Quadzilla
Member
Does anyone know if you can just undo the rubber briskets and slide input flange out and replace the seal? Or do you have to remove torque converter cover and install it from inside of the cover? Serial number on dozer is 83j-3795
Those bolts that go in around the seal don’t hold anything inside??Yes, you can replace the seal in place.
It's a bit of a tight spot to get the new seal in.
Easiest is to make a tool to pull it into place.
Ok, thanks, I am going to have to get a service manual, don’t know how much free play there should be on the peddles?No experience with winches here, but it appears there is no access from the back with them attached.
You can still gain access to do the settings from the covers under the seat with a little more difficulty, so no need to remove the winch.
Ok, thanks, I am going to have to get a service manual,
Thanks, that manual will be very helpful!
Ok, the manual shows taking out the entire transmission, was just hoping to avoid that if at all possible. Is tha input shaft connected directly to the converter or does it slide off of converter and come out with the front cover??I seem to remember someone on one of the forums trying that some years back, but can't recall the result.
I would recommend dropping out the whole converter and rebuilding it as the other bearings have probably taken a pounding too. Not a huge job, just a bit of a squeeze to get it in and out.
.You don't have to remove the transmission. You would split the converter from the trans at the 2nd row of bolts (holding the entire converter to the transmission casing), not the bolts which hold the front cover of the converter in place
Splines connecting the t/c to trans. The t/c shaft goes about 2'' into trans.Also 2 short steel tubes between t/c and trans control valve which will give you a bit of grief.
Best is to put the machine on blocks to give more clearance underneath.
Ok, have it sitting on 4x12 Timbers. Hope that is enough! Thanks for the help! I will keep you posted.You don't have to remove the transmission. You would split the converter from the trans at the 2nd row of bolts (holding the entire converter to the transmission casing), not the bolts which hold the front cover of the converter in place
Splines connecting the t/c to trans. The t/c shaft goes about 2'' into trans.Also 2 short steel tubes between t/c and trans control valve which will give you a bit of grief.
Best is to put the machine on blocks to give more clearance underneath.
I believe it has a hydraulic winch, appears to have two lines coming from hydraulic pump on motor back to the winch. Only lever on the floor is brakes and Parking brake lever. And decelerator pedals.very wrong; that late a serial number will probably have the live drive pto attachment. And converter can not come off in place.
Converter and trans has to come out in one piece.
Does it have the pto drive disconnect lever down by your left heel. ? That you use to disengage drive to the tracks when using the winch ?? If not and you just pull on the winch lever to start winching; then it has the live drive setup.
Live drive has a long shaft that is direct drive off the transmission pump gear.
A completely different PTO design to any other cat crawler. Trust me i have been in there on my D4E which has same setup.
Unless of course it has a hydraulic winch driven off the crawler hydraulics ? But if its a Cat 54 winch or hyster W5A or B then it is pto driven