Mitsubishi BD2G Questions

[JakeATF]

Just got off the phone with my dad. He got it back together. He and his friend gave it the old test drive and were both shocked! He said when you make a hard turn either direction it will spin the other track! He said it will thump you in the seat of the pants now. It has plenty of power, much more than before. Steering is more precise and solid.

He is very happy. His parts store there stocks all the filters for these tractors as there are a bunch of them in that area. He lives in Myrtle MO. Its near the Arkansas line.
Thanks again for all the help.

 

[JakeATF]

After more talk with my Dad, he said that the first sign of the strainer or filter getting clogged is that the steering will get less precises and will require more effort. When the filters are fresh and clean the steering is strong and easy to work.

They said the power of the tractor was increased a lot. It would push a great deal more dirt and push down much larger trees than before.

He said to pass along that if your tractor seems weak or is getting harder to steer, the strainer is getting clogged. He also said that the belly pan is a royal pain to get back on if it has gotten tweaked. He said again to thank all of you for your assistance.

Everyone in his circle of friends has came around and tried out the dozer since the oil change and have all been very surprised. People want to rent it now that has 'grown up' LoL.

Thanks to all of you.

 

[bubbagoat]

Glad to hear it is doing fine. They are good tough little machines. We used to live in the Farmington Arkansas area, almost the other side of the state. We really liked living there.

 

[katan]

Hy, can anyone help me with a copy of a manufacturer's declaration of conformity as well as of a technical maintenance manual for this Mitsubishi bd2g type.

Thank you

 

[firetrack]

Contact Kev or Louise at www.cqdozer.com.au as they will have all your answers, manuals and parts redilly available. They send stuff overseas all the time.

 

[jeremyhart72]

Jake, can you get me a number for the supplier your dad uses. I have to get mine from the only mitsu supplier I know of. They are in washington. And they are not cheap at all, but they have what I need. Hoping I could save a few bucks on my filters. Thanks for the help

 

[HarleyPhil]

I also just got a BD2G and I might have to look in Tacoma for a manual unless someone know if there is a place to get one close to Lynnwood Wa. I was told there is a small fuel filter under the left floor board. I herd they clog a lot and it acts like it is time now. Dose anyone know the Part numbers for both fuel filters. The one in the engine compartment next to the primer pump is in Japanese??? I guess the other one is in that housing under the left floor pan with the wires going to it. It doesn't look big enough to be a fuel pump. Is it a fuel heater maybe??? I know there is a filter in it because there was a old one next to it. Any help would be gerat.

Phil

 

[darinray]

Hello Phil,

I don't think any one is closer to you for the manuals than Rhine in Tacoma. The small filter I buy from Rhine myself and do keep a couple on the shelf here. That is a fuel pump under the left floor board where the little filter is. You shoudl actually hear it pumping when you turn the key on OR it may be so dirty that it can pump so you may have to clean it. The fuel filter by the primer pump is a Napa 3394 or you can just get that from Rhine too. Let us know how you make out.

Darin

 

[Phatboy]

Shell / Rotella heavy duty tractor fluid

I am trying to find and use commonly available fluids for my BD2G and CASE 580-L. Has anyone used the Shell/Rotella Heavy Duty Universal tractor fluid available at Wallmart? If this will substitute where the 10w oil is called for in the manual that would be great. Thanks in advance for the thoughts and help!!

 

[swampdog]

The BD2 machines are great looking little dozers and do an excellent job in some applications. I briefly owned one, but it was not heavy enough or powerful enough to do the work I planned for it. When I discovered that it would not push over a six inch tree, it was time to look for something bigger.

One thing I noticed about my BD2 was that the cooling system appeared to have only straight water in it. In our climate we need antifreeze. The cooling system had a lot of rust in it, likely from running straight water.

