TD8E Idler - Track Adjuster Won't Move

[NWOutlawMX]

I have a 1986 International TD8E that the track came off because I was an idiot and forgot some large boulders in the area that the grass had covered. As soon as it came off I stopped so the track stayed pretty close to where it should be in relation. I thought OK, raise it up, loosen the tensioner push the track back on and good to go. First I removed #17 and as i loosened it up some grease came out of a hole. I completely removed it, then I completely removed #18 with the #19 zero in it. I then tried to push the idler assembly in but it refuses to move. I have attached the page out of the manual and posted a video of trying to push it in with the excavator. Am I missing something, why won't it move at all??

 

[CavinJim]

Even with good, fresh grease in the assembly it still takes a lot of force to push the idler back and the dozer would rather roll. Better to pinch it--put something solid (4x4 or more) between the blade and the idler and use the angle to push it back. Or you could just keep pushing it like you are till it hits one of those biggish rocks and maybe then it'll work. If there's no dried up grease in it.

 

[Junkyard]

Loosen and/or remove the plates and shims used to center the roller in the frame. That should let it slide the rest of the way back, which doesn't appear to be much farther based on the location in the video. May have to bite the bullet and break the track to get it back on. Is it an alligator master or a pin type?

Junkyard

 

[Bls repair]

Have you tried to pump it out a little bit to see if you can get it to move

 

[NWOutlawMX]

The dozer is at another location and I'm getting ready to head out there for the day. I ended up moving it out of that spot and up on a harder flat spot last night. Going to get it blocked up. I did end up removing the plates and shims but didn't apply any pressure yet, so I'll try a block of wood and the blade. If that doesn't work I'll put the fittings back in and see if I can get it to move out. I've only owned this for a few years so it's possible the previous owner took a link out and the adjuster is already all the way in. I think it's a pin type, I'll get some pictures posted later.

 

[DMiller]

I prefer a chain and come along as I know it is pulling straight as well not abusing the idler. Try to get a short chain around the yoke for a drag point.

 

[Bluox]

Pull the idler off and see if the cylinder has something in it.
good luck
Bob

 

[squidrig]

Could be a stone wedged in behind it or more likely it's already fully retracted and that's why the chain fell off in the first place

 

[NWOutlawMX]

I used every tip mentioned. First I tried to put grease in it to get it to move out, no luck. When I took the fittings out some grease came back out so it's going in. So then I got a block of wood and pushed in on it with the blade a few times and still wouldn't move. That was actually a better way because I could push exactly on the idler in a straight line. I then tried a chain, strap and come along - still nothing. It looks like it might be halfway through the travel at the idler wheel but I have yet to find what the full travel distance is. So then I pulled on it a little but the thing came out so I took the idler off, definitely rusted up. I only have a small shop press so I went to a local equipment place and it's now been sitting in their press and has moved some but waiting to hear if they can get it working correctly
.

 

[NWOutlawMX]

When I was comparing sides I noticed this large crack on the other side in the spring housing. Not sure what would cause this crack but looks like someone applied a whole lot of pressure to make it crack. The adjuster looks the same, completely rusted.

 

[NWOutlawMX]

So if the adjuster was in as far as it goes, even when I get it working means I'll have to split the track to get it on. I'm pretty sure it's a master pin type. The picture isn't as good as I thought but the link at the top and the pin on the left has a large indentation on it and looks different than all the others. How much pressure would it take to drive this out. I was looking at a 4 ton portapower at harbor freight and I have a small lincoln welder. Was thinking I could try and make my own. Is 4 tons enough?? I haven't started searching for ideas on this yet.

 

[DMiller]

You will be lucky to move it at 50 ton. I use a 20# sledge swing with all I can get on the link ears having been heated to get them to somewhat expand. I either weld a length(foot or so) of heavy wall pipe to the link ear or end up devising a method to clamp it shimmed to the track shoe for that pin, slide a piece of cold or hot roll just slightly smaller than the pin inside the tube and flail for all I have.

Others with access to new master pins use a gas axe and hollow out the ends to get it to come loose then replace it.

As far as forcing a adjuster piston into something that is tight lodging it ever so tighter I would be finding a way to get it apart an see what is wrong inside.

 

[squidrig]

First the adjuster rod is probably toast. if u can get it separated from the yoke u might be able to put it in a lathe and take some of the high spots off but it is badly corroded and pitted which will cause the grease to leak out if the seals ride on that portion of the shaft. Once u get the high spots off and get it moving freely it will probably be okay for the life of the current chains but won't work with a new set because of the pitted portions. As far as the master link goes if u cleanup both ends of it real good making sure there isn't any pin retainer or weld on either end then u can weld an appropriate size piece of round stock to an 18-24" piece of scrap making A tee for a handle so a helper can hold it while u hit it with a sledge as long as it's held solid and not bouncing around the pin usually come out sometimes a little heat helps too edit dmiller took the words out of my mouth lol

 

[squidrig]

The crack can be ground out a little and welded and hopefully the adjuster on that side still moves freely

 

[squidrig]

 

[squidrig]

Should look like this one

 

[Bls repair]

Before buying a master link I would check to see how many links the chain should have to how many you do have. If a link was removed the chain is worn out.

 

[NWOutlawMX]

View attachment 170211 View attachment 170212

That's exactly what I figured would have to be done, replace the rod and seals. Great site, nice that they already have them. Next step I guess is to get the old one out and inspect. Hopefully the whole unit isn't bad.

 

[NWOutlawMX]

Tried to get the old one to move but couldn't. Ended up buying the whole unit from Broken Tractor and installed. I really didn't want to learn how to get a pin out so I improvised with a pipe and some chain and got the track back on so that sides fixed.

At some point I'm going to have to learn how to split a track to fix the other side and now I've noticed the excavator getting pretty lose but when I went to adjust I can tell it is close to full out.