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D8K or D9N need advice!

Bluox

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Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Anybody have any recommendations on a place to start for the white smoke?

injectors?
That motor doesn't have injectors as such it uses injection pumps and nozzles in the pre cups.
Loosen an injection line to find which cylinder is missing.
need more info as to when motor smokes.
Bob
 

bcole4

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Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
As long as the push arms are not hitting the tracks and you are not doing finish work no big deal.
The diagonal braces have adjustable ends unless they are welded up.
you can take a lot of the sway by adjusting them.
Bob

not complete finish work but need to be able to build on the sites when I leave.

yes the braces have been welded up already…
 

bcole4

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Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
That motor doesn't have injectors as such it uses injection pumps and nozzles in the pre cups.
Loosen an injection line to find which cylinder is missing.
need more info as to when motor smokes.
Bob

seems to smoke a small amount pretty consistent while running however there is a puff of thicker smoke rhythmically.

how do I track down missing cylinder by loosening fuel lines?

thanks for your time and knowledge!
 

Bluox

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Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Do you realize how hard it is to trouble shoot by someone else's description ?
Set the idle where it smokes the most and loosen the fuel lines one at a time and only one till it quits missing.
Are you running it with the governor opened up?
Bob
 
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bcole4

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Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
Do you realize how hard it is to trouble shoot by someone else's description ?
Set the idle where it smokes the most and loosen the fuel lines one at a time and only one till it quits missing.
Are you running it with the governor opened up?
Bob

yes I do and that is why I greatly appreciate you even trying to help me diagnose or where to start.

ok I will try this on Monday when I get back down to my site.

sorry, but what do you mean by governor opened up? I’m assuming that the governor opened up is different from using the decelerator to control engine speed
 

8k bill

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Sep 15, 2012
Messages
66
Location
Central Queensland Austrailia
Occupation
Farmer grazier
Your problem with it smoking and fluttering could be a worn c spring dampener at the back of the injection pump in front of the governor, it helps smooth out the pump between lobes.
 

bcole4

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Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
Do you realize how hard it is to trouble shoot by someone else's description ?
Set the idle where it smokes the most and loosen the fuel lines one at a time and only one till it quits missing.
Are you running it with the governor opened up?
Bob

tried this today. Loosened one at a time until fuel was spewing out. Didn’t seem to make that big of a difference on any particular one. Do I need to loosen all the way or just partially like I did?
 

bcole4

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May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
4CBBC239-4B5E-4262-963A-5468968A9699.jpeg D80939DB-79D6-4410-9AB0-FAABAD0A29BB.jpeg F2A68F8F-9298-432B-9197-FA3C93A21761.jpeg
Your problem with it smoking and fluttering could be a worn c spring dampener at the back of the injection pump in front of the governor, it helps smooth out the pump between lobes.

ok thanks for the info. I have my service manual on the way and I will look into it


Do you or anyone else know what this line on the back of the fuel pump is? It comes out the very back and connects to the other side of the engine on the air intake. It has a large hole in it where the throttle linkage rubbed it raw. 4CBBC239-4B5E-4262-963A-5468968A9699.jpeg
 

Bluox

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Messages
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Location
WA state
Thats the air pressure line to the fuel ratio valve, fix it.
If each cyl. sounds the same with the line cracked probably not the injection pumps.
Bob
 

bcole4

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May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
Thats the air pressure line to the fuel ratio valve, fix it.
If each cyl. sounds the same with the line cracked probably not the injection pumps.
Bob

could this be cause of the white smoke because the ratio is off?

