Readying for the KW

[DMiller]

Opened new front seal box
Same as what was in it
Will drop two mains and plastigage
Again.

 

[DMiller]

Make shift stethoscope, taped off front ports
Blow thru air compressor supply
Air dumps from number one piston cooler

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Remind me if I ever divulge this deep into a engine to pull it so I can access everything easier. I will start it on a stand if I have to to test it before dropping it back in. You have been through hell and back with this one, you will eventually find it as I know you won't give up.

 

[pushbroom]

The steel plug to the left of the tape is sealing the main oil passage in the block. You could remove it to inspect for debris in the main oil passage. Should be able to pull it out with a magnet or push it out with a bent rod through one one the side ports on the block. The plug is just sealed with an oring and held in by the front structure. Similar plug is on the rear, have had to reseal them for leaking before.

Also when plasticgauging the crank are you jacking up the crank so the excess clearance is on the bottom not the top? It can cause an improper "good" reading.

Sorry if this is redundant info, just a couple thoughts I had.

 

[DMiller]

I will note the gear train came down with oil on it, just not dripping as would have expected to see, leads me back to a flow loss on that main gallery. Pump feeds at center of main gallery Right Side of block, that in turn feeds the Main Journals feeding rods thru crank, center main feeds the passage to the Oil Pressure tap Left Side, secondary to front main is gallery that feeds gear train, air compressor and head. Starvation at this point and air releasing into block cavity blowing into air compressor feed line indicates the leak point just have to find it.

 

[kshansen]

Remind me if I ever divulge this deep into a engine to pull it so I can access everything easier. I will start it on a stand if I have to to test it before dropping it back in. You have been through hell and back with this one, you will eventually find it as I know you won't give up.

That is how we did most of the engines we rebuilt at the quarry shop. First boss was even fussier as he would have the engines sent to appropriate dealer to have them run-in on a dyno!

 

[DMiller]

Cannot remember all the in-frames I ever performed, Driptroit, Cummins, IH, a few odd Cats, biggest was a D7 17a, myself and two others stripped it down In the Field and rebuilt it in the crawler, had to as was not able to get it on a trailer where it was. Was a standard practice at Mississippi Lime Company, not much was ever pulled unless needed crank or block work. Was handy at Continental Rebuilders where the engines came in on skids, clean up crew tore them down and tanked ALL the parts, blocks went to machine shop, cams and cranks to grinder contractor. Decked, bore alignment inspected, we started with Bare Blocks and built from square 1.

 

[DMiller]

Everything performed so far was needed, nothing is being overlooked or ignored, just time and patience consuming.

 

[DMiller]

Will hang the Cam gear and set backlash as get back from funeral services today, then ready to set timing cover but need to set gasket to the cover or plate with Hitack, it has been relaxing on a sheet of cardboard as was rolled around cardboard tubes to minimize size for shipping. Have a front seal tool coming once its in will clean off crank face better and set the damper again.

 

[petepilot]

Did you find the problem?

 

[DMiller]

Have not gotten there yet
Likely Saturday.

 

[DMiller]

First items first
Back in time and cover 75% attached sitting on mounts.
Wanted NOT swinging on hoist and cam timed to crawl under to access the cooler nozzles.

 

[DMiller]

Another potential ruled out
Cooler nozzles all intact no cracks no loose retainer bolts
No visible cracks on main gallery

 

[DMiller]

Coming to
Point of no return
Remove engine from chassis
Strip completely as out of removable components as a problem.

Block cracked across main gallery is all that is left.

 

[56wrench]

How about a cracked flair on one of those steel tubes? Or any other internal tube on the pressure side of the lube system?

 

[56wrench]

Looks like a funny mark inside that one flair on the LH side of the picture

 

[skyking1]

all i see is dirt. But yeah, this is frustrating for you Dave.

 

[56wrench]

When i suspect a cracked tubing flair i heat it lightly with a torch and it shows up right away usually

 

[DMiller]

Beginning to ask myself why I wasted my time and effort, will be a year or more getting any further.

 

[DMiller]

Used blocks have become scarce commodities $2000-$2500 used needing machine work and freight to get it here, all the gaskets sets and the once use head rod and rocker bolts then can a used block show up also crap that would set the $$ level to useless.

Then still have remaining drive train work, pretty well depressed currently. Seriously considering parting it out now.