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New Holland T4030 injection pump slipped timing

wrwtexan

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Indy Farm Wrench, heavy land clearing, rancher
I have a T4030 with and Iveco 4 cylinder engine and a Bosch VE pump with a keyless drive on it that has slipped time. For proper pump removal, it has to be locked, but, in this predicament, that isn't an option as I have to reset the pump and the engine. I have looked all over the net and can't find much info other than using a dial indicator on the plunger for stroke measurement as there isn't a notch for lockdown on the driveline. Any ideas on resetting short of pulling it off and taking it in to a shop?
 

thepumpguysc

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I have to have the pump# inorder to tell you which cyl.on the pump is #1.
Then you put the keyway to that cylinder on the pump.. their marked w/ letters.. ABCD.
Using a dial indicator in the back..you should have enough play in the slots to roll it into spec.
 

wrwtexan

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I didn't want to come straight out and ask for you but thanks pumpguy! I may be all wet on my assumption but after talking to my local serviceman, timing slip makes the most sense as it has been whitesmoking at higher RPM and power output, hard starting, and now wouldn't start at all even with ether. It is however putting out a good shot of fuel at the pump outlet with the line disconnected and pulled away.
Here are the numbers from the pump in line order;
0 460 424 410
VE4 12F1150R2017
504246318
886 000051
2037-02-1
I haven't removed the pump from the engine and the shaft is hard to see but I'll try to locate the keyway and mark it on the snout. It's already loose in the gear so I'm committed to fixing it now. I've also found a notch in the flywheel which I will at present assume is a timing crank timing locator.
 

thepumpguysc

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I WAS surprised to see this on the open forum to be honest.. its not like we're strangers.. lol
I have to wait till the shop opens to get the specs.. check back later..
The end of the dr. shaft should have a slash mark on it.. in most cases, that tells you where the key reff. is..
Are you ABSOLUTLY SURE the gear is not cut for a key??
 

thepumpguysc

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The timing spec for the lock timing.. and IT DOES HAVE lock timing is .86mm at outlet "A"..
BUT.. It has a cold start device on the side.. That HAS TO BE disconnected.. before trying to set the timing.
Otherwise, your timing the pump to the engine in a very advanced timing position and when the engine heats up and the device goes to normal run position, the timing is VERY retarded,, ALOT of white smoke..
SO.. just unbolt it from the head, let the mechanism arm rest on the small stop plate and proceed w the timing.
Once the timing is set to .86mm at outlet "A" and the dr.sh is locked.. pull the CSD back in position and secure it back to the head.
Do NOT disassemble the cold start device or change any settings in it.. The way I told you how to do it is the best and fastest way..
You COULD energize the solenoid but you'd be there for 10-15 minutes waiting.. its just easier to remove it..
The bolts and screws that hold it on are very tight.. your going to need a hand imact driver and hammer to get them loose.
Looking at the front of the pump, the drive shaft.. the pump rotation is clockwise.. just put the nut on the shaft and rotate the dr.sh until the keyway is in the general position of A and screw your dial ind. in the back.. You know how to do the rest I'm sure..
 

thepumpguysc

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Just a friendly reminder to degrease the shaft, nut and gear before torqueing. 90 ftlbs seems to do the trick.
A dab of blue loc-tite on the threads wouldn't hurt either..
Don't forget to un-lock the pump and slide the washer back under the bolt.. BEFORE starting the engine.. :rolleyes:
 

wrwtexan

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MANY THANKS! Part of my thought on leaving this on the open forum is it might help someone else out as you always provide a detailed description of what to do. No sense in me being the only beneficiary. I found HEF back when I was trying to troubleshoot my old TD20 dozer while searching the net for info. I've found it funny to see one of my posts come up when I do a search.
I'm nearly certain there isn't a keyway in shaft and gear but I will see if I can check more closely as the timing cover and radiator shroud make it difficult to see into the area. The shaft has four slashes on the end as in a 't' pattern.
I sent an email to you.
 