Also one of my haulers said it sounded like I might have a burnt valve. Is this something that needs to be diagnosed/fixed ASAP or is this something that can wait a bit?

again, thank you all for your help I greatly appreciate it
 

bcole4

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Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
Don't get it hot. It's easy to crack a head. If you're working on a slope, overfill the transmission with 7 gallons to avoid a wild ride backwards. Blade brace pins and cotter pins can be purchased aftermarket. Pull your transmission screens and clean them. Change your filters, with emphasis on inner air filter, transmission filters, fuel filters (clean fuel filter screen) and final drive filters. They don't tend to get much love. Pull the fill plugs on the finals and stand back. If they don't shower you with oil, your duocone seals are intact. Changing the final drive fluid is cheap insurance. Prime the final drive pumps before using if you change the fluid so you don't damage the finals. Pull the floor and grease the u-joint. If it's damaged, replace it now before it gets any worse. Get an owner and service manual which explains all. Clean the radiator and belly pans when you get a chance. Eventually you should determine if your cross tube has been updated. The original hose design was changed because it would brake and spray burning oil on the operator. CAT will do the upgrade for free if you remove the cross tube and take it to them. I don't remember if they will do the R&R or not. These are some of the things that get overlooked in a normal service. If I think of others, I'll update.

cracked open the finals today (well one of them, other side broke my ratchet) and it was filled with excess oil. Didn’t shower me like you said but was pouring out the fill plug.

Is this the duo cone seal and what does it mean for me?
 

bcole4

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May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
A bit more info…

Wasn’t able to open the left side yet but found a pin hole leak on it, photos attached.

oil coming out of left side is yellow/clear. Oil coming out of right side is dark brown/black

talked to a friend who said could be where my tranny oil is going and that he just leaves his right side capped and doesn’t ever drain it480AC6AA-99E6-4F1F-ACBC-5DA0BA323151.jpegAB9E8A9F-47DB-4CED-B70C-9EA6F05773F3.jpeg AB9E8A9F-47DB-4CED-B70C-9EA6F05773F3.jpeg
 

Bluox

Senior Member
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Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Keep an eye on your transmission oil see if it goes down.
You need to pull both drain plugs and check for swarf, don't really need to drain them.
Look under the tub where the rippers are attached and check for cracks.
Don't overfill the transmission and clean the vents on the top of the brake housings .
Kinda looks like your track rollers are wore out.
Bob
 

nicky 68a

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Apr 14, 2013
Messages
1,164
Location
england
Very common to have final drives over full on old D8’s.They weep through the seals that may have hardened off.
Obviously,it can be other reasons,but I wouldn’t worry about it.
 

Check Break

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Jan 21, 2012
Messages
469
Location
USA
cracked open the finals today (well one of them, other side broke my ratchet) and it was filled with excess oil. Didn’t shower me like you said but was pouring out the fill plug.

Is this the duo cone seal and what does it mean for me?

Yes. Means that oil is passing from your bevel gear compartment at the pinion and draining into your final. As Nicky says, it's not uncommon. Will be worse on uneven ground. Sounds like the duo cone is not completely shot or oil would have shot about 12" up and out of the final fill hole when you removed the plug. The fill plugs are best removed with an impact, slowly. Kind of hard to do with a ratchet unless you were just in there. For now, just drain them off and keep an eye on approximately how much is coming out over what time period. You're not going to want to replace the duo cones until you need to work on the brakes or cross shaft.
 

.RC.

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Nov 27, 2012
Messages
751
Location
Qld, Australia
Why is the oil coming out there? That should be a thick casting there. Or is that a drip coming down from higher up?
 

Bluox

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Jun 19, 2010
Messages
1,960
Location
WA state
Why is the oil coming out there? That should be a thick casting there. Or is that a drip coming down from higher up?
Thats where the intermediate gear and bearings are .
Seeing as how the plug for the bearing dowel is leaking kinda makes me want to check the sump for parts.
Maybe even change the final drive filters.
Bob
 
Last edited:

bcole4

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Joined
May 6, 2020
Messages
122
Location
Hilo, HI
Thats where the intermediate gear and bearings are .
Seeing as how the plug for the bearing dowel is leaking kinda makes me want to check the sump for parts.
Maybe even change the final drive filters.
Bob


I’m almost done with the job I’m on and then taking the machine to my ranch to do some work, I will some major servicing while it’s home.

Any thoughts on the major color difference between the final oils?
 

Delmer

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Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,886
Location
WI
IF it's a pinhole, jbweld it and put a slight vacuum long enough to suck some into the hole, then forget it. use a bit of brake cleaner to clean the hole with vacuum applied first. if it's a crack, then you have other issues.
 
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