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Need some advise on changing a frog on the moldboard

King of Obsolete

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Jan 1, 2007
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698
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KINGDOM lynn lake manitoba
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marketing my life style
buddy barry's other grader which is a rental machine came back with the frog woren off the moldboard. a quick call to jade in edmonton and the new frogs arrived. so on monday i'll be welding them on the moldboard. any tips on this???? also the grader is a 1996 740a champion.

thansk
KoO
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CRAFT

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Jan 6, 2010
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100 M H,BC,Canada
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30 yrs Owner/Operator
Ya Right ! ....been dare done-dat ..... Had that issue a few years ago ... thought no problem, hust crank it up and stick it back on
WRONG
Had the frog break off on my exc dig bucket , when I welded it back on it wasn't to long before it broke off again ....:( ... :Banghead

Got a hold of Weldco Beales Manufacturing and asked whats the trick ... :beatsme

They sent me 8 pages on the science of welding frogs
Long story short, it came down to: ...:cool2

HEAT both the frog and the surface to be welded onto, to the point of when you spit on it the spit EXPLODES or dances on both ( you'll get the drift when U see it )

Until then don't even think about welding them together !

When its ready pour the 'OL 7018 to it and it'll stick for ever

If a guy wants to get fancy he could use the supposedly better 223, but as the old timers say, can't beat the 7018, its way cheaper ( even Princes-auto has it ....LOL) and its easy to use, and puts up with alot of crap

Did that about 6 yrs ago and everything else has broke but not the Frog

Good luck ! ...... an' Cheers :drinkup
 

King of Obsolete

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KINGDOM lynn lake manitoba
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marketing my life style
thansk guys, i have a better picture of the frog and how it is worn down plus a sot of the 2 piece frog to be welded in.

thansk
KoO
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willie59

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Dec 21, 2008
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Knoxville TN
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A frog???

You grader people sure are, um...different, G4m. :yup

Ok...so where's the 'possum on a grader? :lmao :cool:
 

Zed

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Apr 30, 2010
Messages
194
Location
Australia
preheating and post heating should be applied to any high stress area, especially anything to do with GET... I see the effects of failure to preheat ALOT, and I'm still amazed at how many trained boiler makers/welders don't follow the correct procedures.
 

mitch504

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Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
Thanks G4me you taught me two things:
1. What to call the base of the blade (it was written on the new part so I don't think y'all made it up) ... and more importantly...
2. I'm not the only smartass on here:notworthy:D
 

Grader4me

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Jan 11, 2006
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New Brunswick, Canada
Thanks G4me you taught me two things:
1. What to call the base of the blade (it was written on the new part so I don't think y'all made it up) ... and more importantly...
2. I'm not the only smartass on here:notworthy:D


LOL...I know but I just can't help it!



Ok...so where's the 'possum on a grader?


Its the section of comebobbulatermishap that attaches to the sionoctic solenoid. You didn't even know that? lol

On a serious note...its really a shame that an operator (or should I call them that) wears the blade out and gets into the "frog". Just plain stupid...Going to take alot of work to fix that...
Looking at the pictures...probably the guy was just keeping an eye on the outside edges that he could see from inside the cab. The center in most cases will wear out first. Just have to get out and check it once in awhile....
 
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bigrus

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Southern Queensland Australia
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Joystick attendant
Reverse yor edges for maximum wear

Looking at the pictures...probably the guy was just keeping an eye on the outside edges that he could see from inside the cab. The center in most cases will wear out first. Just have to get out and check it once in awhile....
Being an owner operator, I look to get the absolute most value out of GET's, so I keep a good eye on how far the edges are wearing & usually reverse the edges when the centre is wearing. By doing this I can wear them down to an even 10mm left & give them to friends with drag buckets that use grader edges upside down as cutting edges (the top side is still sharp).
 

Grader4me

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I agree that would be the best way to do it, but if the center is worn down quite a bit more than the ends, and you reversed the blades the center would catch before the ends. Make it harder to grade a road until they evened up. But...if reversed when wear in the center is noticed then it would work great.

When my blades start to wear in the center I put them on the grindstone to even them up. Grindstone = pavement...lol
 

ovrszd

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Apr 1, 2008
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Missouri
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Retired Army
Being an owner operator, I look to get the absolute most value out of GET's, so I keep a good eye on how far the edges are wearing & usually reverse the edges when the centre is wearing. By doing this I can wear them down to an even 10mm left & give them to friends with drag buckets that use grader edges upside down as cutting edges (the top side is still sharp).

I agree. I also use 8" cutter edges because I throw away a smaller percentage of the part versus 5". I can't imagine doing that to a moldboard. But I guess that's what you get with rentals.
 

ovrszd

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I agree that would be the best way to do it, but if the center is worn down quite a bit more than the ends, and you reversed the blades the center would catch before the ends. Make it harder to grade a road until they evened up. But...if reversed when wear in the center is noticed then it would work great.

I've stopped mid-day and reversed my edges so I wouldn't end up with that problem. I'll swap 8" edges 6-8 times in their life.
 

MKTEF

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Apr 5, 2007
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Norway
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Production manager
Frogs? I couldn't for my best figure out what you guy's where talking about.
Welding stuff to the moldboard?
I kept my fingers far away from the keyboard.

Still i dont se the problem...
Check out our setup; to reach the moldboard u got to sleep very loong and grind it for a long time....
(pic taken when new in 2007)
 

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