No throttle response on case cx160

[looneytunes]

I have no response from the throttle dial in cab. The screen is showing electrical problem. This was after I welded a crack in the the bell housing where the pump attaches to it. I small fire develop in the corner below the throttle motor and it got the throttle motor harness plug hot and melted insulation on 5 or 6 wires. I spliced and replaced those wires and still no response from dial in cab. All fuses are good and throttle motor didnt get hot and appears to b e in good shape. I noticed one wire that was stiff and appeared to have got hot thru current and pretty sure it was a ground wire. I am wondering if it smoked the throttle driver in cab. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jeff

 

[jcb jeff]

In theory you should un plug the computer plus the motor driver for the throttle and battery before welding.
When you welded it where did you have your earth clamp positioned i hope on the engine as it may of caused issues if it found an earth source through the loom and throttle motor.
Make sure the wires are good and not burnt in loom any where else what type of dash have you got if its a long grey one i might have the pin data for the test of motor and driver ecu.

 

[looneytunes]

In theory you should un plug the computer plus the motor driver for the throttle and battery before welding.
When you welded it where did you have your earth clamp positioned i hope on the engine as it may of caused issues if it found an earth source through the loom and throttle motor.
Make sure the wires are good and not burnt in loom any where else what type of dash have you got if its a long grey one i might have the pin data for the test of motor and driver ecu.

 

[looneytunes]

Yeah I knew better. U know how it is when ur tired, in a hurry, irritated, and all that stuff. I had just finished put that main shaft in the left drive motor and that damn thang is not acting right. Its like it not getting the pilot pressure to release the brake. Have to work the boom to get it to release and pull. Every was working okay till it stripped the splines on that shaft. I'd one problem at a time. Yeah I clamped the ground to the bell housing right beside where I was welding. I think I have the long dash along the right side. Nothing in front all along the side. I sure appreciate the information.

 

[jcb jeff]

Have you got more trouble s as well as the throttle then.

 

[jcb jeff]

Some info for you

 

[jcb jeff]

And some more

 

[jcb jeff]

This is the pin data for the driver and throttle system this is for a JCB XO with the long straight grey dash.
The wiring near the hydraulic pump always seems to either rub through or get hot and brittle so as you have had a fire as well this might be help as you should be able to test continuity of the loom.

 

[jcb jeff]

On the brake issue is all the hoses back on correct.

 

[looneytunes]

The throttle issue and the drive are the only problems with it. Yeah I got lines back on right. I didn't adjust those secondary relief values either when I took em off. I have to use another function off of p2 to get the pressure up enough before that drive will unlock and pull. Sometimes it won't unlock all the way. Idk i

I tthink that pin data will help me Jeff. I' m fixing to start doing continuity checks on the wires going to the throttle motor. I sure appreciate that information and ur time.. I'll keep u posted on the progress.

 

[jcb jeff]

In regards to the track motor brake are you getting pressure down to the track motors ie servo pressure to release the brake .
Does the other side release and what did you do/how far did you go into the track motor.
If you lift the track off the ground will it work then or does it just drag the hyds down under load.

 

[looneytunes]

I haven' t messed with that hoe yet. A small dry spell down here has everybody wanting something.
I lost that one side on the hoe good while back. I opened it up and the main center shaft going in the drive motor and motor shaft splines were stripped. I pulled all that out and put oil back in it and been limping around for a month. Got 3g worth of parts and finallyI replaced the parts. Opened the outside cover of drive to replace that one center shaft, the holder that splines to the center shaft. I replaced the needle bearing on them 3 planetary gears that go on that holder. I think normal wear on them needle bearing started letting that shaft run stupid. I had to replace the main center shaft in that drive motor also. Took the cover off the inside and opened that motor up to get the shaft in it. I' not saying I didn't do something in there to cause it not to pull but was damn careful. No it will not pull initially when track is off the ground. On that ck 1 screen and watching the pumps pressure, the pressure will just come up to 500 lbs or so when petal is pushed while the other side while the side p1 will jump up to 1200 right the bat.÷ Nothing loads up pump but when using something else off p2 and stop with the petal down itl'l turn for a short time then stop again.

 

[jcb jeff]

In the drive gearbox side is it the walking type with the rollers by chance.

 

[rmllarue91]

Best advice is to slow down one issue at a time when I get busy I try and go fast and it gets worse quick. Does it have a separate brake line? As I remember they only have 3 hoses case drain and directions. swash or speed and brake is done by valving. In dive motor. Might of pinched the brake piston seals. Using boom functions you might be getting more than one pump flow. And just over powering brake can you here engine load when working just that drive if it don't release?

 

[GaryHoff]

In regards to your traveling issues,
If you believe that everything was assembled correctly on the travel motor, then the easiest test is to swap the lines at the swivel. (I believe the top hoses are long enough to reach, but you will have to verify this)

If the travel was working fine before you opened the travel motor for a stripped shaft, logic says that it should be working after.
My personal thoughts are that the valve plate (item 53) is not in the correct position. It may be 180 degrees out, or the dowel pins may have fallen out during assembly (they are hard to keep in place) I would recommend removing the whole final drive before attempting repair on the motor, so everything can be vertical during assembly. You may have pinched a brake seal, but that is less likely in my experience.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

[looneytunes]

I bet your right on the valve plate being 180 out. If that centering dowel is small like a needle bearing, that could be a problem to because i remember having that after I put it back together. Thanks alot Gary.. I will keep y'all posted. It might be a few days this cold weather has slowed me way down.

 

[looneytunes]

Gary I still haven't got that brake to release in that track drive motor. Switching the lines didn't make any difference either. So there is some little something I didn't get put back right in that motor. Can u send me a breakdown of that drive motor for that cx160?Plain cx160 with no letters behind the 160. I sure would appreciate it.

 

[looneytunes]

Scratch that breakdown of that drive motor. I purchased a service manual and downloaded it online. I think my problem is the the centring pins on the distribution plate they are missing. I can see that plate is scratched. It has been running stupid that little bit of time I tried it. Not positive thats the problem will find out soon as i get them. Will keep yall posted.

 

[GaryHoff]

Sounds like your on the right track now, best of luck.

 

[looneytunes]

I'm thinking u hit the nail on the head Gary. I knew u were a genius on fixing this stuff. Sure appreciate the info everybody. As far as throttle motor issues, I got a new throttle driver ordered. Continuity on the motor wires were good going to the cab so i assumed it was the driver.