Oof - can you elaborate on the tooling and what its used for...its my first.
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How is the John Deere 4024 engine? Reliable?
- Thread starter Parts
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Mg can give you a list of things you will need. I have to buy a couple of things from Deere when I tore one down. There is even more for set up.
I think this is the ESN: PE4024R059265. Running unloaded idle/mid-low RPM the fuel pressure gauge bounces between 8-10PSI. Gauge maxes at 10 and once you rev up it has no problem holding 10+psi. If the lift pump is making proper pressure is there any reason I can't slowly load the engine and slowly raise the throttle until it doesn't want to die while holding 100psi?
mg2361
Senior Member
After shutdown, does it hold 4 psi for 10 minutes?
My next question would be, is the air system setup correctly? Does this unit have an air button to turn on the air? What is the air pressure on the gauge when the air is on with the air outlet valve closed?
My next question would be, is the air system setup correctly? Does this unit have an air button to turn on the air? What is the air pressure on the gauge when the air is on with the air outlet valve closed?
It held 4-5 PSI after shutdown for a while. The air end all checks out to me. This machine starts at goes up to full psi in 1 swoop. If I set the gauge at 50psi it will sit there and run happy. If I turn it up to 100psi it will slowly shiver and shut the motor off. I really think it just needs a hint more throttle thus just enough fuel to keep the engine happy when its loaded up with pressure. Any thoughts on turning up the throttle?
mg2361
Senior Member
Sorry, I am a little confused. Most compressors I have worked on will idle (1800 rpm) at approximately 120-150 psi when the ball valve is closed. Then they are fully loaded with the ball valve opened on the air to approximately 100 psi (engine speed goes up to 2500-2600 rpm). So if your compressor is adjusted properly, and idles at 120 psi with the ball valve on the outlet closed, it stalls? Or it only stalls when you open the ball valve to produce air?
Post a picture of your instrument panel.
Sorry I didn't explain that one well. The only time we have an issue is with ball valves closed. If you turn it down to say 50psi and ball valves closed no issue. If you turn it up to 120psi with ball valves closed it will shut down the engine shortly. If you open the ball valves it will rev up and run all you want without issue.
mg2361
Senior Member
What's the rpm the engine is idling at?
mg2361
Senior Member
For air compressors, about the only thing that works is a photo tach. On the IR's, there is a whole in the air end mounting plate and IR so kindly has put a piece of reflective tape on the flywheel that my photo tach can pick up. Maybe Atlas has the same??
Photo tach is a good idea - I will take a look at the flywheel. Its a real dig to get into this machine its one of those where the hood is the entire roof and it only opens up enough to let you squeeze your head in. Gonna remove the hood and set it aside so theres more access. Assuming running RPM is correct what else would cause the engine to shut off when its under load? It runs so well, smooth, and without any smoke/noise that you'd be shocked to hear it does this.
mg2361
Senior Member
Maybe take a video of it shutting down and posting it. Also post some pictures of the unit from both sides and the instrument panel as well.
I am going to get a video this week. One silly thing I didn't try is removing the air filter just to make sure its not restricted through the intake. If this engine had running issues you'd say that must be the reason it shuts off but it cranks over and fires up like a new engine.
stonecutter06
New Member
Sorry to revive an old thread, but @heymccall what filter setup did you switch to on your 2014 and 4024? I've got a 4024 in a sullair air compressor and want to keep the fuel as clean as possible.
I have a question regarding this particular motor, and would appreciate the help.
Classic head gasket reared its ugly head and now cannot get it to start. It will turn over and acts like it wants to start, but just missing that last little bit.
It is also showing a low oil pressure light code. There is fuel in both filters, oil is fresh and topped off, radiator has been drained and fresh coolant. Torque values are correct, primary concern is that it is out of time some how and not sure if there is a way to check that without tearing down again.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Ironically it is a Sullair air compressor.
Classic head gasket reared its ugly head and now cannot get it to start. It will turn over and acts like it wants to start, but just missing that last little bit.
It is also showing a low oil pressure light code. There is fuel in both filters, oil is fresh and topped off, radiator has been drained and fresh coolant. Torque values are correct, primary concern is that it is out of time some how and not sure if there is a way to check that without tearing down again.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Ironically it is a Sullair air compressor.
Diesel Dave
Senior Member
@Dhuff , Did you collapse the cam followers before installing the push rods and rocker arms ?
Yes, with that little I-Bar shape tool. That took a while to make sure each of them were empty. The injectors got moved around, I was did label them to maintain order, but think that they are out of alignment causing timing to be off. Which is the part I am slightly confused by.
Diesel Dave
Senior Member
If you didn’t loosen any of the injector pump clamps ,the fuel timing should not have changed enough to create a no start.
Was the engine a relatively good runner before the head gasket change ?
Mechanical fuel injection pumps or electronic ?
Engine serial number ?
Was the engine a relatively good runner before the head gasket change ?
Mechanical fuel injection pumps or electronic ?
Engine serial number ?
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