with DC.

When you find a good brand of rod you stick with it my favorite brand is called Corex the other is Liquid Air Blue Shield.

 

[Jeff D.]

Before I'd always just bought my rod at a local hardware store. When I started this project I thought I'd get "the good stuff" and went to a welding supply shop. That's where I got that Lincoln rod.:spaz

I might try some more of the Nassau Rockmount rod. My dad gave this box, and my grandfather used their rod too. It seemed to work good.

I agree. Find something that works good, and stick with it.