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Motor-Grading Techniques

Danial Doherty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
94
Location
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Remember guys the circle has teeth 360 degrees. Those back teeth aren’t for looks, they’re made to be used. The practice of finishing a cul-de-sac in reverse or maybe even getting it close (my choice) makes great sense if you’re not running an all wheel drive machine. The forces created by the moldboard angle and laterally moving material over comes the front tires traction coefficient many times. It only takes about 60 seconds to turn it around. I can turn our 16 foot moldboard on our 14H around in about 70 seconds, just over a minute. That time includes the time spent pulling the pin and repositioning the linkbar. I always do it on the right side, I put the pin in the far right hole, swing the drawbar, circle and moldboard up beside the machine with the moldboard facing straight up at the sky, circle the moldboard clockwise and side-shift the left end out over the top of the right front tire completely retracting the cylinder (H Series), then retract the left lift cylinder, extend the right lift cylinder, keep rotating clockwise and retracting the centershift cylinder at the same time. It’s all simultaneous motion. This brings the right end of the moldboard (soon to become the left) under the S bend in the main frame while the left end (soon to become the right) is rolling right down behind and beside the right front tire. As soon as I get the moldboard back under the main frame I reposition the linkage if necessary. If the machine is equipped with grade/slope control then the cable to the rotation sensor has to be specially routed or it will get torn right in half. Every machine I operate I take the time to reroute the cable so that it’s possible to turn the circle and moldboard around. The picture below shows the way I generally park the machine at night; circle and moldboard facing back with the tires off the ground. This position exposes the front circle drive teeth so we can apply grease every day (like the book says). These are the teeth that are being used 99% of the time we’re working. Every couple days I scrap off the old dirty grease using a drywall spatula and every couple weeks I wash the teeth with solvent. This positioning also gets the weight off the tires at night. Don’t want any flat spots in the tires come morning. Many times we get in and have to start finishing to hubs first thing in the morning. In the last training class I taught I made it manditory to graduate. They had to be able to proficiently reposition the linkage, clean the top of the moldboard using the linkage, pull a back slope and park the machine at night with the moldboard facing back.

In the other pictures, which are dark, but if you look closely you can see the moldboard is turned around on the 16M. This works great for squeegeeing the water on top of the ice and filling the small holes and accelerating the freeze time. You can rub the ice (snow & water mixture) and not cut into it. Turning the moldboard around on this 16M with a 2 foot extension requires a little more caution and it helps if you run the front tires up on a pile, this makes it easier to swing the moldboard extension under the steps. It would be real easy to tear the steps right off the machine if you don’t know what you’re doing. That applies to any grader not just the 16M.

I also turn the moldboard around for finishing away from bridge abutments and will explain this more in detail later. I turn it around and articulate for cleaning some wet ditches also. Like I said they put those teeth there for a reason.

I will photograph this entire procedure step by step when I get time and post it. I will also add more to this thread in general, but right now I have to get ready to travel again.

This part is for all you younger guys that like adventure; I’m actually on my two weeks R&R from the Chevron project right now, but got a phone call yesterday morning. We were just awarded a hazardous cleanup project off the Northern coast of Alaska. It’s an old “Defense Early Warning” radar site. So I have to go get baseline blood work done today then spend the next 4 days in training, yeap right through the weekend so that we can be ready to fly back to Deadhorse the first of next week. We are going to haul the material 50 miles across the sea ice back to Prudhoe Bay where it will be put in special containment. I look at this as another great adventure, which I get to be a part of and the pay is fantastic (so is the food). They don’t call me to go on these details because they like the way I look or the things I say, they call me for one reason and one reason only; because I can operate a motor grader. My father told me over 30 years ago while I was riding in a grader with him and watching his every move, “Get good on one of these son and you will never have to look for a job”. That statement has rung true so many times in my life that I’ve lost count. It’s a great career! Don’t ever pass up the chance to get on one.

Regards, Randy

wow... very interesting, i have never hear or seen this done before. I will be giving it a try thats for sure.

I have a question about moving the moldboard over. I always have trouble getting the pin to come out and getting everything to move over, and i think its beacuse i never have been shown the correct way to do it. Should it be such a task to get it to come out? or is it a fairly easy process?? is there a position that the moldboard should be in to make it easy?? To some this may seem like a simple process to some.. but it takes me a LONG time to get it right.
 

Grader4me

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
1,792
Location
New Brunswick, Canada
All good info. I can see turning the moldboard in certain situations such as Randy described, as it's really no big task to turn it. But..for the jobs that I used to do it would just waste to much time.

I have a question about moving the moldboard over. I always have trouble getting the pin to come out and getting everything to move over, and i think its beacuse i never have been shown the correct way to do it. Should it be such a task to get it to come out? or is it a fairly easy process?? is there a position that the moldboard should be in to make it easy?? To some this may seem like a simple process to some.. but it takes me a LONG time to get it right.

