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New Bucket Teeth and Weld On Shanks 580SE

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by bowen, May 12, 2013.

  1. bowen

    bowen Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2011
    Messages:
    537
    Occupation:
    Electrical Panel Builder
    Location:
    N. GA USA
    I have a # D-37473 18” trenching bucket with the standard shanks that weld “outside” the bucket with crimp on teeth. The parts (page 544) show optional shanks (14 & 16) that weld inside the bucket, but these are also the crimp on style. My old ones are items 13 & 15.
    When I ordered these I was confused on which ones to use, so I called Coleman.

    They sold me a set that I am not sure about using. They sold me the set of 5 “forged” bucket teeth with the 5 flex-pins part # D96411 ($60.27)
    They also sold me 4) # D91886 weld on HD shanks (old # D48121-item 7) @ $14.03 ea
    These are shown on page 548 with the “Heavy Duty” bucket.

    So my question is… Should I use these or exchange them for the correct ones?
    They do not fit my bucket exactly right because the throat is too wide. If I weld these inside the bucket the outside has a small gap.
    He used page 548 to select these and should have used page 544, but he did this to get shanks that use the flex pins.

    These new teeth look good and I do not especially like the crimp on teeth, although I really do not know the pros/cons about this. At present I do not have the $70 tool to install the flex pins. I have been told that some use a bolt thru the holes..?

    I suspect these teeth will be maybe 2” longer than the ones I originally had, but mine are so worn that I can’t be sure.
    The picture is not so good because I was digging up some stumps in the mud.

    Bucket_Teeth_640-480_4-30-13 002.jpg
     
  2. Bill Smith

    Bill Smith Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2009
    Messages:
    243
    Occupation:
    Rental House Owner
    Location:
    The Near North
    We stopped using crimp on They are no good around cement removal .Try to posision a large peice of concrete to pick up and pop goes a tooth .
    I have use the type that has a steel pin with rubber sandwiched in the middle .We just drive them in with a hammer . You should always have spare teeth on hand , its the typical reason why the shanks wear down much quicker with out its tooth . Kinda like a horse with out shoes
     
  3. CRAFT

    CRAFT Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2010
    Messages:
    929
    Occupation:
    30 yrs Owner/Operator
    Location:
    100 M H,BC,Canada
    Weld on shanks (Frogs) are the only way to go ! ….. being able to change teeth to suit a job comes in really handy with all of the diff styles available today ……. looking at that mess of u'r existing teeth it might be easier to air-arc off the front plate that those are welded on to and simply get a new wear plate, layout the new frogs and pre-weld them on then install them as a unit on to u'r bucket.

    I wouldn't be too concerned about having a small gap to the outside of the bucket …. what we do is weld the frogs on with a slight turn-out (angled), so the teeth tips are slightly wider than the sides of the bucket.

    One thing tho, don't be going and welding the frogs on cold with out major pre-heating both the plate and frogs. …… can't remember the approx temp, i'm sure one of the welding guru's will chime in and help out, but we use the spit test, LOL, it's hot enough when you spit on it and it explodes or dances on the metal (it's a bush thing I guess) then weld and let it cool slowly on its own ………… Hey just another POV …… have fun …..
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2013
  4. bowen

    bowen Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2011
    Messages:
    537
    Occupation:
    Electrical Panel Builder
    Location:
    N. GA USA
    I have someone coming to help me weld these on because welding is not one of my things at all.
    I do have a blow torch but I do not know if I can get the old ones off without damaging the front edge.

    So you get the parts red hot then weld them on?? What welding rod or whatever should the guy be using?
    I suppose I will try to use the ones they sent me. My front edge is not worn all that much but that may be why the new shank fits 3/32" loose.
    I have never seen an air arc work. Is this necessary to get the old shanks off?

    My front bucker has a hairline crack across the cutting edge and I hope he can weld this also. I think this was caused by a chain hook lifting a loader off a Kubota tractor.
    I also bought me some chain hooks from Coleman to weld on the front bucket for this reason.
    Around the farm I am always pulling up fence posts or dragging a large tree out of the creek.