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Please help Losing water freightliner with cat 3306 fld 112

RZucker

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For the compressor, it will NOT set off the CO monitor liquid as a first step, when it cycles off or unloads the bubbles would then stop as the compression phase is not working just bypassing air in and out the intake. Can also force unload the compressor putting 110lbs shop air to the sensing line port on the unloader/regulator.
One other possibility would be to observe the bubbles in the radiator while cracking injector lines to cut out cylinders one at a time. It may not eliminate the bubbles but can reduce them enough to pinpoint the cylinder causing the problem.
 

morcam

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I think its a great idea I'll work on it tomorrow will try and see if the bubbles are present when compressor goes on bypass mode , also I guess I can disconnect the compressor out line to the tanks to let air out to the exterior this way there is no pressure at all in the system and all compressed air is exiting the compressor , I will also do the co monitor liquid , it will be late but will post findings late tomorrow night . this truck did 500 miles today not a hiccup , i'ts puzzling to me , by the way spoke to my mechanic and he agrees with you all with in case of having to go with a different engine he is firmly pro staying with 3306 nothing else so we will concentrate on the task at hand , it makes sense it can well be the compressor .thank you
 

morcam

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ok , sorry for the time it took me to write again , after some digging around I definitely have some water coming in to a piston its water locking at start up a little bit ,still no sign of water in oil but like one of you guys said it's evaporating during the day not enough to discolor the oil . I think its got to be from compression to exhaust looks to me more of a cracked head than anything , my mechanic does not want to touch it till after the year that not convenient to me , truck is working every day 300 -400 miles a day , I'm inclined into doing it my self would have to find torque specs and where to buy the parts , have looked at ebay they sell new heads for around $ 600 and new bolts and gaskets . all injectors are about 1 year old , what do you all think , worth doing or just waiting it out its a better option . I have a barn shop compressor and a lot of tools done gas engines total rebuilt chevys 350 6 in line fords , worked on a cummings 5.9 , a few engines but never worked in the larger diesels engines . might me more than I can chew . any thoughts ?
 

crane operator

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The water in the compression chamber isn't doing anything any good. Don't wait for it to self destruct, it will only be more expensive. The big diesel just means everything is bigger and heavier, bigger tools, and probably a hoist to pull the head.
 

Cmark

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If it's doing 3-400 miles/day of paying work just get it in to a professional repair shop. It'll pay the repair off in a couple of months.
 

DMiller

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Agree with all on getting it done now, awaiting the inevitable melt down does not do the work or the engine any good where water in a cylinder leads to melt down a piston or a bent rod if has not already done or started the latter. A bent rod leads to catastrophic failure and could cost the entire engine.
 

kshansen

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Agree with all on getting it done now, awaiting the inevitable melt down does not do the work or the engine any good where water in a cylinder leads to melt down a piston or a bent rod if has not already done or started the latter. A bent rod leads to catastrophic failure and could cost the entire engine.
Yes waiting for a rod to poke out the side of the block is for sure not going to make your day!

If mechanic does not want to do the job then find another mechanic. I can't believe there isn't more than one guy in Florida who can work on that engine. It's not like you have a turbo charger Maserati there!

Bet there are several retired Cat mechanics in Florida, just need to find one who is in the mood to get dirty again!
 

morcam

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thumbnail.jpg Friday as I was finishing my last trip air brake compressor broke a rod made a hole on the side of the compressor ( nice ) I'm thinking now that it may well have been the real problem to begin with , its a tu flo 750 # 1091318 I think it converts into # 109287x I'll let you know how this all comes out .having problems finding it quick . I think I'm ordering it tomorrow at napa $ 400 .00 not bad the bad is it will take about a week , also another problem is my core has a hole on the side and the core is over 500 , that might get crazy , in the worst case can buy one in the junk yard and return that one , have a question for you all can a 12v. heavy duty constant duty compressor be installed on the truck ? is it allowed ? I don't see why not except for that the air being used on my present compressor is extracting air from the engine like a vacuum , just a question not sure if it's done or not .
 

DMiller

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Federal Code is under 49CFR571.121 S51.1 Requires compressor 'Engine driven' Only reason the air intake is tied to the engine is for filtered air from the intake. Many just have a round filter under a spring clipped cap.
 

Truck Shop

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The Napa is a Midland brand nothing wrong with that a genuine Bendix will probably cost another $200. The hole in the side probably won't matter either as a core.
And no you can't use a 12V compressor. The turbo is pressurizing the intake air for the compressor.

Truck Shop
 

crane operator

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If you're in a hurry, I've used many a junkyard compressor, if there's a good yard near you. Instead of buying one for core, buy one and slap it on. A week at this time of year can be until jan 15.
 

morcam

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very true that's why I'm waiting today to order it have a place in Tampa Florida that may have a good used unit . have bought stuff from them before .
 

DMiller

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I had a brain cell fire that may mean nothing but still, is your engine set up with a coolant after cooler in the intake? I know most of the later year engines went to air/air.
 

DMiller

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Probably Air to Air aftercooling that late a model, should not have any consequence. My old brain just running amok again.
 

kshansen

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Not sure Dmiller don't know what that means . My motor is a cat 3306 1995 . mechanical
Do you have a S/N for this engine? I think the point DMiller was getting at is if engine has a water cooled after cooler it could be the cause of the coolant loss.

Not sure if coolant was getting into the air compressor if it would cause a broken rod. I can see where the coolant cold possibly not go through the outlet valve fast enough to cause a partial hydro-static lock condition.

If the coolant was getting into the compressor I would think you would be seeing signs of it in the air tanks.
 

DMiller

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That is a point. That style head has a integral intake, I wonder if might be cracked in that gallery or a intake port? Compressed air from the turbo could keep it pressurized enough to back pressure coolant under load.
 

RZucker

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Do you have a S/N for this engine? I think the point DMiller was getting at is if engine has a water cooled after cooler it could be the cause of the coolant loss.

Not sure if coolant was getting into the air compressor if it would cause a broken rod. I can see where the coolant cold possibly not go through the outlet valve fast enough to cause a partial hydro-static lock condition.

If the coolant was getting into the compressor I would think you would be seeing signs of it in the air tanks.
I'm going to throw out a guess that the compressor rod failed from coolant contaminating lube oil. If the op doesn't stop and cure this issue an engine rod is next. He's already stated there is a slight hydro lock when starting the engine. Myself... this would have been parked and repaired ASAP. I've seen Detroits parked for lunch blow a rod out the side of the block due to hydro lock when they were restarted. Coolant leaks are not predictable.
 
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