thepumpguysc

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The pump IS NOT keyed BUT it does have the lock timing bolt, so it not going to be hard to hold.
Bosch keeps making it harder & harder to take little shortcuts like we use to.. lol
I would just remove the pump.. no sense in fighting w/ it.. probably not enough room to get the tool in there anyway.
Let me know if you need anything else.. TPG
 

wrwtexan

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For anyone interested in this thread, I finally solved the problem with a help from pumpguysc:notworthy and my local diesel shop owner. To preface why I had difficulty getting this problem fixed, I have grown up on older tractors with Roosa and CAV pumps on them that when they are starved for fuel, they loose power, start missing and if the load isn't removed in time or they are out of fuel, they die without belching out any smoke. This little unit however has an emissionized pump which when starving for fuel, through dynamic timing going off the rails from low fuel pressure would roll white smoke out like a mosquito fogger before loading down and if I didn't get out of it quick enough, would die. I would check output at the pump and it would be good. I changed the fuel filter and verified a good ****** of fuel when stroking the transfer pump hand lever, still no change. With those results, I was thinking an pump internal problem. I had sent the pump to pumpguy and he verified it to be in good working order and reset the timing. After nearly giving up and pulling the pump again, on advice not fitting my preconceived notion of what it should do on lack of fuel, I removed the fuel line into the transfer pump and got little flow from a full tank above the engine, I blew the line back and then got a full ******. After repriming, it ran perfectly. I spent a lot of time and frustration on nothing more than a bit of crap in the inflow line as its symptoms didn't match what I know of older pumps and machinery.
 

thepumpguysc

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Send more money..;) Lol..

This "dirt" problem, is getting more and more prevalent and I don't understand why.. Yours is the 2nd one this month..
The dirt is making its way, all the way to the filter head..
I guess its just a wake-up call for everyone to CHANGE THOSE FILTERS.!!! DONT WAIT until your having a problem..
 

wrwtexan

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Cooper, Texas
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Indy Farm Wrench, heavy land clearing, rancher
Something I am seeing very frequently now is algae in the fuel. I had been told it was mostly found in plastic tanks but I have dealt with it in steel tanks also. My personal thought it is its coming from the this biodiesel crap that's being blended in now. I think adding an organic component into the fuel is giving the gunk something to grow in. I've dealt with old machines and old good diesel that have set for years and not had the problems I am now with nearly new tractors and this new ULS bio blend diesel. I had to pull the tank off a late model JD as it kept having trash problems and upon draining it, out plopped a mass of algae that looked like a piece of liver. It was firm enough I was able to pick it up with tongs. I have started carrying a shock level biocide on my service truck for when I deal with a plugged system. I hope that it will break up the gunk as pulling a tank can be nearly if not impossible (skidsteers).
Any thoughts on my belief?
Regarding changing the filters, what I am dealing with isn't even getting out of the tank to the filter but instead is plugging the tank outlet.
 

wrwtexan

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558
Location
Cooper, Texas
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Indy Farm Wrench, heavy land clearing, rancher
For the moderators on the forum, the asterisks (******) in post #10 are supposed to be the word 's t r e a m'. Not sure how that should be a bad word...:confused: I even had to go back and edit it with spaces for it to go this time.
 

Birken Vogt

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Grass Valley, Ca
Some of my customers seem to think it is OK to run out of a 55 gallon drum with hoses stuck in the open bung...bugs and dirt fall in.

But when it rains they will be left with several inches of water on the bottom of the drum which overwhelms the water separator and fills the whole system with water.

This will trick you in diagnosing because water vapor will puff out the exhaust pipe similar to fuel vapor and make you think it is injecting without firing. It smells kind of dieselish also.

I used to think that an injection pump would be damaged by water and lack of lubrication, and I am sure they can be, but more than once I have seen them 100% full of water and simply gone back to diesel and had them run many thousands of hours as if nothing happened.
 
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