The way that I do it is side shift the circle all the way to the right, lower the blade, unlock the pin, apply a little pressure to the right side, let up a bit and keep doing this until the pin retracts. If you don't use this much the pin comes out hard. After the pin retracts..well, Randy sumed it up.

I turn it around and articulate for cleaning some wet ditches also
.

Never tried that before. Be interested in some pictures.
 

plowking740

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
207
Location
Calgary
Occupation
Equipment operator
Thank you very much for the information Randy. This is the kind of info that some operators never think of, and might never be needed, but its handy to know. I for one will try turning the blade next i do a cul-de-sac, instead of back dragging, just to try it to say I have.


I guess this is one instance when you can teach an old ( sort of) dog new tricks.
 

OCR

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
1,195
Location
Montana
Occupation
Rancher/Farmer, Wildland Fire Fighter, State snowp
Motor-Grading Techniques:

wow... very interesting, i have never hear or seen this done before. I will be giving it a try thats for sure.

Kinda like a computer... I probably only use about 1/10 of it's capablities...
simply because I don't know, or nobody has shown me how.

Tips and tricks... that's what it's all about... and that's how you learn... ;)


OCR... :)
 

JimBruce42

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 15, 2006
Messages
965
Location
Pennsylvania
Occupation
operator
Whenever the words "motor grader" and "Randy Krieg" cross I always know we are in for an amazing set of photos showing that you really can do anything with a grader.:notworthy:notworthy:notworthy Thanks again for sharing Randy... I've completely lost track in this topic, but can you post the photos where you used the scarifier tooth to hold the front linkage up while you were grading the slope... I think?:beatsme
 

Randy Krieg

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
260
Location
Arizona
Occupation
Test Pilot/Operator @ Caterpillar's Tucson Proving
Ripper Tooth in the Frt Axle

Mr Bruce
I'm glad you enjoyed the post. I keep no secrets. I like to pass on what I've learned, somethings work and some don't. I'll never stop trying new ideas, that's what makes it fun. ;)

You can't post the same picture twice on this forum. It's in "Teaching the tricks of Grading"
Randy
 
Last edited:

Randy Krieg

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
260
Location
Arizona
Occupation
Test Pilot/Operator @ Caterpillar's Tucson Proving
Grader4me

It sure looks like the moldboard is facing back in your Avator? I think you’re holding out on us here? I know the picture is small and a little hard to see, but I thought that was a funny coincidence.:)
Regards, Randy
 

Sling Blade

New Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
2
Location
Colorado
Occupation
Operating Engineer
Great Tips!

Remember guys the circle has teeth 360 degrees. Those back teeth aren’t for looks, they’re made to be used. The practice of finishing a cul-de-sac in reverse or maybe even getting it close (my choice) makes great sense if you’re not running an all wheel drive machine. The forces created by the moldboard angle and laterally moving material over comes the front tires traction coefficient many times. It only takes about 60 seconds to turn it around. I can turn our 16 foot moldboard on our 14H around in about 70 seconds, just over a minute. That time includes the time spent pulling the pin and repositioning the linkbar. I always do it on the right side, I put the pin in the far right hole, swing the drawbar, circle and moldboard up beside the machine with the moldboard facing straight up at the sky, circle the moldboard clockwise and side-shift the left end out over the top of the right front tire completely retracting the cylinder (H Series), then retract the left lift cylinder, extend the right lift cylinder, keep rotating clockwise and retracting the centershift cylinder at the same time. It’s all simultaneous motion. This brings the right end of the moldboard (soon to become the left) under the S bend in the main frame while the left end (soon to become the right) is rolling right down behind and beside the right front tire. As soon as I get the moldboard back under the main frame I reposition the linkage if necessary. If the machine is equipped with grade/slope control then the cable to the rotation sensor has to be specially routed or it will get torn right in half. Every machine I operate I take the time to reroute the cable so that it’s possible to turn the circle and moldboard around. The picture below shows the way I generally park the machine at night; circle and moldboard facing back with the tires off the ground. This position exposes the front circle drive teeth so we can apply grease every day (like the book says). These are the teeth that are being used 99% of the time we’re working. Every couple days I scrap off the old dirty grease using a drywall spatula and every couple weeks I wash the teeth with solvent. This positioning also gets the weight off the tires at night. Don’t want any flat spots in the tires come morning. Many times we get in and have to start finishing to hubs first thing in the morning. In the last training class I taught I made it manditory to graduate. They had to be able to proficiently reposition the linkage, clean the top of the moldboard using the linkage, pull a back slope and park the machine at night with the moldboard facing back.

