Motor-Grading Techniques

[Randy Krieg]

Absolutely! I think it’s a little easier on the smaller machines and much easier with the standard length moldboard; 12 foot in your case. The best way to do this is go out by yourself and pratice this. Years ago I thought about it for a long time before I tried it. I went out to the machine on a Sunday all alone and tried it. I got in and out of the cab several times looking at the clearance in areas that I simply could not see from a seated position. You can’t see that front tire from in the cab, the DCM is totally blocking your view when it's rolling up beside the machine. When I had the DCM in the proper position to clear I would get back in the cab and look at the angle of certain components and get some delta points to line up on. You also can’t see the end of the moldboard that’s going under the step and frame no matter how far you lean, but if know what the angles look like from in the cab you’ll know right where the end of the moldboard is at even though you can’t see it. Provide you have set everything up right at the start, anchor in the proper bolt holes, sideshifted all the way etc. etc. If you’ve missed setting up just one step wrong you’ll tear something up. Copy and paste my previous thread and follow it, you can’t go wrong. Just be sure to get in and out of the cab every few inches of movement and check clearances. Then get back in the seat and look at the angles and position. Everyone that watches me do this now shakes their head, but I’ve done it thousands of times over the years, I do it nearly every night when I park the machine just so we can clean and grease the front circle teeth. It’s like anything we do with a motor grader, the more we do it the better we get.

Be sure your hose tray is not bent up or the arms will hang up on the circle pinion when it’s at about 170 degrees, this is really important on the 16G,H & M because they have a lower bearing support casting, which is under the pinion. If the machine has slope control or automatics you have to be sure there is enough slack in the cable or you’ll tear it in half!!!!!
Regards, Randy

 

[Madcanadian]

The only time I back drag is when coming up to a cattle guard or a bridge deck. That way an operator does not fill in the guard nor contaminate any water ways. In BC we do not dare get even a pebble into a stream, creek, or river.

 

[Grouser]

Absolutely! I think it’s a little easier on the smaller machines and much easier with the standard length moldboard; 12 foot in your case. The best way to do this is go out by yourself and pratice this. Years ago I thought about it for a long time before I tried it. I went out to the machine on a Sunday all alone and tried it. I got in and out of the cab several times looking at the clearance in areas that I simply could not see from a seated position. You can’t see that front tire from in the cab, the DCM is totally blocking your view when it's rolling up beside the machine. When I had the DCM in the proper position to clear I would get back in the cab and look at the angle of certain components and get some delta points to line up on. You also can’t see the end of the moldboard that’s going under the step and frame no matter how far you lean, but if know what the angles look like from in the cab you’ll know right where the end of the moldboard is at even though you can’t see it. Provide you have set everything up right at the start, anchor in the proper bolt holes, sideshifted all the way etc. etc. If you’ve missed setting up just one step wrong you’ll tear something up. Copy and paste my previous thread and follow it, you can’t go wrong. Just be sure to get in and out of the cab every few inches of movement and check clearances. Then get back in the seat and look at the angles and position. Everyone that watches me do this now shakes their head, but I’ve done it thousands of times over the years, I do it nearly every night when I park the machine just so we can clean and grease the front circle teeth. It’s like anything we do with a motor grader, the more we do it the better we get.

Be sure your hose tray is not bent up or the arms will hang up on the circle pinion when it’s at about 170 degrees, this is really important on the 16G,H & M because they have a lower bearing support casting, which is under the pinion. If the machine has slope control or automatics you have to be sure there is enough slack in the cable or you’ll tear it in half!!!!!
Regards, Randy

I have been on swimming pool digging duty lately so have yet to give it a go. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process.

 

[JonesBros]

I'm not sure how everybody else changes blades but that is exactly how we change blades on our 12G's except we don't rotate the blade around. Shift the center pin over to the far right and flip the moldboard in the air over the front tire except w/ the nuts facing up.

A 12" moldboard will tuck very nicely between the frame and front tires allowing it to be almost spun around w/out any major adjustments.

Man you got to love a grader!

 

[GPSGrader]

AH Yes! The ULTIMATE machine. Heavy rain is keeping me off my grader today - next best thing is to read about them!

Mr. Krieg, your contributions here are greatly appreciated. I share your passion and admire your accomplishments. Thank you.

 

[tippatone]

This thread is great! I sure know where to come for advise when I get started in Wash. State for my apprenticeship to become a motor grader operator. Yes sir, can't wait to get out of GA and into the 612/302 Region Training Program in Ellensburg. Up until a few days ago I was thinking that a motor grader was a simple thing to master, NOT!!, but by the help of God and you great group of guys I will be good if not great in a year or so. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress. Can't forget to thank Finish Blademan for steering me in the right direction.

