Tack welding pads to chain links?

[ih100]

If I were forced to do this, I'd go with 312 stick, and put the welds where I could get at them with a 1 mm cutting disc. 312 will work on dissimilar steels and is a bit easier to use than 309, imo.

 

[fixou812]

Some folks may only have a wire feed welding machine.
Some just a stick machine.
Suppose you just had a stick machine and
then you decided not to use a modified stainless rod. ...

 

[fixou812]

My first thought would be what Free welding rod is in the shop
and which would be best for the tractor I'm applying it on.

 

[fixou812]

Try a little of the Free rod everywhere. ......half inch tacks
assuming you can move it. ....drive it back and see which ones crack
then decide which Free rod works best for you.

 

[fixou812]

Assuming you want to melt a few different flavor(s) rods down then decide which one suits you delicate pallet'...
And you only had two flavors in carbon, flavor A or flavor B...

 

[fixou812]

Type A would be what is called an All position rod. (Let's call that organic flux)
Then the other. B. Would be the metal in the flux rod...the 7018 Rod at times called LH or low hydrogen.

 

[fixou812]

The rod A's say 6010 6011 7010 burn nicely in rust dirt and paint etc
B. Not as good....the 7018 or 8018

 

[fixou812]

A rods are sometimes called P rod for 5 position. ...an All position rod
"...that stuff never gets stale" or "...that stuff runs Better wet, damp."
The other rod the high deposit or the Metal in the flux rod...the LH or low hydrogen ....yes it gets stale....the iron in the flux rusts'
But is still very suitable for welding flat.

 

[PA Track & Welding]

If bolts are 5/8, ask cat for D-4H bolts. They have a bigger shank diameter. Bigger shank hopefully fill extra space in worn holess on the pad and link. If 3/4 use D6-H track nut and bouts. Then weld.

 

[Welder Dave]

I realize this is an old post but maybe can clear some things up and save people some money. 7018 should be fine but what machine are you talking about? 7018 is the recommended rod for welding ice lugs to pads or welding new grousers on so welding the pads to the links shouldn't be a problem. Use a couple hundred deg's preheat if you want but if you put say a 4" weld on the outside of the rails on both sides, the pad isn't going anywhere. It's not like it's a brand new undercarriage you're trying to save. Why spend a fortune on stainless rods if you don't need to. I welded a master link and pad up with 7018 because the bolt holes were stripped and it help for a few years till I replaced the undercarriage. Rails used to rebuilt by welding as well which also indicates you don't need exotic rods to weld on pads or rails. Any rod with the second last number a 1 is all position whether it's 6010, 6013, 7014, 7018, 8018, 9018, 10018, 11018 or 12018 etc., etc. If it's number 2 is for flat and horizontal. MIG (ER70S-6) could work too but run it hot and preheat for sure. MIG cools faster so preheat is more important.