I don't have my parts book here with me at the moment but if that is one of the PPC control lines that runs from your joystick to the control manifold block, it should have some fittings that look like a JIC cone fitting on one end and a special quick disconnect fitting that goes to the manifold block. These are not JIC but they look like it on the joystick end of the hose. Now, if I am describing what you have, here is what you do to make a hose up really cheap and easy. I just had at least 7 or more of these lines made up last week at my local hydraulic shop. This is the cone fitting. I don't have a pic of the QD fitting handy.
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But first, before you pull that line out (from the joystick end out toward the back of the cab) be SURE to tie a small rope or better yet, Mule Tape, to the joystick end. This will make reinstallation a lot easier if not the only way possible. Be sure to find a metric bolt or hydraulic fitting that will screw into the fitting to allow you to pull the new line back into place. I have a special tool that I built several years ago because of the problems I encountered getting a new line pulled into place. I can get pics later if you need them.
Chuck up the fittings in a vise (a lathe's 3 jaw chuck works excellent) and carefully make a cut on the innermost edge of the crimp collar closest to the fitting with a hack saw to cut into the innermost collar. Do NOT go deeper than the hose as you don't want to hit the barbed fitting inside. Now take a pair of vise grips to hold the crimp collar of the fitting from the side and burn down the rest of the crimp collar on one side with a bench grinder wheel or other metal cutting tool to cut a slot from the end furthest from the fitting, parallel along the hose, to the previously made cut at the other end of the collar. Do NOT go any deeper than the hose. Once this slot is cut from end to end of the crimp collar, you should be able to peel that collar back with a large screwdriver and salvage the fittings. Toss the wasted crimp collar and take the fittings to the hydraulic shop.
Find a local hydraulic shop with crimp collars and 1/4" hydraulic hose. These lines run a max of 600 psi or less. Mine were made with 2 wire hose as 1 wire was not available. While I could have used the non-conductive hose, I wanted something that would weather the longest so I went with steel braided hose. It's a little bit larger diameter than Komatsu's original single braid but it works just fine.
I provided the fittings and the hydraulic shop provided hose and collars. I was replacing a bunch of weathered lines that run from the control manifold to the main valve body servos. Same line at what runs from the joysticks to the control manifold - cone fitting on one end and plastic collar QD coupler on the other end. Push in on the QD coupler, rotate the black plastic collar a bit and it will pull right off. Oil will continue to drip until you get a line back on there so plan accordingly.
If you purchase one of these control lines, always keep the fittings from the junk line and you will have a spare set of fittings to make a replacement hose before you pull the damaged one off.
And for other PC200-6 hoses, I used
www.usrparts.com for several travel, stick and bucket lines that I replaced. Others, I had made at my local hydraulic shop. 1" #16 code 61 straight flange fittings at the main valve body and mostly 3/4" #12 at the downstream end.
