new ride

[old-iron-habit]

I checked,it has a sticker on the inside that reads DO NOT exceed maximum useful life. There is no date of manufacture on it but there is a stamp embossed into it, I suspect that would date it. I'll be using it till it's broken or lost or I'm broken or lost.

Sounds like the same sticker as the other hats. Another one of the ambiguous OSHA rules where they don't go by the date of manufacture but by when it was put into service. The answer to the inspectors question, "When did you get the hardhat son" should always be "Just May of last year". A couple of years ago at the MN yearly OSHA summit they tried to get a date of manufacture as the start of service with a 5 year lifespan. It was proven after much contractor testimony that there was no deterioration when still in the box, so it got shut down. Then they tried to get a "record of start" paperwork requirement administrated by the contractors but that got voted down also. Always some new crap by the upper managers to try to show they are valuable.

 

[Tradesman]

Wow I had another 11 hour day on a 3500 sqr ft. house with a three car garage. it was kinda rainy and miserable, good news is I never got wet The framers kept apologizing for it taking so long, What I said : no problem its a big house and you guys are doing a great job. What I was thinking: No problem, screw in as much time as you want the clock is running and I've got no where else to be, its Saturday.
Ps. to show I've got a heart I only billed them for 10, 1/2 an hour while they had lunch and another half when I was shut down for over an hour while they straightened and tied down the garage.

 

[Tradesman]

The only thing I like better than pouring them is tearing them down

 

[Tradesman]

First picture is of the hydraulic jack platform, they had built it inside the big silo and when we got to the ground with it I picked it out and set it beside the small silo. Then they hooked me to the dome on the small silo, I picked it off an dropped the platform inside, it saved them from having to disassemble and reassemble it.
The skid steer blew a hydraulic line so I had to load the truck. Dam now I had to change my radius with every pick.
Oops the pictures are reversed!
Ps. The skiddy isn't under the load!

 

[Tradesman]

I had to put the boom down while a thunder head rolled through. So I did some snooping around in the old buildings, apparently the messiah is coming, I wonder if that's what the thunder and lightning was about?

 

[Tradesman]

I wish I could just STOP IT but I can't. Has anyone on here ever added wireless remote for your outriggers, mine are electric over hydraulic controls all ready so in my simple way of thinking adding a remote should be fairly simple ( relatively speaking ).

 

[classictruckman]

Elliott will sell you one (maybe through cropac) which plugs into the outrigger wiring harness without any modification I do believe

 

[Tradesman]

Elliott will sell you one (maybe through cropac) which plugs into the outrigger wiring harness without any modification I do believe

thanks Ill give them a call. maybe scary what it will cost.

 

[crane operator]

The wrecker companies have all got remotes now on their controls. There are even "aftermarket" kits for converting a old set up.

Probably finding out who actually makes your control valves would be the first step I would take. They may have a radio control alternative, or add on. Elliot isn't making the valves themselves, they're having someone (parker, griesen, etc) make it for them.

That said, its all a frequency thing, I know all the radio crane scales, and a2b systems use specific frequency codes, some old ones used rolling codes.

The danger is that someones garage door opener is unfortunately set up to the same frequency, across the street from where you're working. They come home for lunch, and let down your outrigger when they open their garage door.

I know Altec offered a complete remote for all crane functions, you wear it on your waist like a concrete pump truck controller. I don't think it controlled outriggers though, just crane functions. So they evidently aren't worried about interference.

 

[classictruckman]

Elliott uses electric/hydraulic controls for their outriggers, their valves are right at each outrigger beam so I don't know that an aftermarket system would be cheaper or easier. Better maybe though.

 

[Tradesman]

Yikes phoned today $4,000 plus installation. It's not plug and play, I didn't ask what was involved in installing it, that's too much to spend just because it would be nice to have.

 

[crane operator]

Here you go tradesman- $369.00, for the extra $3631, I'll come mount it and hook it up. They have a couple options, but this is basically 8 momentary functions, which would be each jack up and down, you wouldn't be able to do beams, but I don't think you want that. Just wire into each electric valve.

https://www.controlallwireless.com/...-button-remote-system-extended-range-antenna/

 

[crane operator]

I'll take check, credit card, or cash........

 

[Tradesman]

Would they have to have a dedicated line to each controller or could they tie in at the fuse box

 

[crane operator]

Looks like the controller is available as 12v or 24v, your elliot is probably 12v. You would just need to wire it in anywhere that would need a 12v activation signal, to control that function.

If you can control both sides jacks from only one box, you could mount it right beside that box and wire it in. If the only place to control them all is upstairs, I would put the box up there and wire into that switch assembly. Or you can run individual wires to each solenoid. If each side box only controls one side of the crane, you could still mount the box downstairs if you want, and just run wires into each side box.

If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, any competent heavy equipment, tractor, or even a good automotive mechanic could figure it out in short order. Heavy equipment or tractor mechanic would be more familiar with the hydraulic control element, but its not that complicated.

It mostly depends on what the boxes are like/ sealed/ weatherproofed. Pick the one that's easiest to wire into. You'll also need to bring a fused 12v input and ground probably to the unit.

Am I on the clock yet? I'll need to know when to start my installation time........

 

[crane operator]

Now that I think about it, I really need to put this on my rt crane, its the biggest pain to climb in and out of that one, to run the jacks. It would be much cheaper than putting on side control boxes.

Does the elliot have a directional control, and then the function? That's the way the groves are, and you could actually do that with just 6 functions. Left front, left rear, right front, right rear, extend, retract.

Or you could be fancy and do the extend retract with wiring so you only hit one button on the remote at a time for each jack, and do the retract/extend in your wiring box, using all 8 buttons on the remote.

 

[Tradesman]

I have a mobile guy that does repairs on my other equipment I might see if he will do it for me. I break into a cold sweat just thinking about it.

 

[crane operator]

It will make a difference if the controller is capable of sending/receiving two signals at the same time or not. If you can signal both left front and extend at the same time, you could set it up as a two button function control, using 6. Then to do left front retract, you would hit the left front button, and the retract at the same time, sending two signals to the control from the remote.

If it won't send two at the same time, you would have to use it as a 8 function, meaning you'll have to do a little wiring work around. When you send a single control, left front - retract, it would have to activate both the left front solenoid, and the retract on the directional.

If you can get it to function as a 6 button, you could use the last two buttons for cable up and down, enabling you to hook, and unhook from the bumper from the remote- if you're electric over hydro on your winch also. The elliot is electric joysticks?

 

[Knepptune]

I always wanted to just hardwire the controls to a cord. Like the newer Groves have, only with 15' instead of 3'. I think that'd be pretty simple to hook up.

I just hated climbing up and down when setting up. If you already have ground controls your spoiled anyway. Lol

 

[Natman]

My National has a little compartment with a door in the rear, I flip the door up and pull the outrigger control box out, on it's 6' tethered cord. I really like it, I can walk around and eyeball all I need to while there coming down, simple. One thing the past owner cautioned me about: make SURE the compartment door is latched, otherwise you may get to a job site and find it fell out and now all you have is a frayed corded with bare wires hanging out! Not a big deal, I make sure it's latched, plus the way the tether is jammed in there I don't think it would move anyway.

I put a full function wire remote on my 17 Terex boom truck years ago, it cost 14K but it really set me apart from my competitors, nothing like standing on the roof top right next to the HVAC guy when setting the unit down! But then I discovered the joys of a sit down cab, and the remote concept went out the window.