In the other pictures, which are dark, but if you look closely you can see the moldboard is turned around on the 16M. This works great for squeegeeing the water on top of the ice and filling the small holes and accelerating the freeze time. You can rub the ice (snow & water mixture) and not cut into it. Turning the moldboard around on this 16M with a 2 foot extension requires a little more caution and it helps if you run the front tires up on a pile, this makes it easier to swing the moldboard extension under the steps. It would be real easy to tear the steps right off the machine if you don’t know what you’re doing. That applies to any grader not just the 16M.

I also turn the moldboard around for finishing away from bridge abutments and will explain this more in detail later. I turn it around and articulate for cleaning some wet ditches also. Like I said they put those teeth there for a reason.

I will photograph this entire procedure step by step when I get time and post it. I will also add more to this thread in general, but right now I have to get ready to travel again.

This part is for all you younger guys that like adventure; I’m actually on my two weeks R&R from the Chevron project right now, but got a phone call yesterday morning. We were just awarded a hazardous cleanup project off the Northern coast of Alaska. It’s an old “Defense Early Warning” radar site. So I have to go get baseline blood work done today then spend the next 4 days in training, yeap right through the weekend so that we can be ready to fly back to Deadhorse the first of next week. We are going to haul the material 50 miles across the sea ice back to Prudhoe Bay where it will be put in special containment. I look at this as another great adventure, which I get to be a part of and the pay is fantastic (so is the food). They don’t call me to go on these details because they like the way I look or the things I say, they call me for one reason and one reason only; because I can operate a motor grader. My father told me over 30 years ago while I was riding in a grader with him and watching his every move, “Get good on one of these son and you will never have to look for a job”. That statement has rung true so many times in my life that I’ve lost count. It’s a great career! Don’t ever pass up the chance to get on one.

Regards, Randy


Randy ... Thanks for taking the time to share some great tips! :notworthy I work for a County Government (Road & Bridge Dept.) on the western slope of Colorado. We do a lot of county road maintenance as well as snow plowing, and would love to hear more tips and tricks of the trade. I'm always willing to learn!

Ray
 

CEwriter

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
391
Location
St. Louis, MO
Occupation
journalist
This is a great site and I recommend it to every motor-grader operator.

http://articles.directorym.net/Using_All_of_a_Motor_Graders_Features-a941620.html

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I've got a ton of time and effort invested in creating some illustrations that I hope are pretty useful to go with that very story. If you go to the original source:

Use All of a Motor Grader’s Features to Build Roads Better

you can have a look at 'em, and let me know what you think.

Hope this helps,

Larry
 

MadMax

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2009
Messages
15
Location
Rural NE Iowa
Occupation
Motorgrader Operator
I also do quite a bit of back dragging. Some like my friend Randy Krieg,some just plain back dragging depending on road conditions and what I'm doing. I caught onto reversing the blade years ago when our county switched to carbide tipped blades.
 

evan b

New Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2009
Messages
1
Location
Okanogan County, Washington USA
Occupation
Public Works Opperator
Randy ... Thanks for taking the time to share some great tips! :notworthy I work for a County Government (Road & Bridge Dept.) on the western slope of Colorado. We do a lot of county road maintenance as well as snow plowing, and would love to hear more tips and tricks of the trade. I'm always willing to learn!

Ray

That's cool to read. Screwing around yesterday and turned the blade around and thought how this would be useful. Got ap in now for a Mechanics job, but if it don't work out I look forward to getting more tips. You can run grader for years and always learn something new. I will tell my dad about doing that.
 

140G

Active Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
26
Location
Greece
The only problem I have with motor-graders is that finding where grade from the cab and knowing if I am on it. Any tips on that? - I thing after some time you should start feeling the blade, the same way you feel the wheels of the car you are driving. Thought you cant see them you know exactly where they run.
 

140G

Active Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
26
Location
Greece
To me the difficult part of the job is calculating the exact amount of material that is needed and empty it at the right place. Once you succeed that, the rest of the job is eazy .
 

Randy Krieg

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
260
Location
Arizona
Occupation
Test Pilot/Operator @ Caterpillar's Tucson Proving
Reversing the Moldboard Pictures

I'm glad you guys found it informative. I will get the pictures taken and posted when I get time. Right now I'm on a horse of a different color and racing to beat spring thaw. We have to have this cleanup completed before the sea ice goes out in about 3-4 weeks. We are hauling everything 50 miles across the Arctic Ocean to get it in and out of here. My crew even hauled this EX350; 50 miles across the Arctic ice to get it here.:cool2
Regards, Randy
 

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RonG

Charter Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2003
Messages
1,833
Location
Meriden ct
Occupation
heavy equipment operator
That is funny.Imagine moving an excavator with no consideration for overhead clearance.
They probably do that to make it easier to find after it drops through the ice.Just kidding Randy...........thanks for the great pics.Anything to do with construction equipment in Alaska intrigues me.Ron G
 
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