 

[tripper_174]

Great series, I'm enjoying all the posts here. For what it's worth here is a tip that I have. When putting in base on a street, parking lot, etc., don't overwork it. Get it in place and to grade as quickly as possible with the least effort and fewest moves. Overworking it dries out the material and segregates it and wastes time and energy. I jokingly call it lazy operation but actually it is smart. I've seen plenty of guys move the material back and forth, kind of looking busy but not accomplishing much.

I'll try to remember over time the hints that I learned over the years and pass them on as well as trying to absorb the great hints here.

Back dragging is a godsend and wonderful time saver. I do it all the time with one exception. They simply do not allow it in mines as the tall foreheads there think it is too hard on equipment (in muck it probably is) as well as unsafe.

 

[dozerdave]

Hi Randy,

Super pictures and good information. I also had the pleasure of breaking in 2 of my sons on equipment. One of them made the best Gradall operator I ever had. The other one liked the mechanical end and wound up as a master mechanic for a crane rental company. Maybe that's because I had a good shop where the kids and their friends could work on their jeeps and 4X4's.

 

[tippatone]

Hi Randy,

Super pictures and good information. I also had the pleasure of breaking in 2 of my sons on equipment. One of them made the best Gradall operator I ever had. The other one liked the mechanical end and wound up as a master mechanic for a crane rental company. Maybe that's because I had a good shop where the kids and their friends could work on their jeeps and 4X4's.

Why I gotta have the dad that wants to pass me a welding torch and a visor? LOL.

 

[MadMax]

JonesBros,
I've been changing my blades the same way for years and I'm running a 2' extention on a 14' moldboard (16' total). Sure beats the back braking squating on your knees method.

Been keeping an eye on Randy's techniques ands attention to detail for (quite) a few years now. It's always nice learning a few new things and knowing you're not the only "nut on the tree" when it comes to experimenting and discovering what these wonderful machines can and will actually do.

Been awhile Randy. Thought you might be stuck in the snow... ;o)

 

[old school]

Back drag ,heck, im lucky to go in forward propel with she old huber warco 4 d let alone bassackwards with the old girl.

 

[Grader4me]

Back drag ,heck, im lucky to go in forward propel with she old huber warco 4 d let alone bassackwards with the old girl.

Lol! yup..ya do well just to stay in the seat with one of them! Welcome to HEF old school :drinkup

 

[Aardvark]

practice

practice makes perfect

 

[tripper_174]

Where are all the grader operators? Must be the hardest working bunch in the Forum as there aren't many postings going up here! Looking forward to new tips and pointers here. Sat on my first grader about 45 years ago and learning new things about them every day.

 

[Dwan Hall]

I think it is more " ware the new operators at that want to learn?" They ask questions and I bet someone will answer.
I read and try (if I get a chance) everything that is posted here but find someone has to ask a question before he will get an answer.

 

[tripper_174]

I should clarify Dwan..I meant in the whole grader forum.

 

[Grader4me]

I should clarify Dwan..I meant in the whole grader forum.

Hi tripper 174, I agree the grader section has been a little slow lately. As Dwan said there hasn't been to many questions asked lately, so it's hard to pick topics in which to discuss.
This is a great resource for new ...and experienced operators as well, to share and learn. Anyone of us will jump right in, willing to help and answer questions when we can.
If you can think of a good grader topic to discuss please feel free to post away

 

[#12Caterpillar]

Good stuff Randy Wish someone had told me how to turn the board around like that years ago. I knew it could be done so I got on a 140H one day out behind one of the stock piles at a pit we were working in and tought myself to turn the board around and get it out from under the machine. After some hours the finished process looks a lot like yours. As a heavy equipment mechanic changing the cutting edges was a lot easer with the board out on the side flat so you could get to everything without bending over busting your back. Also it was a fun trick to leave the circle backwards for the operator when he came back as half of our operaters did not know how to turn the circle all the way around.

 

[grandpa]

Here in minnesota we have alot of trees that grow tight to the driving lane. Some also tend to lean onto the road or have branches that overreach the road and if left alone raise havoc with my lights and mirrors. What i do is pull up to the tree with my blade straight , put the blade as high as it will go, then slowly sidesift into the tree and actually lean the tree the other was so it dont interfere with my maintence of the road. If your real careful the mark on the tree wont even be noticable.
Another thing i do is run smooth tires on my steering axle in summer for laying base. When your base is laid to grade I then articulate to allow the front tire to run on the out side of the base thus producing a finished product that looks like it was put in with a paver and a compactor!








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[RonG]

You're making me smile grandpa.....at 68 years old I can smile if I want to.Ron G