Need info on Fluids for an A/C Model D grader

[Turbotexas]

Is this it? So the rear pumpkin and the transmission both shareView attachment 167539 the same gear oil? I let a little drain out of the transmission drain plug to see if any water came out and none did but the oil was a little creamy with a white'ish color not sure about that. Also What is the drain and fill plugs for from the first pic I posted.

That's the fill plug!
Not sure about other photo and what those were

 

[repowerguy]

The pivots on the tandem drive trunnion caps are dry! Please grease them before they start breaking off the 1/2" bolts in the chain case.

 

[TumblingIQ]

The pivots on the tandem drive trunnion caps are dry! Please grease them before they start breaking off the 1/2" bolts in the chain case.

I thought I found all the zerk fittings and greased them. I found one zerk fitting on the top of the tandem drive trunnion cap on the right side but not on the left side yet. It's not in the same location as the other side. Need to clean some more dirt and dried grease off it. Thank you very much for spotting that out and calling it to my attention.

 

[DIYDAVE]

Re the oil filter, Are you talking about engine oil filter? If so, there should be a hollow steel spike, with a little hole, at the top, that sticks up, from the oil filter base. If the spike is missing, you need the spike part to get adequate oil, into the filter. It can be fabbed out of rigid copper tubing, crimped and soldered at the top, with a 1/8" hole drilled about 1/2" below the top as long as it is a tight fit, into the filter housing base, and doesn't hit the top of the filter, when you tighten it down. The little plastic thingy in the original filter might have been a field expedient repair, some shade tree mechanic did, in the past, or the stick that used to come with these filters,is now plastic, as packing.

You have to remember these filters, the correct ones, are stuffed with cotton rag media, the stick is used to keep the cotton from settling, and filling the hole, for the spike to go in. There have been problems with the wix and napa filters, (not enough media, or paper media), these will result in a no oil pressure reading. AC-Delco and others make the right filter, it is an oddball, with mayonaise jar threads, on the bottom (external threads).

I think the correct AC-Delco # is like PF459, but don't rely on my memory! Look up any A/C gas farm tractor, in the following list, to find the right filter #: A/C- B,C,CA, D-10, D-12, D-14, D15(series 1), Early D-17, WD, WD-45( the last 3 tractors at least, the gas versions) motors will bolt right up to the D-grader. Also, I think a D-15(series2) you can rob the oil filter housing off of, to convert to a newer style filter(fram PH8A?). You might have to drill and tap the mounting holes bigger, to do this, again fault my memory...

 

[DonBC]

In reading your past report you mention that the hydraulics are slow. The piping from the supply piping for the mouldboard lift and lower valves has a small orifice in the pipes to slow the flow possibly to make it easier to make fine adjustments when grading. Also some of the steel fittings used for the hydraulics are only regular steel pipe fittings that are not designed for very high pressure hydraulics. Yes, it is important to find all the grease zerks and lubricate everything. As for the drive chains, they are available at any chain supplier. I changed out the chains on one chain box on my grader as they got stretched and would jump a tooth now and then. The problem was caused by someone leaving a lost socket in the chain box. Some suppliers on allischalmers.com have reproduction manuals for these graders.

 

[TumblingIQ]

Re the oil filter, Are you talking about engine oil filter? If so, there should be a hollow steel spike, with a little hole, at the top, that sticks up, from the oil filter base. If the spike is missing, you need the spike part to get adequate oil, into the filter. It can be fabbed out of rigid copper tubing, crimped and soldered at the top, with a 1/8" hole drilled about 1/2" below the top as long as it is a tight fit, into the filter housing base, and doesn't hit the top of the filter, when you tighten it down. The little plastic thingy in the original filter might have been a field expedient repair, some shade tree mechanic did, in the past, or the stick that used to come with these filters,is now plastic, as packing.

You have to remember these filters, the correct ones, are stuffed with cotton rag media, the stick is used to keep the cotton from settling, and filling the hole, for the spike to go in. There have been problems with the wix and napa filters, (not enough media, or paper media), these will result in a no oil pressure reading. AC-Delco and others make the right filter, it is an oddball, with mayonaise jar threads, on the bottom (external threads).

I think the correct AC-Delco # is like PF459, but don't rely on my memory! Look up any A/C gas farm tractor, in the following list, to find the right filter #: A/C- B,C,CA, D-10, D-12, D-14, D15(series 1), Early D-17, WD, WD-45( the last 3 tractors at least, the gas versions) motors will bolt right up to the D-grader. Also, I think a D-15(series2) you can rob the oil filter housing off of, to convert to a newer style filter(fram PH8A?). You might have to drill and tap the mounting holes bigger, to do this, again fault my memory...

 

[TumblingIQ]

Thanks for the reply and info. Do you happen to know if that steel spike was threaded in place or crimped to the oil filter housing. There is a oil filter housing on ebay with the spike for a WD tractor. Would that whole housing fit on my model D or could the spike be removed and put in my existing housing.

 

[DIYDAVE]

Yes, should be a bolt on thing. You will need a cork gasket(1/8" or slightly thinner) to go behind the housing, and don't over-tprque the bolts, its a pot metal housing that will bend and crack easily, or crush the cork gasket and make it leak. The spike, itself is just a tight fit into the hole in the housing...