New toy...

[DIYDAVE]

Picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HomCom-Heavy-Torque-Multiplier-Wrench/dp/B00G3NA6C0 at the york farm show. Been looking at them, on line, for a couple weeks. Price on amazon went down, between when I looked, and when I bought. Still did't do too bad(paid $60), and I like to look at chinese stuff before I buy it... its got all the sockets I need to take the budds off my Isuzu NPR, and I may be using it for other stuff, too. Gotta try it out on a big stuck bolt on a plow, soon, just wanna see what its capable of...

 

[Ronsii]

I picked up one of the $30 ones off ebay, wouldn't work with the wheels I wanted it for (forklift) but seems to work great for other things. i know the chinstructions warn about putting more than 'hand' torque on the input... they just don't say what hand torque is ;-)

 

[thepumpguysc]

I've seen other threads & posts about them.. nothing but good things to report..

 

[old-iron-habit]

I ordered one this morning. Will see how it turns out. There are times I could use one. Do they work for tightening also. I could see a use on equipment wheels for getting them tight enough.

 

[DIYDAVE]

For me, "hand torque" is about 300 ft lbs. I know this, cause I once had to torque a wheel motor nut to that, and with a cheater bar, on the 3/4" torque wrench, with a long cheater bar, it was all I could do to get it there...

As far as tightening goes, you have to put the leverage leg on the other side of the nut. I only torque the budds on my truck, to the limit of my 275 lb arse, on the stock lug wrench...

 

[thepumpguysc]

Back before all my back surgerys, I could torque the drive nut on a Bosch injection pump to 200ftlbs w/ 1 hand, w/ a 1/2 in drive snapon t. wrench.. day in & day out..
Might be a reason my back is screwed up, eh?? Lol
NOW it takes 2 hands, to lift a gallon of milk..

 

[old-iron-habit]

For me, "hand torque" is about 300 ft lbs. I know this, cause I once had to torque a wheel motor nut to that, and with a cheater bar, on the 3/4" torque wrench, with a long cheater bar, it was all I could do to get it there...

As far as tightening goes, you have to put the leverage leg on the other side of the nut. I only torque the budds on my truck, to the limit of my 275 lb arse, on the stock lug wrench...

I have one wheel on a old feller buncher that I have to watch the lug nuts on as the wheel is a bit worn on the holes. I check them every few days with a 4 foot bar. Think I have them sticking tight now but would be easier to check them with perhaps.

 

[DIYDAVE]

I read the chinstructions, today, best I can make out of the pidgin english, is that you are approaching its torque limits, when you let go the crank, and it springs back a half turn. It says 5000 newton meters, but I aint got no fig newtons that long, so I don't really know what that means.

I put a paint mark on the input and output shafts, and for grins, counted 16 turns input, to make a 1/4 turn output, so that makes it a 64:1 ratio.:beatsme

 

[old-iron-habit]

I read the chinstructions, today, best I can make out of the pidgin english, is that you are approaching its torque limits, when you let go the crank, and it springs back a half turn. It says 5000 newton meters, but I aint got no fig newtons that long, so I don't really know what that means.

I put a paint mark on the input and output shafts, and for grins, counted 16 turns input, to make a 1/4 turn output, so that makes it a 64:1 ratio.:beatsme

Holy Crap, That's a lot of multiplications. Should not need a cheater bar with that much gearing. Sounds like it would be fairly easy to stretch bolts to submission fairly easy.

 

[SARuger]

I have one of these on the truck, it doesn't work for most things I work on. I just fire up my on board compressor and the 3/4" drive impact