 

[RJM59LP]

Parts numbers parts book

Hi Brent,
Those BD2G are a good little machine.
The problem with under the hood sounds like a cooling issue...get any auto mechanic or a handy friend to check it out.Even in the hot sun,it should run cool enough to work properly.Is the radiator blocked?
I assume it's a manual gearbox machine ,as opposed to direct Powershift,fitted with 6 way PAT blade.
Maybe you have some blade pin wear or hydraulic seal wear in your blade.
The problems with the fuel gauges is common to BD2G machines....Fuel & Hour
meters are often found to be bad (typical electronic rubbish) & the gauge set costs hundreds to replace.I tend to add my own normal gauges ,as replacing the electro-crap will only fix the problem until it fails again ....which will happen.
The lights are also a problem to fix ,as rust is often a problem.I tend to buy a set of 12V headlights from the auto shop & put 24Volt globes in them (if suitable)....or just buy 24V ,but they are expensive.

Pyramid plates are made for swamp work,& these machines in Japan are used in snow & mud applications.They wear quickly on dirt work,as they are under more stress in non-soft conditions....plus they don't dig in well for excavating work.
If you're going to keep the machine,try to put a small set of scarifiers on it,to rip the ground you need to dig....it will extend the life of your machine a lot,& make your job easier.
Check & replace all oils ...for the sake of starting out fresh & keeping records.
I can get parts & books....but Rhine Equipment in Tacoma is your nearby dealer.The Operator manual has the lube charts & maint. tips you need.
Quote your Serial number to get the right books.

Good luck & contact me if I can help further.
Jim

Hi, I was reading your post I just bought a BD2G in really nice shape. One cylinder lift was leaking cost 300 for a shop to repair it. Seals for my Case 580 are 20 bucks per cylinder. Any ideas on where to get seals , parts book ( have service book) parts numbers? Thanks Richie

 

[jeremyhart72]

Rhine Equipt is where I got all my manuals. They can get all the parts for you also. I need some advice on my dozer. I changed the steering clutches, drum and brake bands last year. Dozer steers great, but I have had an intermittent problem with it. While going forward, the nine will bog down. If I leave it. It will cut ally die out. If I go into neutral, the motor will rev back up o whatever RPM I was at. It does it pushing, and even just moving the dozer. But only going forward in all 3 gears. It never does it in reverse. At first I thought it was dirty fuel filter. Changed that, nd no difference. It doesn't do it constantly. But enough to have me aggravated. I cleaned the hydraulic screen under the belly pan. Same thing. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[jeremyhart72]

Rhine Equipt is where I got all my manuals. They can get all the parts for you also. I need some advice on my dozer. I changed the steering clutches, drum and brake bands last year. Dozer steers great, but I have had an intermittent problem with it. While going forward, the nine will bog down. If I leave it. It will cut ally die out. If I go into neutral, the motor will rev back up o whatever RPM I was at. It does it pushing, and even just moving the dozer. But only going forward in all 3 gears. It never does it in reverse. At first I thought it was dirty fuel filter. Changed that, nd no difference. It doesn't do it constantly. But enough to have me aggravated. I cleaned the hydraulic screen under the belly pan. Same thing. Any guidance would be appreciated.

Update: got the problem solved. It was actually 2 problems. The filter in the small electric fuel pump under the left floorboard was gunked up with trash. The majority of the problem was that my left brake band was sticking engaged. I guess with the power loss and the band stuck. It was killing the dozer. Had to use a torch and heat the linkage arm to free it up. Running like a champ now. Hope this helps anyone else that might run across the same trouble.

 

[Bruce NSW Aus]

Guys I have tried to start a Facebook page for BD2 Series Dozers as well as don't get in here much https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mitsubishi-BD2-Series-Bulldozers/780115635363459

 

[hmc710]

Hey All,
Picked up a mid 90's BD2G in better than fair condition. Bushings are worn through to the pins and sprockets need changing but everything else is all there. The machine cranks right up (well it did....) and if pushed hard will overheat. Radiator has had straight water in it and has brown sludge in it so I need to flush it out. I put about half a gallon of antifreeze in but there is definitely not a lot of flow from what I can tell. When just taking it easy the machine does not get hot and I can put my hand on the top of the radiator and motor, but start pushing dirt and it warms up so I'll hold off on that. I cross referenced filters to Napa parts and was going to change the oil next time out. After pushing some brush and shutting the machine down, it did not crank up right away, it took about three long cranks before it fired. It fired and ran fine until I shut it back off. I went up today to warm it up to change the oil and it wouldn't start. I cleaned off the fuel filter and put the new Napa filter on. I pulled the side cover to use the fuel plunger to fill the new filter with fuel and it worked, but leaked diesel fuel. It also looked like the plunger housing might be leaking fuel a little. After priming the new filter I tried to start the dozer and it would not fire. Because the primer filled the fuel filter I am guessing the tank filter is ok? I loosened one of the injector lines to check for fuel and also check the 24v solenoid on the pump (fuel shut off? What ever it is it does not shut the machine down when de activated). I loosened one the front injector line and cranked the machine over and only got a minor amount of fuel from the line. I'll crack the lines at the injector pump and see if anything comes out of it tomorrow. maybe it got some air in it when I changed the filter or is sucking air from the worn plunger.
I am guessing the pump is gear driven, correct? Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
H

 

[hmc710]

Don't know if anyone is on this post but I found the starting problem. The fuel shut off solenoid started working again! The guy I got it from always put it in 3rd gear and stalled it out. I started hearing a "click"
one day and it was the solenoid. The reason it started after the "long crank" is that it times out by itself. Now when I put the key in H mode for 30 seconds the solenoid with come on, release, and with a turn of the key it cranks right up.
Got oil and fuel filters changed and not get a bit of smoke from the exhaust. Changed tans fluid and have been running the machine. The hydraulics work but I can hear fluid past the relief a lot and the blades moves slow. Other times the blade lifts fine. I've greased all the fittings with no change. I don't know why I didn't get hyd fluid and change that out.
Ran the machine again since the first part of this post and the blade dug in and I couldn't lift it out of the dirt. Now I don't get any movement from the blade at all. I hope its not a pump issue but will start looking. Got 5gal of 10wt oil to change out the hyd and start looking at the movement issue I hope.

 

[hmc710]

Weather warmed up a bit and went after the hydraulic fluid change. Started the machine and I could tell the blade wanted to lift so I gave it more throttle and the blade slowly lifted. I moved the blade to get the most fluid out of the cylinders and found that a 3/4 drive breaker bar would fit the drain plug on the hyd tank. Drained about the old fluid out, cracked the lines and drained them, and did a re-fill. Blade still moves slow and still had some of the residual fluid in there. I'll run this fluid for a bit and change it and the filter out again. Looking over the hydraulics the blade lift cylinder on the left side was bent over restricting flow. Must have caught a log or large branch on it. Will get it off and measured for replacement and hopefully that is the cause of my slow blade.
Moved some dirt the other day getting spot for the new house leveled out. Sure was glad for all the rain to soften this clay up! Greased everything up and noticed the bottom blade mount is busted up pretty good and the right side blade arm bolts are "loose". I could see the washers weren't tight before and have tried to tighten these bolts but they are not moving. I haven't put heat on it yet. Now either the bolts have backed out some more or stretched. Either way I need to get them taken care off. I've seen on other posts the Mitsi bolts are not the best. Sprockets are wore, pins / bushings shot, right side idlers have some play, blade mounts need rebuild, and the finals plugs are stripped and can't get them out. Other than that, machine runs great. Been tracking down parts to do an under carriage rebuild and now I have to add the blade to it.

 

[darinray]

Get a hold of me sometime.. I do have a parts machine we could rob parts off of. Best thing to do is make a list and then email me it and I'll see what I can offer you. After reading your posts here just now it sounds like a project dozer for sure. Once you get her nailed down you will love the machine.

 

[hmc710]

Will do, thanks.
Yes, even "well used" it does a great job.

 

[blueridge]

Can anyone tell me how to determine the age of a BD2F, 1B501281? It is said it is a 2012?